The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:27 pm 
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum, having just bought an 1850 auto non runner. The starter is stuffed, but came with a spare, but I'm not sure if I can get it off without removing the exhaust manifold.. Is that right or is it possible without... I guess there's 2 bolts or is there 3?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks
Alan


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:11 pm 
You shouldn't need to remove the manifold or exhaust pipe. You will need to raise the front of the car on either ramps or support it safetly on axle stands - not just a jack! Get underneath and the lower bolt can be accessed easily enough. The top one will need a long extension for your socket and ratchet, I use a long extension + a short one to reach. By working across the top of the starter between the starter itself and the underneath of the manifold you can undo the top bolt. There are usually 2 bolts holding it on an 1850.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:42 pm 
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Location: Over here...can't you see me?
You need to use a 3/8" drive to get onto the top nut - it should be nuts on studs. You need a long extension and use the ratchet in the gap between front of engine and radiator.

When refitting the top nut pack the socket with grease to hold the nut and you can 'feel' it onto the stud. If you struggle, removing the blower motor from the bulkhead will allow you to get a finger onto the top stud.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 11:15 pm 
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Thanks both for quick replies.. Just the job.

Cheers
Alan


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 6:36 am 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Is the starter motor definitely toast? The inhibitor switch could be faulty or there could be a bad connection at the multiplug connection at the top of the bellhousing. Another possibility is a badly adjusted selector lever. If the reverse lights come on when R is selected then the selector lever is adjusted correctly. A continuity test with a multimeter is the best way of testing the inhibitor switch and the wiring.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 7:42 pm 
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Good question.. The chap who sold it said it was faulty and it came with a spare. That said he spare needed a bit of tic to get it working. The car has been standing for 12 years, so it could be toast. I'm new to automatics, so didn't even realise there was more to it!

Have yet to get the starter off, so I'll take a look at the points that you raised.

Thanks a lot.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 11:39 pm 
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Starter now off and replacement back on... Thanks for the posts. Foe anyone else in the future, it looked impossible at first, but once done its relatively straightforward albeit a bit fiddly.

Thanks again.


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