The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 5:59 pm 
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Oh dear; it sounds like one of these really elusive problems.
Just to recap, if we are in the realms of electrics rather than fuel, we have...
Bosch blue non ballasted coil to 12V.
Points,
New capacitor.
Battery not over/ undercharging.
Not the coil negative to distributor lead,
Not distributor grounding.
12V supply via white wire now OK.
The external capacitor gets you home.

Could you try disconnecting the distributor internal capacitor and just using the external one. The reason being if that capacitor is going intermittently short circuit it will stop the external capacitor working.
2 other things to try. Can you wire a 12V low wattage bulb from coil + to earth. This will tell you if the 12V IGN on supply is disappearing when the engine stops.
Can you get 2 of these Sparkrite devices and put one on a plug lead and one in series with the coil output HT lead. It may need a but of crimp wiring.
This will tell you if you still have nice arcy sparkys when the engine dies.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sparkrite-Sp ... Sw3ZxaEule

Tony.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:14 pm 
This is getting pretty depressing now. Same £)(@;/ fault Car broke down no less than 6 times on a 4 mile journey. I’m starting to hate the f@)£ing thing. New fuel pump. NOS carbs, new fuel lines. Reconditioned distributer, new sparks new coil 5 times wired up by shorting to none ballant and also wired up in ballest. New battery, new alternator. Tried external condenser, made no odds. I’ve spent more on the car than what it’s worth. Anyone local wanna help or marshmallows on the dolomite bonfire seem to be the only thing worth doing to it. I’ve ran out of money and out of enthusiasm for it

Steve


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:44 pm 
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Hi Steve, have you managed to find out whether or not it is loosing it's spark when it breaks down?

Tony.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:53 pm 
Not sure if this is of any help whatsoever, I know on early 1850s if the tacho is dying it kills the ignition, does anyone know at what point in production the wiring was changed to eliminate this?
Ian


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 11:37 pm 
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Quote:
Not sure if this is of any help whatsoever, I know on early 1850s if the tacho is dying it kills the ignition, does anyone know at what point in production the wiring was changed to eliminate this?
Ian
If it's a 77 HL it's too new for the tacho to be a problem, that sort ended with or before the introduction of the later font.

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:00 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
Not sure if this is of any help whatsoever, I know on early 1850s if the tacho is dying it kills the ignition, does anyone know at what point in production the wiring was changed to eliminate this?
Ian
If it's a 77 HL it's too new for the tacho to be a problem, that sort ended with or before the introduction of the later font.
Yes and no. When the tacho shorts the white/grey wire what is on coil minus the car doesn't run anymore.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:54 pm 
Ok, well I've taken the fuel tank out and found what looks like bits of silicone floating around inside it. I'll post a photo. Hopefully for the 32784929 time this is the fault. In all honestly I've given up caring weather it is or isn't I've spent that much on the f£*&in thing. I don't know what else to do. Anyone want to donate a fuel tank to a guy that's broke to his classic?

Steve


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:01 pm 
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Check inside the float bowls for similar debris in case some has got through. Did you ever whip the float bowl lids off after a breakdown to see if they were empty?

Tony

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:39 pm 
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That does make sense, i had the same problem on a transit years ago, and found that a piece of silicon was acting like a non return valve, despite many blows with an airline. after complete fuel system strip down...... there it was a small piece of silicon :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Tony.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:42 pm 
I get too p*558d off with it when it happens and you try another repair and the same again. I'm gonner clean out all the fuel lines, filter, and bowls and maybe pray to allah, or any bl**dy god out there it f(*&in works

Cheers

Steve


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 10:21 pm 
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Hi Steve, another way of sorting this, is to have suitable container of petrol in the car with a pipe going to the fuel pump. Have someone in the passenger seat holding the said item and give it a run. I know this sounds dangerous but if you take sensible precautions, windows down, hole drilled in container cap, so that the pipe makes a good seal, it can be done, just to save pulling everything out. It worked for me more than once....... Oh and no smoking :shock:

Tony.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 6:04 pm 
Well hears some of the silicone that I found in the fuel tank. Fingered crossed this is the end of my issues. I'm going to invest in a lockable fuel cap for the car now (piece of mind!!). Thanks everyone so far for all the help and advise, I'll let you know how the cars going once I've flushed the lines out and had it running for a few months. Then hopefully I can get back on with making YouTube videos with the car in them.

Cheers

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 7:06 pm 
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Have a quick look at this article, it may be old, but it does not mean there can be no reoccurance.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/moto ... ns-silicon

Might have been a bad batch.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 8:02 pm 
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Steve was there any silicone around the sender unit locking tab area? I wonder if someone has tried to cure a petrol smell in the past by sealing it up?. RTV sealant works for a bit in petrol but eventually breaks down and falls off.

Back to my other question were the bowls ever empty after a breakdown?

Tony

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 11:30 pm 
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Those bits of silicone are more than enough to stop the car intermittently by getting sucked into the fuel pickup pipe in the tank. Engine stops and with it, the suction from the pump, silicone drifts away from pickup and engine will restart after a bit of churning over. Then the process repeats till you have no hair left! Just be sure you've got it ALL out!

I had a very similar situation occur with a brand new MkI Granada in 1973, sometimes it would do a mile or two, other times, up to 20 miles, before cutting out. but cut out it would, sooner or later. We tried all sorts to cure it, new dizzy, fuel pump etc, till eventually, out of desperation we changed the tank. End of problem! What we found when we cut the tank open beggars belief, there was an entire opened out copy of the Sun newspaper in there! Obviously left there during the production process, before the 2 halves of the tank were welded together!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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