The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:01 pm 
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Anyone know (for certain) what the bore size should be?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 3:22 pm 
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I have just looked at one that came off one of my 1500 and it is 7/8th inch


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 4:18 pm 
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Thanks Richard, most helpful.

Alun


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 10:09 pm 
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if you find one that fits and isn't s**te quality, do please tell where you manage to find it!! This is current headache with my Dolly 1500!

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1980 Dolomite 1850HL Auto
1977 Dolomite 1500


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:10 am 
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I was surprised what a difference replacing the clutch pedal operating arm made. The hole through which the clevis goes had worn in the one I removed. It was not a lot but the difference it has made amazed me. Talking to an old mechanic who used to work on dolomites told me that they used to drill out the hole and bush the hole.


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 Post subject: Or....
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:31 am 
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Talking to an old mechanic who used to work on dolomites told me that they used to drill out the hole and bush the hole.
Alternatively you could pug weld the hole and drill a new hole,
this giving a much harder (longer lasting) component.

This technique is particularly worthwhile on clutch pedals.




I have seen mention of using a concentric slave cylinder on a Spitfire but (after half an hour) doing the Google thing
I failed to find such an installation.
For the 1850 I am looking at employing a Saab 99/900 cylinder but since I am unfamiliar with the ohv cars' gearboxes
I don't know whether such would be feasible here too?

However I do have a suggestion....
https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinders ... 20Cylinder
It must surely be possible to construct a bracket to mount one of these?




Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Or....
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 1:38 pm 
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why would anyone use a concentric cylinder? They are horrific things, get a cheap nasty Chinese one and you have to take the box out to replace it.


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 Post subject: Re: Or....
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:17 pm 
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why would anyone use a concentric cylinder? They are horrific things, get a cheap nasty Chinese one and you have to take the box out to replace it.
My Sprint concentric slave is quality made for Saabs. I even considered using modern Ford types too, but pipe fittings are more tricky to sort out. The cars that have them as standard will do a lot more miles before replacement is needed than a "regular" slave imo. Fit and forget and the bleed is under the bonnet :)

Tony

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 Post subject: Re: Or....
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:42 pm 
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Quote:
However I do have a suggestion....
https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinders ... 20Cylinder
It must surely be possible to construct a bracket to mount one of these?




Ian.
I can't see how you'd be able to mount a pull cylinder like that on an OHV box?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:50 pm 
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if you find one that fits and isn't s**te quality, do please tell where you manage to find it!! This is current headache with my Dolly 1500!
What problem are you having, the 13/1500 clutches need to be bled by removing the slave and holding it above the engine with the piston clamped in to make sure all the air is out.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 5:19 pm 
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if you find one that fits and isn't s**te quality, do please tell where you manage to find it!! This is current headache with my Dolly 1500!
What problem are you having, the 13/1500 clutches need to be bled by removing the slave and holding it above the engine with the piston clamped in to make sure all the air is out.
How do you compress the piston without removing the tanged cap and seal? I have a new slave but the cap is pressed into the groove in 4 places, to lever these out would surely damage the cap wouldn't it?
Rich..

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 5:53 pm 
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Push it in with a X head screwdriver


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:59 pm 
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Push in with a x head screwdriver whilst a willing partner controls pedal, so is the goal here to purge all the air out with the piston retained as far back in the chamber as possible? if so what happens when the bleed nipple is locked on, pedal raised and screwdriver out? chamber fills with clutch fluid? does it just drag fluid through and somebody has to top it up very quickly or is there more danger of dragging air through when piston is let go to fit it in position?
Reason I ask is when I discovered the slave had gone, the bleeding process was so difficult with slave in place, I also helped another member without much success a while ago with the slave in situ before we started!
I'm definitely going to try this way but need to know what to expect when piston is let go at the end of the process.
Cheers Rich

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:14 pm 
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When the screwdriver/piston/whatever is removed the piston will (quite slowly) ease towards the end of it's travel, dragging fluid from the master in the process. This will NOT be sufficient, even at full travel, to empty the master. When refitting the slave, just push it home with a gentle steady pressure and bolt it up, the fluid level will be more or less restored and can be topped up as required at the end of the proceedure.

Steve

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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:19 pm 
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Brilliant thanks Guys..hopefully tomorrow is the day when clutch action is restored :thumbsup:
Rich..

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