The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum
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Sprint Alternator
http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=33897
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Author:  new to this [ Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Sprint Alternator

What size/amps is a sprint alternator ?

thanks Dave

Author:  SprintnSideways [ Sat Apr 28, 2018 8:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Alternator on early Sprints (in workshop manual for '75 - '76 model) is listed as Lucas 17ACR, nominal output 36Amps @ 12V.
Possible change for later years....

Author:  new to this [ Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Quote:
Alternator on early Sprints (in workshop manual for '75 - '76 model) is listed as Lucas 17ACR, nominal output 36Amps @ 12V.
Possible change for later years....
thanks Dave

Author:  new to this [ Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

thinking of using an up graded alternator,as planned upgrades include central locking electric Windows and may be heated windscreen,would I need to upgrade the wiring to the alternator ?

Dave

Author:  xvivalve [ Mon Apr 30, 2018 9:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

No, you can use the A127 unit from Maestro/Montego/Metro 65 amp plus and it even has the correct plug fitment on the back

Author:  new to this [ Tue May 01, 2018 7:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Quote:
No, you can use the A127 unit from Maestro/Montego/Metro 65 amp plus and it even has the correct plug fitment on the back
Alun

thanks Dave

Author:  SprintnSideways [ Sat May 05, 2018 1:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Quote:
thinking of using an up graded alternator,as planned upgrades include central locking electric Windows and may be heated windscreen,would I need to upgrade the wiring to the alternator ?

Dave
Hi Dave,
If you are still running the original wiring loom, then you should upgrade the wiring regardless of whether you are installing new kit or not - the old wiring was crap and underspecified when it was installed, and i'm pretty sure that old insulation doesn't improve like old wine...While you're at it, get an autosparks to put in a proper fuse/relay system if you are going to do any serious upgrade works.

However, to address your actual question - adding central locking adds only a 'momentary' load which normally occurs when the car is not running, electric windows adds only a limited and intermittent load, and a heated windscreen only adds only a few Watts, so the alternator and alternator wiring upgrade is not theoretically necessary unless you are looking to add a high load which will be constant - like big driving lights, high-demand sound system, electric seats/heating/air-conditioning system or the like.

The principle is that the alternator runs the 'normal' running load such as radio, lights, vehicle electrical demands etc and recharges/float charges the battery while the car is running, and the battery provides the capacitance to store or discharge energy outside the 'normal' range, for instance to cover the power dip or surge when you turn your lights on or off. If you've added heaps of 'stuff' to the electrical/Electronic load, then you need to measure or calculate the demand on the alternator whilst the car is running and fully loaded (electrically) and compare that to the wire size to ensure the cable isn't overloaded to avoid the risk of fire in the wiring loom.
Is that too much for one post?

Author:  new to this [ Sat May 05, 2018 7:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Quote:
Quote:
thinking of using an up graded alternator,as planned upgrades include central locking electric Windows and may be heated windscreen,would I need to upgrade the wiring to the alternator ?

Dave
Hi Dave,
If you are still running the original wiring loom, then you should upgrade the wiring regardless of whether you are installing new kit or not - the old wiring was crap and underspecified when it was installed, and i'm pretty sure that old insulation doesn't improve like old wine...While you're at it, get an autosparks to put in a proper fuse/relay system if you are going to do any serious upgrade works.

However, to address your actual question - adding central locking adds only a 'momentary' load which normally occurs when the car is not running, electric windows adds only a limited and intermittent load, and a heated windscreen only adds only a few Watts, so the alternator and alternator wiring upgrade is not theoretically necessary unless you are looking to add a high load which will be constant - like big driving lights, high-demand sound system, electric seats/heating/air-conditioning system or the like.

The principle is that the alternator runs the 'normal' running load such as radio, lights, vehicle electrical demands etc and recharges/float charges the battery while the car is running, and the battery provides the capacitance to store or discharge energy outside the 'normal' range, for instance to cover the power dip or surge when you turn your lights on or off. If you've added heaps of 'stuff' to the electrical/Electronic load, then you need to measure or calculate the demand on the alternator whilst the car is running and fully loaded (electrically) and compare that to the wire size to ensure the cable isn't overloaded to avoid the risk of fire in the wiring loom.
Is that too much for one post?
thanks for your input,by the way what Stag have you got mk1 / mk2

Dave

Author:  SprintnSideways [ Sun May 06, 2018 1:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Stag - '74 Mk2, Carmine red, beige interior, TV8, BW35.
Dolly - '76 Sprint, Mimosa, blue/black interior, 4sp + OD, LSD. Currently upside down on rotisserie..
BMW - '00 330Ci Convertible, Blue, Grey interior, 5sp manual.
RRS - '11, V6 3.0lt diesel, black on black..

Author:  GTS290N [ Sun May 06, 2018 8:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sprint Alternator

Quote:
Quote:
thinking of using an up graded alternator,as planned upgrades include central locking electric Windows and may be heated windscreen,would I need to upgrade the wiring to the alternator ?

Dave
............ a heated windscreen only adds only a few Watts, ....
If Dave is talking about a heated FRONT screen (it should already have a heated rear screen) then the current draw was quoted at a nominal 20Amps, which at a nominal 12Volts is 20x12=240Watts.
I've no idea what the original wiring was spec'd at, but I don't reckon 240Watts on an old car is 'a few Watts'.
:)

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