Cheers for the reply and info. I've already ordered the rad, but no yet received so at least I now know whats going to land on my doorstep. Did you use the standard switch or fit a a variable/adjustable switch? I've seen revotec do a variable one that threads in. So maybe I can match the threads and install one there rather than use a probe or hose link.
I'll try and locate your resto thread and take a look at the install.
I could still do with knowing what the ideal running temp is for both the 1850 and TR7 2L engines if anyone has the answers. From searching it sounds like the 1850 should be well in the 80's, so guessing I should go for the higher temp switch if I dont go variable. It would be the cheapest route.
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Can't answer the question regarding the temp but having purchased one of these rads I can confirm you get a rad, fan and switch. If you want wires, relays, plugs or a variable pot then you need to buy all the gubbins yourself. It's not especially difficult to fit but you'll need to look at some instructions as the unit won't come with any.
I purchased my components from 12 volt planet online and spent a while planning my circuits and my routing to leave me with a nice job. There's some pics on my resto thread somewhere.
To be fair you probably don't need an aluminium rad for either engine. The standard 1850 one is quite poor, even a standard Sprint one is better as it has an extra row and is more tightly packed. But that said an ally rad of this design is inherently more efficient than either, though don't forget copper/brass is actually a better conductor of heat from the engine that aluminium. Where the aluminium wins is better transfer to the air through a different design of core, plus it weighs much less.