The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 5:34 pm 
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I knew the last owner of PUS and I would say it was kept reasonably well but lived outside.

It didnt look at all scabby about 18 months ago last time I saw it. Drove nicely too...

I've often treated scab like that and try as I might it sometimes comes back again in similar places 18 months or so later.

Even though Sapphire was not that common a colour I have to conclude some colours are better than others scab resistance and overl longevity wise.
I'd say Russet and Vermillion do better as does white 19 but Damson, Mallard, Inca Carmine and Brooklands not so good.



Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:28 pm 
Quote:
I knew the last owner of PUS and I would say it was kept reasonably well but lived outside.

It didnt look at all scabby about 18 months ago last time I saw it. Drove nicely too...

I've often treated scab like that and try as I might it sometimes comes back again in similar places 18 months or so later.

Even though Sapphire was not that common a colour I have to conclude some colours are better than others scab resistance and overl longevity wise.
I'd say Russet and Vermillion do better as does white 19 but Damson, Mallard, Inca Carmine and Brooklands not so good.



Jonners
Indeed, I've been told it's down to the lead in the paint (originally)? I believe brown and red have a higher quantity and therefore have naturally a higher level of corrosion resistance.



Can anyone answer the question if the inner and outer arches are usually sealed together or not?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
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Can anyone answer the question if the inner and outer arches are usually sealed together or not?
I believe the factory made a perfunctory effort to ram some sealer around the arch joint after the joint was spot welded together but due to the complex shape and the very narrow gap available, not much would have got near the spot welds. Factor in 40 years of hardening and shrinkage of the seam sealer along with corrosion causing condensation in the boot area and the result is entirely predictable.
When I repair arches on Dollies, unless it's for concours, I cut off the inner arch lip, slit and turn up the outer arch lip and GLUE the 2 together with Tigerseal rather than welding. This gives more room for big wheels, less room for mud and muck to lodge and a much more airtight seal. In case you are wondering about the structural implications of NOT welding the joint, fear not, the metal will dissolve before the Tigerseal loses its grip!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:57 am
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Location: Dorset
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It was actually "hot tar" bitumen that was poured into the gap in the boot between the wheel tub & the rear wing skin.
when it it poured down & made a pool in the corner of the boot floor where it solidified, You will find it under the paint in this area on most Dolomites particularly early ones.
So that's why my car kept catching fire whenever I welded it (further up the panel, I cleaned the local bit obviously)...

Steve


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:39 pm 
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
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It was actually "hot tar" bitumen that was poured into the gap in the boot between the wheel tub & the rear wing skin.
when it it poured down & made a pool in the corner of the boot floor where it solidified, You will find it under the paint in this area on most Dolomites particularly early ones.

Mike.
Yes my Sprint had a big puddle under the tank here which I had to dig out to discover just how bad the rot was around the bootfloor/wheel arch joint. The stuff certainly didn't do anything to preserve the rear arches!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:46 pm 
I am familiar with the black tar and question how far it penetrates when new.

A tip given to me years ago by a bodywork chap was to pour 'red oxide primer down into the joints'. I must admit that I have used this approach followed by waxoyl on vehicles and it does provide good protection.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:04 pm 
Sounds like we'll have to make an assessment when we get there and decide the best course of action to try to give them a bit more longevity, it doesn't seem hard to improve on the orignal design!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:47 pm 
Most interesting to read about different colour properties Jonners and the tar situation Mikey, you learn something new every day!! Hope you are both well, Kind Regards Russell


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
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Most interesting to read about different colour properties Jonners and the tar situation Mikey, you learn something new every day!!
I agree, I was wondering what all the black stuff was when I was looking inside my rear wings.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:02 pm 
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Quote:
Most interesting to read about different colour properties Jonners and the tar situation Mikey, you learn something new every day!!
I agree, I was wondering what all the black stuff was when I was looking inside my rear wings.
Excellent! As I've not had my car long (it's spent 9/10 weeks of ownership in the garage having its engine rebuild!!) I've not noticed but you can bet what the first thing I'm going to look at when it returns soon!!! :-)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:27 pm
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I was wondering what all the black stuff was when I was looking inside my rear wings.
So are you going to keep the "black stuff" to maintain your car's originality, or try something that will actually maintain the car's integrity? :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:07 pm 
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So are you going to keep the "black stuff" to maintain your car's originality, or try something that will actually maintain the car's integrity? :)
Hell no, it's being dipped then having that e-coat business, that should get in the rear arch seams! :D


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:19 pm 
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Quote:
So are you going to keep the "black stuff" to maintain your car's originality, or try something that will actually maintain the car's integrity? :)
Hell no, it's being dipped then having that e-coat business, that should get in the rear arch seams! :D
Excellent!!! :D


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 1:59 pm 
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Quote:
... but surely serious questions need to be asked to the chap who does it on his behalf?
With statements like that I have to ask, how much experience do you have as a panel beater/ sprayer?
In answer to your question, Mart, 28 years, working on numerous different marques.

My comment wasn't intended to slight you, quite the opposite: you clearly go to great lengths to restore your cars, I was just expressing surprise that this one had let go so quickly after professional services had been employed.

No matter, I'm sure it can be rectified satisfactorily.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 9:10 pm 
Quick update:
Got it MOT'd at the weekend and replaced the LHF quarter window so all water tight for winter. Under cover now until January when the bodywork is getting sorted.


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