The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 8:37 pm 
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Having recently changed the rear wheel bearings on the SE, I now find that I have zero handbrake. I left the brakes assembled when removing the backplates, but had to wind back the adjusters to get the drums on. I know the Girling self adjusting brake has a bad reputation, but I have yanked the handbrake lever to infinity by now. PS the handbrake was fine before this. Any ideas anyone?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 8:46 pm 
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Good evening, are the adjusters moving at all when you operate the handbrake?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:44 pm 
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The Girling self adjusters barely worked when new. After all these years it's hard to find one that will work correctly now! I can't really explain why, I have 50 years in the trade, I know how to clean and dismantle them and reassemble them correctly. But making them acually work is another matter. I've long since given up trying and just manually crank them up every 6 months or so on my daily driven car. I know it's time when the handbrake gets to the last notch!

2 things to note, first is to make sure the "H" plates are present in the rear shoe that the handbrake lever bears on, without this, the handbrake has too much travel and won't work, second is to carefully remove the "wear lip" on the edge of the drum so you can set the self adjusters fully and still get the drum on.

I'm actually toying with the idea of drilling a hole in the backplate behind the toothed wheel that will allow it to be adjusted from behind with a screwdriver without even removing the wheel. I can put a tiny grommet in the hole to close it off in use.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 10:37 am 
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Quote:

I'm actually toying with the idea of drilling a hole in the backplate behind the toothed wheel that will allow it to be adjusted from behind with a screwdriver without even removing the wheel. I can put a tiny grommet in the hole to close it off in use.

Steve
That's a good idea Steve. I must have a look at how it could be done. As you say, the so-called self adjusters are one of Girling's less successful ideas.

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(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)


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 Post subject: Hmm.....
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:03 pm 
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I have previously toyed with the external adjustment idea but decided it is not for me because
I think it is always better to remove the drums to see what is what.


Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Hmm.....
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:26 pm 
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Quote:
I have previously toyed with the external adjustment idea but decided it is not for me because
I think it is always better to remove the drums to see what is what.


Ian.
I agree with this in principal, one reason I haven't actually progressed the hole idea is, because it's not THAT much trouble to pull the wheels and drums off to do the adjustment. Even on my daily driven car the wear lip doesn't come back fast enough to necessitate it's removal more than every couple of years or so. And it DOES give me the opportunity to check the state of the shoes and cylinders on a regular basis. HOWEVER, I think, in my case, twice a year may be once too often. But for those whose cars do minimal mileage, a once yearly blow out and adjust is no bad thing.

One other thing to consider in FAVOUR of the manual adjustment hole, is that it allows you to back off adjustment before removing a drum. If a wear lip exists, it's a lot easier to back off adjustment than try to remove a drum with a considerable wear lip present! It's not a BIG problem however, as the fact the self adjusters largely DON'T work, mostly precludes the wear lip from causing the problems it does on cars with more efficient self adjusters. The later model Girling ones that are on Cavaliers (and MANY other models) are SO good that there is a grommet plugged hole in the backplate, not to adjust the toothed wheel, but to over ride the handrake actuating arm to get the drum off in the presence of a wear lip. It's the grommet/plug from one of these that i'd make my adjustment hole to accept!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 4:22 pm 
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Yes the adjusters are moving and I also checked to see if the cylinders are free to slide. Mind you, there seems to be more floppiness than a camel's willie in the pivot behind the cylinder.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 4:24 pm 
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PS as usual, the"H" plates are missing.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 8:24 pm 
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Just made up two H plates. Now to fit them and see what happens.....


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 8:26 pm 
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Just made up two H plates. Now to fit them and see what happens.....


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