The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi everyone.

Can someone give me an idea as to what the engine timing on a dolomite 1300 should be showing on tickover (850 ish rpm)

Been having running probs since mot tester reduced the mixture to get it through the test, and then I found a leak into the manifold from the servo take off. The mixtures been set with a colour tune, it was miles too weak, and the leak fixed and now I get a steady reading on the timing light but its running at round 14 degrees BTDC. My Haines suggests it should be about 4 degrees for leaded petrol but it was re tuned for lead free in the past.

Is this to far advanced, I cant find any guidance anyware. The cars been fitted with an inline filter to add lead as it passes thro. Normally its run on unleaded but I have put some super unleaded in to see if it makes a difference. Since setting the mixture I have not noticed any over pinking or runnung on which it was doing before.

You are disconnecting the vacuum advance when you're checking the timing, aren't you?

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!

No I was told that at tick over the vacuum advance wouldn't be working, only comes in at higher revs, is this wrong. Before I fixed the leak it was all over the place but I get a steady reading now.

Took it for a run Sunday and it was lightly pinking up hills so it may not be far off. Weather permitting going to retard it a little tomorrow and see if it improves.

Vacuum advance must be disconnected when doing the timing at idle, 14 degrees is to advanced hence pinking, need to retard to 10 degrees which is the book figure

Thanks I suspected this and had been advised 10 degrees was the setting. The figures in my Haynes for toledoes and 1300 dollies is 9degrees static and at 850rpm 3.5-5.5 degrees btdc. Where do those figures come from?
I haven't set timing for 30 years so rusty but this advice is making more sense to me. I just can't understand why it was set so far advanced when adjusted supposedly proffesionally for std unleaded.

Thanks everyone.

If you checked the timing with the vacuum advance connected then it may be the reason it was 14 degrees, when you check it with it disconnected it well may be 10 degrees, if that's the case and your still getting pinking you can retard to 8 degrees

Thanks everyone for your advice.

I checked the timing again without the vacuum pipe connected and the reading was 15/16 degrees so reset to 10 degrees. Runs better than it ever has no pinking on hills or accelerating on 35 mile run. Its still on 97 Ron super unleaded and I think I will stay on it for now.

Now looking forward to taking it NDD this week end, it will be its longest run since I got it.

Glad you got It sorted

Remove the sname oil add on the puts 'lead' in the fuel. They dont do anything.

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Some people are like Slinky's, they serve no real purpose in life but bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.

I've wondered about them do they work. Like you toledoman calls them snake oil. When I got the car I had it checked over by a very reputable triumph spitfire specialist and restorer of all classics and asked him about them. He said most do nothing but the one fitted here was a good one with a long life.

I suspect that it has been on the car a while possibly since leaded became unavailable so was considering using an adative. The cars done less than 43k and considering other views on not using them as the head will last for 30k without and then will be a cheap fix if its worth it. So far no sign of any problems so is this the unit or mileage?

Has anyone ever done any tests on them or seen any concrete evidence for or against?

Could this be the start of a new thread?