The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi, I'd be grateful for some advice re my 1976 Dolomite Sprint. The car has been off the road for years and I'm now trying to get it back on the road again. On the standard mechanical fuel pump does the fuel pipe from the tank enter at the bottom and the pipe to the carbs connect at the top ? Also the engine is in place but the exhaust manifold is not. I'm now wondering if I should have fitted the manifold before installing the engine.

In a word yes, though you might be able to gain some useful access by undoing the mounts and jacking the engine. It is probably the worst single design of the Sprint engine.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30

As Mark says regarding the exhaust manifold because it is getting the bolts in and out that is difficult.


Reference the fuel pump,
I would fit a filter (into the hose before the pump) before going any further.
On the top of the pump (on my 1850) there is an arrow indicating flow direction so you know which union is which.
To check the pump is working okay I would try turning the engine over with the outlet hose disconnected (but aimed into a
suitable glass jar). It can be tricky to get the actuating arm correctly set up on the jackshaft.

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Fuel pipe from tank enters the top, bottom to carbs.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

Many thanks to all for taking the time to reply. Looks like first I'll be trying to fit the manifold by jacking the engine up.

The manifold can be easily fitted by undoing the nearside mount and jacking up the engine, jack it high (undo top hoses at thermostat cover and it will go high enough).

You need to put two of the bolts through the manifold before offering it up to the head; its obvious which two!

I use a bottle jack on bricks bearing onto the bolted flange of the sump rather than using the sump pan itself, it helps rotate the engine and gives better clearance.

I'd take the engine and box out again together. That way you can ensure the manifold and downpipe joints are all good....

You run a very real danger of stripping the threads in the head if you can't see what you are doing. You also need to ensure that the threads in the downpipe flange on the manifold are in good condition.
I use studs on the middle and top. If you use a stud on the botton its all but impossible to detach the downpipe in future....

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Nonsense! Unnecessary waste of time and effort taking an engine out to do this. Having done the job twice once the engine is sufficiently rotated vision is clear and its care as usual when putting steel bolts into alloy. Its an hour's labour versus a whole day of faff; take your choice....

Really?
If he's only partially put it back in and it has no exhaust, its just line up the hoist, undo the engine mounts and its out again within the hour...

If its all back in...prop and tunnel and radiator etc you have a case....

Also try the pump by hand and suspect all the rubber joining sections.....they perish and your pump will suck air....

Having to helicoil an exhaust manifold bolt is scary....

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

I had a thread go so I helicoiled all the exhaust bolt threads and also found the bolts used a bit short so I found some a tad longer to ensure it gripped on all the thread.
Take your time and it's not such a bad job.

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Mike

1980 Vermillion Sprint - 174bhp

I appreciate all of the above advice. I think I'll very carefully try the jacking method first as I no longer have the hoist used to fit the engine.

i found it easier to connect the downpipe and manifold together and then fit it ( but i was fitting a new stainless downpipe ), not to bad a job with engine in situ ( i also fitted new bolts to the manifold as well which is a good idea if there some years old )

Thanks for the spot-on help. Nearside engine mounting disconnected, engine raised a few inches on the jack and manifold fitted as advised with the help of my mate.

Wow a whole year on...

Maybe post more on the main forum so we dont miss you...

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

What about a thread in the "resto" section documenting your progress?

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle