The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:02 pm
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Location: Nr Kenilworth
For me, it would be best on the front ,rear or front wheel drive. I just think its all about where you would like to aim. Only prob with FWD and bad rears is oversteer on lift off, which can be corrected with full power (as opposed to lifting off with rwd). I just get used to what im driving i suppose as many do here too. Young uns may struggle if the electronics dont do it for them.

Tony

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 4:31 pm 
we now have 175/70VR13 Cinturato CN 36

https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/pirell ... -cn36.html

In stock


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Better still to have good tyres all round, no debate then!

I have heard all manner of suggestions about where it's best to put NEW tyres, advice has varied over the years, due largely I think to the change from mostly RWD to mostly FWD.

TBH, I mostly change tyres when they need changing, will change a single tyre (shock horror), am not overly concerned about matching makes or tread patterns either. I'm still here - and so are various nuns and kittens I have encountered! Though I AM slightly more picky about my high performance cars than I am with my "dailys"

I think Rob has a good point about driver skill levels though. And car design! Folk like me who learned to drive in RWD cars without PAS, PAB, ABS, safety cells, airbags and mostly without synchromesh (from wear rather than original absence - i'm not THAT old!) all learned to drive "by the seat of your pants" Old cars transmit far more feeling into the glutes whereas modern cars seem designed to isolate you from any sensation of what is going on under your wheels. Which doesn't make you a bad driver, it just makes it much harder to become a good one.

To Clifty, writing a car off due to hitting a patch of diesel is not down to the state of your tyres or which end you put the new ones on! it's due to hitting a patch of diesel!!!! I have done this myself, on a 90 degree left hander, I was only doing about 25 MPH but still described 3 graceful pirouettes before coming to a halt. No damage done, except to my nerves but only from pure fluke, I was just a passenger!

One final point, I was always advised to drive new tyres gently for 100 miles or so to "bed them in" Whether this has any basis in fact, I don't know, but I always find BRAND NEW tyres a little skittish to start with, so i've always done it!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:25 am 
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Hitting the diesel was rather unfortunate. but I seem to remember (but it all happened very fast) being on substantial opposite lock as the back end came out. Front didn't feel too bad.
This was an extreme case, but I still maintain that best tyres on the back is the way forward (as opposed to sideways) and is from my experience. Others may find it differently, I have no issues with that.
One thing that is of concern is the lack of moving spare tyres about on a car. These days my spit often carries a skinny 135 tyre, basically something to get me home. Not so if on the way to a trackday, where a puncture on would put an end to expensive tracktime, so I pinch a decent wheel/tyre off another car. However, years ago advice was to rotate tyres etc, which seems sensible. And I am about to buy 2 new tyres for our daily, and at 27k I will pop them on the back, and the 5mm conti's will go on the front. Car is now 3 years old, so I want to get them worn. In fact, this may be part of the "new" advice. Rear tyres on a FWD car may last 60k, which could be 10 years with some drivers. So new on the back, and the rears onto the front, could help matters in terms of tyre age?

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Clive Senior
Brighton


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:13 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2016 11:08 am
Posts: 691
Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
I own a BMW Z3 and the front tyres are a different size from the rears, so rotation cannot be done, especially with tyres that are marked with a direction of rotation. I once had an MGF with a similar tyre size difference front to rear.

Regarding mixing brands across an axle, the Z3 and the MGF are both horribly sensitive to having unmatched tyres on one axle and the driving experience is ruined.

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Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Car is now 3 years old, so I want to get them worn. In fact, this may be part of the "new" advice. Rear tyres on a FWD car may last 60k, which could be 10 years with some drivers. So new on the back, and the rears onto the front, could help matters in terms of tyre age?
I've just replaced both rear tyres on SWMBO's Picasso. It's 11 years old and has covered only a measly 65k miles. The factory original rear (Michelin) tyres still had the best part of 3mm tread left but the point where the sidewall joins to the tread plies was cracking and splitting something awful - so they had to go! I suppose I should really change the spare too, seeing as that's also a factory original, but a) it's on a steel wheel so will never be used, except in extremis and for short periods and b) so far, it's NEVER even been on the road! And it really grates to change out a 7mm treaded tyre, just cos it's too old! I'm kinda hoping that, since it's spent all it's life under the boot floor, the UV won't have got to it!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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