The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:47 pm 
Quote:
Front wheel bearings, a bit more play than you'd like.
I am sure you are both aware that they are supposed to have some play in them, it's just some MoT people won't accept any play what-so-ever, but of course "our" cars are suppose to have some. I am sure you know that anyhow. :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 7:44 pm
Posts: 1162
Location: Colchester, ESSEX
Quote:
Anyway, anywhere other than rimmers for an upper ball joint? £60 sounds a bit blinking steep! I only paid 25 quid a piece for vauxhall BJs the other week, and they were attached to a wishbone! Missed one on ebay a couple of weeks ago for 18.50.
Or anyone have a stash??

Oh, are they rebuildable then?
Stagman might still have one viewtopic.php?f=12&t=15565

Regards

Darren

_________________
1974 Triumph 1500TC In Maple Brown, (MABLE) GGN 647N
1968 Triumph Vitesse Saloon 2L MK2 Not for the faint hearted, mega restoration
1973 Triumph Spitfire In Mimosa


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:43 am 
Aye! Spotted that, cheers. PMd and hopefully winging it's way over shortly. I bought a rebuild kit too just in case I could use it, but I think those fitted are the 'sealed for life' units. Not all's lost tho, as I can replace the rubber boot that's gone on the other one and have a mildly interesting paperweight for work.

This chap's a really good old school garage owner. I can get a 30 & free retest round the corner (instead of this chap's 46 + fee for retests), but the guy's an arsewipe. He'd have had me doing allsorts of unnecessary stuff. But I know with this guy, he's into his cars and he's happy to let you stand around while he's MOTing and happy to point out what's what. I actually asked him what he thought about the wheel bearing free play and if he thought I could dial a bit out. He agreed it could probably be reduced, but there should be a bit of play and they're only knackered when they're noisy.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:00 pm 
Dolomites should have slight play in the front wheel bearings and if a car fails a MOT a retest is FREE or at a reduced rate if retested within 10 working days.

If s tester is failing for stuff that should not fail and getting you to do 'allsorts of unnecessary stuff' then he need reporting.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:29 am 
Quote:
Dolomites should have slight play in the front wheel bearings and if a car fails a MOT a retest is FREE or at a reduced rate if retested within 10 working days.

If s tester is failing for stuff that should not fail and getting you to do 'allsorts of unnecessary stuff' then he need reporting.
It was mainly brake discs and pads on 2 consecutive cars, first a cavalier, second an astra (in same week, mine and beloved mother in law's). Took what he said as gospel and went to the local bullseye and grabbed everything. He also cited brake lines on the cavalier and a lower ball joint on the astra. Cavalier needed a bit of welding, which was no bother, but the brake lines I took off, were immaculate, I mean they were pretty gunged up, but rub that away and they were like new. Ball Joint on the astra had seriously minimal play, but while doing a bush on the cav, I noticed the lower ball joint was literally hanging out. It was completely knackered. I don't know how he missed it, but my grudge was the fact he'd had me change the discs and they were absolutely fine, yet he missed this ball joint that must've been really unsafe.
I'm pretty sure it was a case of him thinking he was going to get the work, but I soon put him right coming in the following day with it all done. I'm all for a thorough job, but he was inconsistent and the brakes on both were absolutely fine.

Anyway, Took some slack out of the bearing last night, still the prescribed amount left there, hand tight then backed off.
Ball joint came off an absolute treat. I was seriously worrying about how much swearing and blood it was going to require, but it came off a treat. It's a pleasure to work on. Everything's going back on with a smear of copper grease, so it'll hopefully retain that nature.

Balljoint turned out to be a rebuildable, as it the other side, so rebuild kit will be spot on. Need a couple of bits and bobs today from motor factors, but I'll have her ready for tomorrow. Can't wait to be running her as a daily.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:56 am 
Balljoint done, bar the dust boots. Need to get a pair for the front, tho she can go back for the MOT without.

Packed the steering rack with grease, but it's still very grindy going from lock to lock. Could it be the bearing at the bottom of the steering column?

Tweaked the dizzy and it's pulling a lot lot betteer. Maybe prev owner retarded for normal unleaded. Quick enough for bobbing about in now.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:53 pm 
Well she's all sorted and got a clean ticket for the year.
Now to sort the transmission whine out.....


Went to a local scrappers on the way back as a bloke I was chatting to thought this place had an immaculate Dolomite sat there, pretty much complete. Thought I'd cross everything that it was a 1500 and could relieve it of it's manifolds and carbs (after asking about buying the whole thing naturally!). Turned out to be a 1300 fwd. In lovely nick too. Sills a bit crumbly, but sound everywhere else.

Image

Had electronic ignition and a 12v coil. Asked for a price for them and the mirrors. £80. Laughed and walked away.

Interior's been stripped out and obviously bumpers have gone. They won't let it go as a whole, as they obviously think they can get uber money for it in bits. Dead sad.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:15 pm 
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: okay so you get it, im sad :cry:

That white 1300 was taken in on the scrappage scheme so cant be sold whole.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:31 pm 
So some buttmunch sent that to the scrappers so they could get a paltry reduction (that could probably have been largely negotiated anyway) on some boring modern POS that will be lucky if it's still going in 10 years?
It's absolutely, 'king criminal.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:37 pm 
Jeepers what a sad site :( .


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 9:52 am 
Ran out of fuel last week. :D
Turned out, the voltage stabilizer had gone. Nipped to Maplins last night and bought/fitted a solid state one. Dead easy and cost less than a quid.

Where would I find the ballast resistor for the coil on this? Points need changing pretty desperately and I'm thinking of going electronic. Got a 12v coil sat here, so may try 12v setup.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:36 pm 
Right! Sorted the coil out, realised ballast is hidden away, so it's now bypassed and on a 12v coil.

Hooked up a vac gauge tonight, used the dizzy take off. Only got 10 psi at idle! Is that the correct place to take a vac reading? Likely need a tune up or something more sinister?

Went out for a tweak/play but it started to literally bucket it down, so got as far as taking the awful vac reading and got rained off.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 12:49 am 
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http://www.oocities.com/motorcity/speed ... cgage.html

This was literally the only thing I could find with numbers on it. 10psi at idle is right in the correct range (about two inches of mercury to one PSI).


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:22 pm 
Ah excellent find! Thanks for that!

Mucho weirdness tho. I get zero vac unless the throttle is cracked slightly, then i get -10, slightly more - on decel. I have an hs4 off a mini for reference and the vac take off seems normal and wouldnt need the throttle cracking a bit to get a vac reading. Does the dolly carb differ in that dept? Is it designed to give 0 vac at idle, then max vac at slight throttle, then lowing the more the throttle is open? Is it an emissions thing for idle figures?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:33 am 
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http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/por ... _s/1414014

The vacuum port is behind the throttle plate (says this link, last post at the bottom of the page) which would do exactly what you're saying, and do it for emissions reasons, which would make sense if it's a later carb. Is the vacuum take-off in the same place on the mini carb? the throttle spindle might be worn on that one if it is.


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