The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Good morning all, hope you're all well!

Had some starting issues this morning on my 1850. Yesterday daytime I drove home no issues. This morning, engine was turning well (4-5 turn sounds per second?), occasionally firing every few turns on one or two cylinders. I took the air filter off & there was fuel coming into the carbs, and dashpots had oil in them. Plugs smelt of fuel and were a good colour. Checked the cap for condensation, Replaced the condenser and coil, no change. Cleaned the main earth cable, cleaned the starter motor connections, checked LT cable connections, tightened the battery back up and she started, but under much protest, so I'm not convinced I improved anything. I didn't check the timing (I was in a bit of a rush once she got going!), but otherwise haven't got any ideas really? Went down the shops, started fine when warmer, but it's not cold today really?

Also, my starter motor sometimes doesn't work - I turn the key and get a sound similar to a hairdryer, and the engine won't turn. A few extra tries always gets her to start. I've got a replacement starter motor the I picked up cheap a few years back in the loft, but I was wondering if it's more likely the solenoid based on the symptoms?

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HQentity (Kyle)

1975 TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850 in Honeysuckle (Nina) 2015-2020


"The harder the conflict, the more glorious the Triumph." - Thomas Paine

Check the points for pitting and make sure the gap is correct. Pitting indicates a failing condenser (the condenser is there to stop arcing across the points, so they last a bit longer) but as you have replaced it that just leaves the points. The plastic heel on the points wears down after a while and the gap closes up. (something I learned from Jonners when I had similar issues).

As for your starter, from your description it sounds like your starter motor is not engaging, so it could be on it's way out. It is possible to remove and replace using a long extension for your socket on the top bolt. My 1850 only had 2 bolts (I think that is normal, Sprint uses 3), the bottom one is easy to get at but the top one is right below the exhaust so it's toasted fingers if the engine is still hot (usually was hot after driving the car onto ramps).

You can clean the points with a folded piece of emery paper by dragging it through the points when fully closed, the idea behind that is to keep the faces parallel to each other - or better still get new ones.

Hi Kyle, yes, I'd be inclined to agree with your diagnosis of the solenoid being faulty for both problems.
See the relevant part of the wiring diagram herewith. The reason the starter motor sounds like a hair-dryer is that it is running, but the heavy duty contacts at the back of the solenoid are not making contact or are burned out or really old and dirty and need cleaning. So what happens is that the current flows from the battery through the relay ( I seem to remember you have one of those fitted) and through the pull-in coil of the motor and then through the motor armature which starts to rotate. But since the heavy duty contacts are not closing the solenoid is not pulling the gear into mesh and the starter does not run at full speed.
And the reason that starting is now difficult is that the switching contacts for the ignition ballast resistor are also not operating. These are also at the back of the solenoid. So a double dose of trouble with a common cause. The ballast resistor wire and contacts are the ones labelled WY btw.
HTH,
Tony.