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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 5:38 pm 
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Can anybody tell me the torquing sequence and figures for a dolly 1850/(TR7) head please? Guessing it is different to a "normal" head with vertical studs (ie spiral out from the middle)
And the re-torquing procedure?

TIA
Clive

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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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 Post subject: Yes,....
PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:52 am 
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Some years ago I wrote an article on this in the Members' Section,
but alas I cannot find it now.

Anyhow, I use the BL method as per the workshop manual
which is to start with the middle stud then work outwards before moving onto the head bolts,
again starting in the middle and working out.
This should be done in stages.
The final figure is 55lbf.ft.

The threads should be lightly oiled and the head retightened after the engine has been run to operating temp
and then allowed to fully cool (overnight?).
After 500 miles the head should be retightened again.


Ian.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:30 am 
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Thank you
Thought it would be in "rows" but best to check. Need to order some studs etc, and get it bolted back together and get some miles on it.

A friend had a stag head gasket done by a garage. They insisted the car was left there overnight prior to re-torquing if they were to guarantee the job. So that makes sense.
Luckily the gasket I have is a genuine BL one, so that should be one less thing to worry about!

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Clive Senior
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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 11:16 am 
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Quote:
Can anybody tell me the torquing sequence and figures for a dolly 1850/(TR7) head please? Guessing it is different to a "normal" head with vertical studs (ie spiral out from the middle)
And the re-torquing procedure?

TIA
Clive
Taken from BL 1850 service manual
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 12:55 pm 
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So the later advice was the "spiral" method. So which is best??
stags seem to use the studs-first method...

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Clive Senior
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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 2:20 pm 
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Both methods are/have been sworn by various experts, though I use the spiral method incrementally at 35, 45 and 55 ftlbs; I use a similar spiral technique on the Sprint rocker cover and find it pulls it down better.

On a '7 or 1850 I would wipe the stud shafts with copper slip for ease of future dismantling..


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 3:42 pm 
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So either method is OK.
Yes, will use anti seize on the studs. But fingers crossed they will never need to come out again (I probably should not have said that)

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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 11:46 am 
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Alun, is copper grease suitable for the temperatures that the studs would be subject to? I'm sure I read somewhere that somebody used copper grease on head studs and come head removal time, the stuff had turned to concrete. It was due to whatever else was in the grease besides the copper content.

Please tell me that I'm wrong.

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Meetings take place on the 1st Wednesday of every month at The Hollies Sports & Social Club, 12 Hough Lane, Bramley, Leeds, LS13 3NE
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:00 pm 
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Copper grease is good for 1000 degrees C so find for most applications. What happens is the carrier product evaporates and then you're left with the copper which is the anti seize.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:28 pm 
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David, you are wrong; there is no OPC in copper grease so it cannot turn into concrete.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:46 pm 
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Quote:
David, you are wrong; there is no OPC in copper grease so it cannot turn into concrete.
:lol: :lol:

I have seen copperslip go "hard" ad dry out a bit. Not been an issue, and certainly better than bare metal on metal.
I am happy to use it on the studs.

I wonder how long Robsport will take to deliver all my bits and bobs to complete the job?

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Clive Senior
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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 2:44 pm 
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I had two deliveries from Robsport last week, both ordered by 'phone arrived the following day including one ordered at 4:30 pm!

MEV spares took a further day to get an internet order to me.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2018 8:18 pm 
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Don’t want to hi jack your thread Clive,

You are using a genuine BL gasket, have you or anyone else any experience with the new ones from Rimmer?

I have 4 1850 engines, so want to go through them (changing head gaskets, condition of bores, mains etc) one is supposedly a recon unit but has Sat for a while so I need to check that too.

Firstly I will be doing it for the engine to go in my car but then at least I can sell the others and confidently tell the new owners about the state of the engine.

Looked for Payen but there seems to be none about.

Thanks
Shaun


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2018 8:30 pm 
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I was lucky wit this gasket, it is a genuine Leyland, complete with the "twisted A$$hole" symbol stamped into it.

No experience of any others, but I like Robsport so they may be worth asking what they supply and how good it is.

My Robsport order arrived today, 27 hours after ordering. As did some shims :D

Saturday is rebuild day....

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Clive Senior
Brighton
Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 10:34 am 
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Clive (or any one else please)

I bought some nos gaskets for the spitfire from a chap at stonleigh he usually has a stand not far from yours Clive, selling gaskets and clutches etc. I had his contact details but now for the life of me I can’t find them.

Do you or anyone else know his details?

Regards
Shaun


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