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 Post subject: engine oil specification
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:28 pm 
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whats the best engine oil to put in a 1500 fwd please


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 5:26 am 
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Any decent brand of 20W50 should do the trick.

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Meetings take place on the 1st Wednesday of every month at The Hollies Sports & Social Club, 12 Hough Lane, Bramley, Leeds, LS13 3NE
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 5:50 am 
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Best? I would suggest miller's CSS 20/60. Holds excellent oil pressure and copes well with an engine being used hard. There is a motul oil that may be better still, but no experience myself.
However, if the car is not going to be driven hard or over long fast journeys, there are plenty of 20/50 oils that will cope just fine.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 8:06 am 
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I would say it depends on how you use the car.
In the 1500 Spitfire I generally use a "quality" 20w50 - millers etc.
HOWEVER when I run things like the CT RBRR (48 hours, 2000+ miles virtually non-stop) or the 10CR (4 days of hard climbing on Alpine passes) where the engine is going to be running warm for long periods I'll use either Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Penrite 20w60 classic light. Under those running conditions I think it's worth the extra £££ for the oil.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 8:45 am 
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https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils

This is worth a read :D I would also avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil :wary: It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.

Tony.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 6:36 pm 
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Don't forget that Club members get discounts on oil at a number of suppliers, see the Club Discounts Forum.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:45 pm 
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Quote:
https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils

This is worth a read :D I would also avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil :wary: It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.

Tony.
Agreed, something with a metric tonne of ZDDP in it it like Valvoline VR1 gets my vote for a modern oil, if you want a period perfect match for what the car left the factory with:
https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/classic-2 ... ine-oil-2/

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:48 am 
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Quote:
https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils

avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil :wary: It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.

Tony.
As sold in most supermarkets, Asda, Tesco, B&Q etc. it will state on the bottle that it is recycled or blended oil. I bought a bulk load from B&Q which I use as a quick engine flush.
I use either Comma or Halfords classic 20/50 oil and despite many people saying your engine will explode and seize if you use it I've never had a problem.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 8:09 am 
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Too much ZDDP can be bad just to confuse things. To be fair ZDDP is more important on engines with cam follower buckets than an OHV. However I agree, something half decent will do. I would avoid anything with seal swell additives though as these can just cause more problems.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:38 am 
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That's why I mentioned that basic 20/50 60's formulation as it would match a 60/50s design engine like the 1300/1500, the company themselves say ' A 20w50 is a simple oil to manufacture with a low additive range. If it was okay in the 50’s for a 50’s car, why wouldn’t it be okay today. Don’t fall into the trap of paying more for additives you don’t need.'

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Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated it on pickup from dealer, was made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into, 4 times), Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 2:46 pm 
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My 1969 volvo 145 does like fresh oil very much and takes good care that it gets some regulary.

I do put in champion classic 20w50 because my local shop does sell. When i'm on my way and the low oil level light goes on in the corners, the one with the oil can on it, and there's not enough oil in the can in the boot i put in whatever is around or to buy at a tankstop. After a good drive with a hot engine I can tell by the same light what oil is in. With the champion the light never goes on at idle and some others, also 20w50 it goes on. There are some differences in the 20w50's. The champion oil is very cheap and low quality and quality is not needed because it has no time to detoriate in that engine but it isn't alway's the price that tells.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 7:09 pm 
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Its also worth noting that the oil change interval is 6000 miles on a 1300/1500.

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