The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:09 pm 
Hi guys, I've not been around much lately a couple of family problems ect have taken up most of time, but I won't bother you all with the details. But when it rains it pours and today may very well be the final deluge. My little Toledo has come back from it's MOT with a lengthy list of problems and I was hoping that some of you guys in the Buckinghamshire/Berkshire/West London area might be able to help.

She needs to welding work on:
a)Nearside rear sill BOX section suspension component mounting area
b)Offside rar outer sill/sill box suspension component mounting area
c)Offside front lower outer sill area
d)Float chamber needs replacing
e)Offside steering rack gaiter split

Now my local mechanic is trying to arrange a welder to carry out the work however he's not sure he'll be able to source the sill/sill box sections that need attention, if anyone has any of these components can you please let me know, it'll be greatly appreciated.

I love this little car and I'm determined to keep her going for another 37 years, can anyone advise me on how serious/terminal these problems are (the float chamber I can sort out myself) and what they would expect to pay for this kind of work.

Unfortunatley I recently lost my job and therefore now have some major constraints on the money I have available to keep this old girl on the road so as well as looking for help with her/ideas where I can source the required bits and pieces to keep her going I may also be open to any offers from anyone who is better placed to help her live on for a many more years....however I'd be very sad to see her go and it isn't something I want to do :cry:

Sorry for the longwinded and downbeat post.

James


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:41 pm 
Firstly take it to another tester
Float chamber is not an MOT item unless the carbs are pouring out petrol in which case it would be 'fuel leak' how does he know it needs replacing?
steering rack gaiter split is not a fail.
Box section is not a suspension component its the jacking point (did it say 'within prescribed area'?), if it needs welding it is easy for good welder to make a new section and sills are readily avaliable from either the TDC or your local panel supplier.

Just from what you have posted it sounds as so he is just looking for reasons to fail it.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:54 pm 
Quote:
steering rack gaiter split is not a fail.
:scratchin:
Quote:
d. condition and security of steering rack gaiters Note: Expand steering rack gaiters for proper examination


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:19 pm 
Yeah it said in the 'perscribed area' as for the float chamber i got this sorted out myself a while back it tended to flood if she hadn't been started for a little while, the breather valve was 'sticky' and it worked fine after that, I reved the fun out her with no problems and she hadn't flooded again for months, I know when it comes to the emissions test they will rev it a lot but I can't believe they managed to flood it again!!!

I'm waiting for the mechanic to speak to his welder mate to get costs and I've already asked him to take it to another test center next time.

As sad it sounds I really love this little car, it's always been a dream to have not just any classic but a little Triumph saloon so I just hope it's not too terminal or costly.

But hey-ho it's good to be back on the boards.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:41 pm 
The mechanical aspects are nothing that an enthusiastic amateur cannot resolve. Just arm yourself with a decent workshop manual (preferably a proper Triumph one) and work through the issues.

I would agree with the others on here that it might be worth having the car re-tested by another party for a second opinion. All of the corrosion issues you describe are broadly what is encountered on Dolomites and Toledos. None are insurmountable but you will need to decide what type of repair you want: some kind of localised repair to get it through an MOT, or actually embrace the opportunity to replace the sills. There is nothing particularly wrong with the former approach, but it will mean the issue will inevitably re-occur, probably in time for the next MOT. If funds are tight, shop around in the area for quotes (use Gumtree too) and see what people come up with.

Best of luck, I hope you are able to return the car to use.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:54 pm 
Ideally I'd want to get the full works carried out and have the sills replaced, I've got a couple of Dolomite manuals which I assume suffice for a Tolly but so far the Haynes manual has got me through most of my 'enthusiastic' repair jobs.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:59 pm 
Haynes will be fine for most things and Dolomite/Toledo issues are largely interchangeable.

If you do opt for the full sill replacement, try to source either original or Austin Rover parts. Pattern ones can be okay, but if they are hard to fit inevitably put the price of the repair up somewhat.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:08 am 
What would you expect to pay for a set of near and offside sills? Apologies for sounding like a know nowt idiot I'd just like to know if the welder is trying his luck when the quote comes in.

Forgot to say on a positive note I finally got the oil pressure switch problems resolved a couple of weeks ago....so it's not all bad.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:57 am 
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The Club does a very nice line in sills, much higher quality than the pattern parts available and more durable than the OE items.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 10:58 am 
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There is a triumph friendly mechani and tester at autodrive in Hanworth. 020 8898 0365
End of M3 beginning of A316 and quite easy to see behind the shell garage.

Ask for Martin. He welded a bit for me very reasonably. The tester typically advises on shot rack gaitors provided all else is good.

Just get a new float valve from Moss round the corner....about a tenner for the new improved ball valve design.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:30 pm 
Quote:
, I know when it comes to the emissions test they will rev it a lot but I can't believe they managed to flood it again!!!

.
Okay so if it leaks it needs replacing for safety and finacial reasons if teh car is pre aug 1975 there is no need to rev the car as the emissions test is visual smoke only and the tester should not rev the car over 2500RPM if the emissions need a probe test.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:13 pm
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Quote:
If you do opt for the full sill replacement, try to source either original or Austin Rover parts. Pattern ones can be okay, but if they are hard to fit inevitably put the price of the repair up somewhat.
So for a man on a tight budget you suggest £100 cills instead of £25 cills and at that those that require the front wing to be removed???

Oh, yes, you could cut the nose off and then you'd have the equivalent of the pattern parts.

Club cills are made of good thick metal, zintec coated, fit like a glove and fit and forget. £25 each plus carriage at £12. A commercial welder would likely charge £100+ per side; if you can get the car to the Midlands on a weekend I'm sure Steve Wilkes would halve that cost and you'd save the carriage on the cills.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:09 pm 
I have no experience of fitting the sills that are available from the club, so am not in a position to comment on them. If they are as good as you say, then obviously your recommendation is better than mine.

My broad point was that pattern panels can often be more troublesome than originals. I am sure we have all encountered some shoddy panels in our time and are appreciative your efforts to supply quality items.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:54 am 
Sorry I went all quiet on this one guys I've had another eventful couple weeks - a cock up by HR and a previous 'internal transfer' application have resulted in a change in my employment status so all's well on that front (thankfully). I decided to cancel Christmas and get the work done on the Toledo by a local welder. New Sills on both sides and matched paint cost £550 which to me didn't seem too bad and the old girl sailed through a retest although the timing needs some adjustment now.

Thank you all for the advice, soemtime in the new year I'm going to replace both front wings (do the club stock these?) and then get the carpet sorted and hey presto she'll be back to her former glory - until something else falls off or breaks.

The welding does look very good so if theres anyone in the High Wycombe area who ever needs a welder I've got the fellas details.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:14 am 
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Location: Old Basing, Hants.
Jesus. (Purely because I didn't realise that's how much that would cost, I just did it myself anyway!) I definitely need to get myself some certification that says I can weld and spray!

Wings that are stocked by the club are GRP replacements. I have one of the front panels and the quality is fantastic.

Glad you've got it sorted.

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1978 Sandglow Dolomite 1850HL The Lolomite - MOT pass! (broken again in 55 miles though...)
It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.
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