Am sure you all recall the Little White Tolly of mine with the TR7 engine in. Am thinking she might be fun for the odd track day here and there.
Any thoughts?
Ken
LWT Track Day Toy?
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Purplebargeken
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
There are standard shocks on there now but I believe I may have access to Spax items (IIRC) with some negotiation 
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paulsprint
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
First thing you need is a good set of harness to keep you in place in the arm chair
Second a new set of disk and decent pads(not ebc green stuff). Best one I've found on std disks are mintex m1144's or m1166's
Then some decent engine oil (miller csk 20/50 semi synthetic is very good for the money) don't be tempted with the halfords stuff you will loose oil pressure when it's very hot
Now you can look at better springs dampers and poly bushes etc
Once the suspension is sorted get it setup on a proper 4wheel alignment ramp. It will transform the handling.
Remove as much weight as you can, it the best way to a fast car. Every extra kg takes more power to accelerate and more road to slow down.
Just my take mind
Second a new set of disk and decent pads(not ebc green stuff). Best one I've found on std disks are mintex m1144's or m1166's
Then some decent engine oil (miller csk 20/50 semi synthetic is very good for the money) don't be tempted with the halfords stuff you will loose oil pressure when it's very hot
Now you can look at better springs dampers and poly bushes etc
Once the suspension is sorted get it setup on a proper 4wheel alignment ramp. It will transform the handling.
Remove as much weight as you can, it the best way to a fast car. Every extra kg takes more power to accelerate and more road to slow down.
Just my take mind
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Purplebargeken
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
Cool, that is all good.
Damn, where's the application form for slimming world?
Seats. Hmm. Might look at some Rover ones, poss ZS. Comfy, yet supportive.
Harness. Agreed, I felt like a solitary smartie in the tube at Brands Hatch the other month. Not that pleasant.
All sensible and achievable.
Thanks
Ken
Damn, where's the application form for slimming world?
Seats. Hmm. Might look at some Rover ones, poss ZS. Comfy, yet supportive.
Harness. Agreed, I felt like a solitary smartie in the tube at Brands Hatch the other month. Not that pleasant.
All sensible and achievable.
Thanks
Ken
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Dolly-Nut
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
An oil cooler is a must. My track car had almost no oil pressure below 2000rpm after a 10 minute session above 5000rpm with VR1.
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Neil907
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
Personally I wouldn't fit harnesses without fitting a cage. If things go wrong you may not want to be so well held in place.
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Carledo
- TDC Shropshire Area Organiser
- Posts: 7176
- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
- Location: Highley, Shropshire
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
A really supportive seat is worth 5 secs a lap, TJ brakes are a must have for track work if you want to avoid fade, ASP shox will save you having to experiment with 19 different sets of springs (none of which are made for a Toledo so don't work the same way in practice) A few polybushes in the right places, a ruthless attitude to weight removal and solid rack mounts are my recommendations. And if it doesn't already have one, a front antiroll bar is a must.
I don't bother with a harness, a normal seatbelt with a good seat is fine. A cage is nice and a well fitted one will stiffen the shell a bit but it does add weight. Move the battery to the boot, it helps with weight distribution, allows a bigger, cheaper battery and uses some of the space liberated by binning the spare wheel and tools. Don't forget to panel over the hole where the back seat was.
I can't really advise on engine stuff since i've never used a slant in that much anger, but I would guess an oil cooler is a good idea, along with a better rad (Saab?) and an electric fan.
Steve
I don't bother with a harness, a normal seatbelt with a good seat is fine. A cage is nice and a well fitted one will stiffen the shell a bit but it does add weight. Move the battery to the boot, it helps with weight distribution, allows a bigger, cheaper battery and uses some of the space liberated by binning the spare wheel and tools. Don't forget to panel over the hole where the back seat was.
I can't really advise on engine stuff since i've never used a slant in that much anger, but I would guess an oil cooler is a good idea, along with a better rad (Saab?) and an electric fan.
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
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gmsclassics
- TDC Member
- Posts: 669
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 9:57 am
- Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Re: LWT Track Day Toy?
When I bought the brown car of mine back in 2000, apart from a few safety checks, I started racing it just as it was. The development has continued over the years so that lap times that started around the 1:28 have come down to 1:13, but on reflection I was having just as much fun 15 years ago as now.
My memories are that the first thing to do that will see both you and the car survive a track day are:
1. Make sure you can control the car, which means staying in the seat, preferably not just by hanging onto the steering wheel! I did devise a way of 'locking' the standard seatbelt so I was held tightly.
2. Next is making sure you can stop. I can echo the comment about the Mintex brake pads above (I've had standard pads literally on fire), but also flush and change the brake fluid, preferably for a higher boiling point version (Motul 600 or even 660), otherwise you will boil the fluid on a hot day.
3. If using road tyres, pump them up to at least 32psi, maybe even up to 36.
4. I also had problems with the engine temperature, but mine is a Sprint engine so I doubt you will have quite the same issue with a TR7 unit. If you do, first step is to drain out the antifreeze mixture and replace with distilled or clean rain water, plus a corrosion inhibitor or the 'Water Wetter' product. Water is much more efficient at transferring heat than any antifreeze mixture. Eventually a decent temperature gauge that reads in degrees will help you understand what is going on before you start making expensive changes.
The cool down lap is important to avoid localized boiling in the engine and warping discs (which can happen if you stop with very hot pads as parts of the disc then cool at different rates).
The cheapest improvement I ever made was sticky rubber, that alone reduced lap times by 4 seconds. Other than of course learning how to drive on the track, which is all about getting the right lines, late braking, carrying as much speed through the corners and getting the power down as fast as you can. It took me a long time to get used to not lifting off before braking late - that idea of keeping one foot to the floor and then in an instance hitting the brakes hard is against everything we actually do on the road.
Most important thing though is to have fun!
Geoff
My memories are that the first thing to do that will see both you and the car survive a track day are:
1. Make sure you can control the car, which means staying in the seat, preferably not just by hanging onto the steering wheel! I did devise a way of 'locking' the standard seatbelt so I was held tightly.
2. Next is making sure you can stop. I can echo the comment about the Mintex brake pads above (I've had standard pads literally on fire), but also flush and change the brake fluid, preferably for a higher boiling point version (Motul 600 or even 660), otherwise you will boil the fluid on a hot day.
3. If using road tyres, pump them up to at least 32psi, maybe even up to 36.
4. I also had problems with the engine temperature, but mine is a Sprint engine so I doubt you will have quite the same issue with a TR7 unit. If you do, first step is to drain out the antifreeze mixture and replace with distilled or clean rain water, plus a corrosion inhibitor or the 'Water Wetter' product. Water is much more efficient at transferring heat than any antifreeze mixture. Eventually a decent temperature gauge that reads in degrees will help you understand what is going on before you start making expensive changes.
The cool down lap is important to avoid localized boiling in the engine and warping discs (which can happen if you stop with very hot pads as parts of the disc then cool at different rates).
The cheapest improvement I ever made was sticky rubber, that alone reduced lap times by 4 seconds. Other than of course learning how to drive on the track, which is all about getting the right lines, late braking, carrying as much speed through the corners and getting the power down as fast as you can. It took me a long time to get used to not lifting off before braking late - that idea of keeping one foot to the floor and then in an instance hitting the brakes hard is against everything we actually do on the road.
Most important thing though is to have fun!
Geoff