The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I have just repaired the water pump on my 1850 Dolly.
On putting it back in the car there is still a steady trickle of water coming from the pump area.
Martin Stone has been helpful in giving me a couple of ideas to look at but has anyone had the same experience and how was it rectified?
Thanks
Frank

this should point you in the general direction..

http://p206.ezboard.com/fthetriumphdolo ... =125.topic

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Previous owner of 42 Dolomite shaped vehicles, 14 Sprints, 12 1850s, 8 1500s, 3 V8s, 3 Toledos and 2 SEs

Thanks for that
I have read all the replies and already carried out the checks advised.
The leak is in the form of a trickle down the side of the block from the water pump.

Welcome to the forum Frank. I've just emailed you.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

I would hazard a guess that the underside of the impellor had corroded so that a new seal wouldn't seal with it (the old one wore with it) or the bush in the block needed replacement (not part of the repair kit). Too rough a reassembly can sometimes break the graphite seal.

Whatever it is the pump will have to come out again for inspection. The slot the water is coming from is a telltale to let you know when the seals on an otherwise internal pump have failed.

Was it not leaking from here before replacement? What made you replace it in the first place? Did you use a repair kit or a complete new pump?

If your located where your ID suggests, I can have a look at things for you, as I'm based in Coventry.

Again, give us the detail of what, and why things have been done, and we'll see what we can do.
BWJ

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!

I'll tell you the whole story.
I bought this car in September from Brierley Hill and on my way back down the M6 the engine blew. I had done all the normal checks before setting off so when it blew I checked again and it was completely dry.
As the car was in pretty good nick and had 12 months MOT I decided to look for a new engine. This turned up in the form of a 1975 Dolly with only 38000 miles on the clock. I went down to look at this. The body was naff but the engine sounded fine. I drove it round with the seller for about 30 miles. No problem at all - until we stopped.
I opened the bonnet and there were two leaks, one of petrol and one of water.
I traced the water leak down to the water pump and the petrol leak down to a perished seal on the bottom of the carbs.

Are you bored yet?

I got the car back home and swapped the engine from this car to the Brierley Hill car and at the same time swapped the carbs over.
At this stage I repaired thw water pump and got the engine started but with the leak I have mentioned.
Having spoken to Martin Stone he has advised me that there should be clearance between the top of the pump and the bottom of the pump cover by using gaskets as shims.

I will try this on Monday evening and see if it works.

I will update with the outcome.

Thanks all for the feedback

Frank

Just a quick thought.
Does the water seal have to fit inside the perimeter of the brass housing cage on the water pump?

Frank:

I spent my holiday this year in Coventry. (I'm from Detroit, USA). It's a great city, full of friendly people.

If you need a new water pump, they are available here in the USA new for roughly 45 pounds from an outfit called Victoria British. They now come from India or Mozambique or someplace where people work for nothing. But the quality seems reasonable. I have one but have yet to install it.

Good luck with your car,

Richard Truett

i think on that bassis it will soon be available here as we have what seems like millions of eastern europeans coming here in droves looking for work and prepared to work nearly for free !!! never mind the third world countries britain is fast turning into one of them

The water seal in the spring cup does have to sit inside the brass cage. Many repair kits are now around with a metal cup to the bottom of the spring cup which won't easily fit into the cage, the originals were plastic/hard rubber. I doubt you would have managed reassembly without it going into the cage; the folk who supply reconned pumps use a press. I worry about using a press as when you need to be able to get the assembly apart again, this part may not let go!

Was the Brierley Hill car the red car with sparco mudflaps?

Any ideas how to remove the brass housing from the block without using a special tool.

The Dolomite is a blue 1850 from a private seller who was not, as far as I know, a member of the Club and who used the car as a daily runner.

Hi Frank, just a quick note to say I got your message on the club phone line, sorry I missed you.

As you will have gathered this place is where it's at and my OHC knowledge is limited so I would probably have directed you here anyway...

Cheers

Mark

Thanks to everyone for their replies and advice.
If I can't fix the pump with all this information I might as well just buy a complete new one.
Must go now and watch the beloved Sky Blues give Stoke a good thrashing.