The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:49 pm 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Mick Dolphin lists them for £50. If he hasn't got any in stock (aren't all his parts NOS?) I'll just have to bite the bullet. Replacing the inhibitor switch is a post-MoT so it isn't top priority right now. If Mick has one, I'll get it while I can. The only thing that worries me is the quality of new parts. I don't mind paying that bit more for decent quality. I've ordered an oil filter and there was some engine oil among the parts haul form Steve W so I can get an oil change done. I can also fit the new air filters which should help when I come to getting it running properly.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 1:03 pm 
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If Micks got some then let me know, for that price I'll get a spare.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 2:29 pm 
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Hi Dave, Aren't the 2nd set of contacts on that auto-inhibitor switch for the reversing lights ? I think you need those for the MOT.
Tony.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:24 pm 
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Reverse lights are not testable..


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:42 pm 
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Also, try http://www.jpat.co.uk/ for a switch, they are very helpful and normally half the price of elsewhere.... Most of the trade buy direct from them.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:58 pm 
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Thanks for the link Matt.

Tony, the reverse lights are working through the inhibitor switch. It is the connections for the starter motor (so it only starts in the P & N positions) that aren't working. It has been bypassed (not by me). It will be given top priority once I've gained an MoT.

I went over to the garage and I manage to bring the idle down. I decided to refit the solid carb mounts and I was still able to start the engine. I couldn't find my carb balancer so I used a spare section of fuel pipe that was in the boot and I was able to balance the carbs by ear. I also fitted the new air filters. By the time I was done it was too late to take a test drive so I called it a night.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:09 am 
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I took it for a quick run round the block and it wasn't responsive so I put the Lucas dizzy back in with the Britpart kit and it was back to where I was before. I'll try the points in the Lucas dizzy and if I get no joy I'll fit one of my replacment set of Delco points. I've got my feeler gauges so I can set the gap properly.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 12:26 am 
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I tried the electronic igniton with the Lucas dizzy. It was firing but wouldn't run. I tried the points in the Lucas dizzy. That didn't work either. I went back to the Delco dizzy and, fitted one my sets of points and it still won't start. I had to charge the battery and after being sidetracked by a loose connection on the earth terminal it still won't run. I checked the live feed to the coil and there is power. Upon pulling the king lead off and turning the engine over there's no spark at the coil so I'm suspecting a duff coil. Once I've dug out one of my spare coils, I can try it.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 10:09 am 
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Quote:
there's no spark at the coil so I'm suspecting a duff coil. Once I've dug out one of my spare coils, I can try it.
Then you still not know. Connect a test lead with a lamp and check your dizzy. Then you know.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 12:56 pm 
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Jeroen, I followed the words of "wisdom" in the Haynes. I connected the test lamp frm the postitive terminal of the battery to the lead from the dizzy that would go to the coil when setting the staic timing. I don't know if that is the right thing to do. I removed the king lead at the dizzy end and got a helper (Adam) to hold the lead next to a suitable earth while I operated the stater motor and there was no spark so I can only surmise that the coil is duff.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 1:24 pm 
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Then it's time to bin that Haynes manual or you did read wrong. You take off the lead from the dizzy that goes to the coil. That lead, now on one side still on the dizzy, you connect through a test light to the pos side of the battery.

Now you have the dizzy disconnected from the coil so it will never give a spark when cranking.

The thing to test is if the points do open and close and make contact to ground. With this setup and turning the engine by hand the testlight must go on and off. When the points are closed the testlight should be on because grounded by the points. When the points are open the testlight should be out.

If the test light stays out, the points don't ground. That can be dirt, on new points protective wax, or the baseplate where the points are on is not connected properly to ground.

When the testlight stays on there's a short to ground where the wire leaves the dizzy or the wires attached to the points are fitted wrong or have contact with the base plate.

So when turning the engine by hand and the light goes on and off you can suspect the coil. But if the test light doesn't pulsate it's a dizzy problem.

Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 1:47 pm 
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The problem here is that the car seemed to be working and then you swapped a load of stuff around again and now it doesn't work. Stop fiddling with things!

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 6:54 pm 
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Dave, when you had it running but with no pulling power, did you check and/or adjust the ignition timing? Understanding the basics here is important. When it was running did you try to adjust (ie advance) the ign timing?. Powerspark units have been known to fail or never work from new as I found out so dont think just because youve tried one thats its another problem rather than the powerspark unit being faulty.
As Jeroen mentioned, dirty (new) points with a protective coating will stop current flowing and hence no spark. New points should have a wipe with fine wet and dry between the contact faces then gapped. Dont keep changing parts until you understand what is at fault. Jeroens check for power should be followed. You can have spark but in the wrong timing sequence so work on that first.
A cheeky dirty way of checking for spark rather than rotating the engine which can be awkward is set the No1 cylinder 10 degrees before TDC then with distributer loose rotate in both directions so the points open and close and watch for king lead spark (held close to earth but fitted in coil). When you find the point of spark stop rotating and lock dizzy. Car should fire if you have spark. When it does use a TIMING light to verify timing after warm up and correct idle speed.
Throwing a new coil at it then doing 10 other things at the same time tells you (and us) nothing even if it runs ok after doing all that. You need to know what it at fault. Its unusual for a coil to fail without warning from a running state ie misfiring would be noticed.
Not a rant mate but slightly frustrated youre chasing you tail and getting further away from the "fix"

Cheers

Tony

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 7:32 pm 
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I've made a bit of progress.

I went into the garage this evening determined to try again. When I turned up my feeler gagues (I keep them in the glovebox so they don't get rusty like the last ones did) I suddenly had an epiphany. I'd been setting the wrong gap. I tried it with the points in the Lucas dizzy and the car wouldn't start. I fitted the original points that were in the Delco dizzy that I knew were working and I fitted the Delco dizzy. I've managed to get the engine running (badly) but I ran down the battery so I've had to give up for now and put it on charge.

I'm getting there.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 10:44 pm 
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Dave, I didn't wait 17 day's only to read this. I thought all was fine and you were on a holiday with your dolomite.

Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com


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