The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 4:46 pm 
Hello,
Now been driving my 1850 around for a couple of weeks done around 800 miles including the long drive home after buying it.
My knowledge is pretty basic and would like to understand a bit more about it.
I am going through a stack of receipts and found on one of them a 'spin over oil filter',is this better than a 'normal' one and if there are benefits of having one would someone be kind enough to explain it?
Cheers
Taff


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 4:58 pm 
The Spin-on adaptor allows you to use a spin type oil filter cartridge, the car would of originally came with a type of oil filter which was enclosed in a metal canister, this was normally more messy as the canister held about a pint of oil (which normally ended up going down your arm and dripping of your elbow!

The spin on filter you now have means that the oil is contained within it and is less of a mess to remove when you do the servicing.

Hope this helps you?

Please keep asking questions though, we are all here to help you. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:06 pm 
Ah.
Thank you.
Maybe another entry level question tomorrow!
Is it me or do you have to already know what you are doing to understand a Haynes manual!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 7:18 pm 
Quote:
Is it me or do you have to already know what you are doing to understand a Haynes manual!
Oh yes it's a language all of it's own! :lol:

Keep the questions coming :wink: .


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:10 pm 
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Posts: 2303
Hi Taff, Just as a suggestion , having done 800 miles on a newly acquired car I'd be doing basic levels check just to make sure it isn't losing any of the vitals. Coolant in the header tank; oil-level in the sump, brake and clutch fluid levels, electrolyte level in the battery. Tyre pressures including the spare in the boot. Start with the easy stuff and in no time you will be there doing the complicated stuff.
Since it is newly acquired how about a basic service of the oil and filter, gearbox and diff, new spark plugs. Do you have electronic ignition ? That saves doing points. The 1850 is not a bad engine to work on. If I can find my way around an 1850 anybody can. And I'm an electronics person .
Good Luck,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:34 pm 
Cheers,
I have been scouring loads of posts on here.
Have got as far as plugs,oil and coolant level.
One thing i noticed is a post where some people didn't recommend 100% coolant which is what i have,i got a 5 litre container of spare coolant which states not to mix with water so i am not sure about that?? and also got 5ltrs of oil with car,Castrol Magnatec which can i assume is a decent oil?
Thanks
Taff


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:37 pm 
That'll be pre-mixed coolant, it's meant for use without diluting but far better use a 30% mixture of ordinary, MEG (mono-ethylene glycol) such as Bluecol or Fucks Eskimo.
That said, unless your premix is the more modern, organic acid stuff, there's no harm in using that provided you keep an eye on the concentration if you need to top up at any time, say to allow for a change of thermostat or a fresh hose somewhere.

Magnatec receives mixed reviews but is sure to be less harmful than some of the so-called "classic" oils which can be very poor. Don't forget that one of the reasons today's engines last longer than many older ones is that oil is better these days. Don't go too modern though, I have a feeling that anything above SJ is too low in ZDDP for an older engine but that still gives you a choice of many good mineral oils. My blue Dolomite reached its 215,000 miles on a diet of Valvoline 15w50, the brown one had that green Halfords/Comma stuff in its sump for a short while but that's better used for a lawnmower than a potentially expensive engine as it softens oil seals. It's supposed to, but in an engine that hasn't been stored for much of its life they stay supple enough as a rule and that oil simply turns healthy ones to paste.
So the brown car was on Fucks "Superma" 15w50 then back to the Valvoline once I'd found another source of that and its (replaced) oil seals are still fine after almost 40,000 miles in 3 years on these modern, high-quality oils.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:50 pm
Posts: 5723
Location: Next to my Computer
Quote:
Ah.
Thank you.
Maybe another entry level question tomorrow!
Is it me or do you have to already know what you are doing to understand a Haynes manual!
Here are some useful translations. Very much a repost but probably worth it. :D

Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?

Haynes: Should remove easily.
Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (industrial size).

Haynes: Ease ...
Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Crikey what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.

Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!

Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?

Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).

Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start.

Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!

Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!!
Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't mention it to your insurance company.

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "******" repeatedly under your breath.

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw.

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!

Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain spanner or length of bicycle chain.
Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere.

Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid. Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease.

Haynes: See illustration for details
Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 4:21 pm 
Ha,
Thank you.
All makes sense now!
Nothing like terrifying someone who doesn't know what they are doing anyway,thankfully all ive had to do so far is polish it
Best i get my mum on a mechanics course
Taff


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 6:33 pm 
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TDC Events Officer
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:50 pm
Posts: 5723
Location: Next to my Computer
Quote:
Ha,
Thank you.
All makes sense now!
Nothing like terrifying someone who doesn't know what they are doing anyway,thankfully all ive had to do so far is polish it
Best i get my mum on a mechanics course
Taff
I didn't know what I was doing when I took my car to pieces for a full strip and rebuild. Looking at it now, I'm still not sure I do. :D

On a slightly more sensible tack, I'd recommend getting hold of the factory workshop manual.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-DOLOM ... 2ebedfeb46

It's a bit more comprehensive than the Haynes. Having two books describing the same thing is quite helpful sometimes too.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:11 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
Posts: 11179
Location: Middlesex
All you will ever need to know is in our heads on here...:-)

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:24 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Jonners is probably the most knowledgable or at least the most experienced with "our" cars.

Please feel free to pick our collective brains.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:55 pm 
I would recommend that you get a proper parts book as it has exploded drawings of the car parts inside. This is very useful when you put stuff back together and find you have a spare bit :). Also it makes looking for parts easier.


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