The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:24 am 
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There's one thing that seems to have been overlooked. The fuel is probably stale by now so I might try some fresh fuel before attempting another start up.

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Toledo Man

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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:00 pm 
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Quote:
There's one thing that seems to have been overlooked. The fuel is probably stale by now so I might try some fresh fuel before attempting another start up.
Seems unlikely, hasn't been stood for that long. I assume you've checked your timing is not 180 degrees out? You might have lined up with your mark but how do you know which stroke the engine is on? If you're trying to spark at the wrong place you'll never get it running.

I would seriously consider fitting the right distributor too. I think you're making things harder for yourself. As has been said, it won't work correctly with your car anyway.

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 9:38 pm 
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Change the plugs. So do not clean but fit new ones. They can go faulty after many attempts of starting.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 5:23 pm 
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Quote:
Change the plugs. So do not clean but fit new ones. They can go faulty after many attempts of starting.

Jeroen
Noooo, he needs to clean the car inside and out first. A clean car is a happy car and will thus start first time every time!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 6:50 pm 
It doesn't like it's new coat, it's the most significant thing that has changed.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:04 pm 
For the sake of a condenser and a set of points, thats about a tenner, I can't see what is holding it back.

There is already a load of advice in this thread on how to prime an engine that has been standing and how to systematically set the timing with confidence.

Its not that tricky, you need fuel, a spark, and then you put them together at the right time.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:58 am 
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What cam timing mark do you use to have the rotor on cil 1?

There's a small line and a cutout in the camshaft both can be identified as a "mark".

You need the thin line aligned to the mark on the bearing cap.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:50 pm 
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I pushed it into Jo's garage so I could work in relative comfort. I removed the electronic ignition and fitted a set of points and condenser that I'd bought from my local Moss. With a fully charge battery it would crank over but wouldn't fire. I wasn't even getting a spark at the points so I did the unthinkable and refitted the Delco dizzy. I set the engine position (10 deg BTDC) and adjusted the dizzy using my test light (bulb holder from a Dolly rear light unit and a couple of wires which I had to repair before I could use it). It still wouldn't fire. I seem to be getting a weak spark but there's so much I can do on my own (Adam would come and go when I was spannering and points igniton & carbs are a dark art to him). I was unable to set the points gap properly because my feeler gauges had rusted. In the end I had to admit defeat and called it a night. It wasn't a total loss because I managed to fit the rest of the chrome trim and the car now has a full compliment of chrome trim bar the "feet" at the ends of the trim that goes round the rear window and I'm missing the offside sill strip. There were some clips in the parts haul so I didn't have to buy any more clips.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 7:39 pm 
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Well well well! Would you Adam & Eve it?

IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I went over to the garage to get one of the parts that I'd sold and I decided to try start the 1850. Much to my surprise the engine started and it ran. The tickover is a bit high (an indicated 1500 rpm) but I feel that I've turned the corner on this little saga. All the settings are out of kilter so once I can get it running a bit better, I can look at getting it booked in for the MoT. It is now totally as per 1850 spec with the rubber carb mounts and the Delco dizzy.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 1:13 pm 
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It just wanted some shiny bits fitting to show off. :eyes4u:

Glad you got it going Dave.

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75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:40 pm 
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I've decided to address the bypassed inhibitor switch. The only fix is to replace it. Rimmer Bros have them in stock at £80 including the dreaded VAT so instead I've sent Mick Dolphin an e-mail to see if he's got any left in stock. I've also e-mailed S&S Preparations as the TR7s share many mechanical components with the 1850. I'll try a "wanted" thread too.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:19 am 
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Posts: 1909
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Inhibitor switches are £80 retail wherever you go. The same part is used on SD1s, Stags and 2000s so you may find a used one on eBay. I would seriously recommend getting a new one though as you don't know what you're getting with a used and this could end up creating more problems for you.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:26 am 
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Presumably the rovers with the BW boxes would share this part too? Rover guys dont spend much lol

Tony

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:39 am 
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A second hand inhibitor switch will be no good either as it is likely to be in poor condition, if even in one piece; they go brittle due to exhaust heat. I tried removing one from a scrap box and it fell apart in my hands!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:16 am 
Someone had shorted the inhibitor switch out on my Sprint and I started it in drive and shot down the road.

Luckily there was no one in front of me but it could have been a lot worse.

I'm sure that you're not as stupid as me but I would definitely get it done, £80.00 seems to be the standard price.

I was concerned about the heat from the exhaust so I put some heat wrap on it.


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