The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:12 am 
James, going back a couple of weeks, I noticed that you reconditioned your steering rack. Can I ask where you got the gaiters from, they look better than the ones I am having problems with.

Also where do you get your paint, I have a lot of trouble getting it matched.

Hope I've not interrupted your flow too much !

Alan


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:21 am 
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James, going back a couple of weeks, I noticed that you reconditioned your steering rack. Can I ask where you got the gaiters from, they look better than the ones I am having problems with.

Also where do you get your paint, I have a lot of trouble getting it matched.

Hope I've not interrupted your flow too much !

Alan
Hi Alan, don't worry. The gaiters came from Rimmers, as far as I can see they fit fine. The paint came from a company called Automotive Paint Supplies in Aldershot.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:49 am 
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Please do hang on to that layshaft. With the current parts shortage I'd like to see how much it would be to get that re-sleeved.
Sam (Yorkshire Spam) suggested the same on Facebook, it can't be that difficult to have them sleeved.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:02 am 
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Oh dear, long time no update and quite a lot has happened as well!

I'll start with the gearbox.

I managed to source the parts required to rebuild it basically a single rail gear set that had no damage, once I had done that it was just a simple process to just clean everything up and put it back together. The overdrive, as far as I could see, was fine so I just pulled the plate off the bottom and cleaned the filters.

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Gave the casing a coat of paint.

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I checked all of the layshaft needle bearings with a micromiter. The new ones are 0.4mm larger than the old ones on both gearboxes, all 25 fit snug and are held in with a dummy layshaft and Vaseline.

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Mainshaft support

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Layshaft in with new thrust washers, all within tolerance. Main gearset built up and the bearing being driven onto the shaft.

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All done!

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Bellhousing fitted to my cradle with new oil seal

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Overdrive filters cleaned

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All refitted, filled with oil and ready to go back on to the car

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:20 am 
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Next, the rear axle.

I have a good recon rear axle, I say recon I have checked the diff and it is very good.

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All of the cups are solid

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On with some new wheel bearings and the brake pipes

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New brake hardware

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and on the car it goes!

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The tie bar bushes were very very spongy so I sourced a new nos net from eBay, just waiting for them to arrive so I can finish everything off.

The front subframe needed a good clean so that came off

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I inspected the body and it is solid as a rock!

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Whist the subrame was out I sprayed the underside of the transmission tunnel

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and fitted the front brakes

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One clean subframe back in with new bushes

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Front brakes and brake lines fitted

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Everything just needs torquing up.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:30 am 
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Finally, the main loom.

I was dong a wiring inspection and found that the sidelight circuit on the main loom had basically melted!

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There is evidence of previous repairs to the circuit, here and a bad splice in the front sidelight wire. I think these plus a bad earth caused the voltage to drop so low that the ampage was pushed too high for the wire to cope with and it subsequently burnt out.

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I took the opportunity to pull the whole main loom and give it a good clean at the same time checking it

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The damage is quite localised and is confined to a couple of wires so I cut them out and properly spliced in some new wire then re-wrapped the loom.

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Fitted back in the car with the heater blower, washer bottle and expansion tank it looks much better

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The next job was to fit the freshly painted headlamp panels, these have been screwed and riveted in position to allow them to be removed in the future.

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Then the rubber seals

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and the headlamp bowls

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Followed by the indicators, the bumper isn't fitted properly yet

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:44 am 
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Looking good James.

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Modified Dolomite Sprint MSO 662P VA485 1973 Mimosa Sprint
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:58 am 
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Thanks Tony,

There are some little bits of paintwork adjustments that need to be done on the nose, I will do those when I do the bonnet.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:21 am 
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James, I love your work and dedication to the cause! I always look forward to your updates, top man! A special mention for the quality and quantity of the photos that you post, excellent stuff!

Cheers
Keith


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 12:05 pm 
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I can only second what has been said above :D

I hope you are getting inspired Keith :lol: :lol:

Tony.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 10:35 pm 
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Oh you guys! :oops:

:D

With the help of my 18 month old son (who is happy to just sit in the drivers seat playing!) I have been buttoning up all the loose ends with the view that the last thing to do will be to refit the engine when it is ready.

The rear axle has been fitted with new tie bar bushes and hardware.

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The fuel tank is now fitted with the filler neck boot trim is now in and all fuel pipes plumbed and ready

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Clutch master is in, all the brake lines are plumbed and unions are tight ready to be filled and bled. Pretty much all of the electrics are connected and ready to be tested.

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I cleaned and fitted the rear badges!

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A couple of things are bugging me.

1 - Headlamps, sealed beam or halogen? At the moment the car is 100% original spec. But I have a halogen setup and am thinking of doing Jeroen's trick of hiding the relays in the column or behind the dash.

2 - Numberplates, I know this is probably a small thing to most people but I think it makes the car. I have the original plates but they are tatty and I think they let the car down. Shall I get a new period 1970's set like Binny's (RUK) and put the old ones in the boot?

What do people think?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:04 am 
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New plates. old ones in boot.
sealed beam or halogen? Doesn't matter, but relays are a MUST for every Dolly! It can be difficult to get halogens that have the correct look.
My sealed beams are very bright after a new stalk switch and Jeroen's relay mod.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 9:50 am 
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James, were you a plumber in a previous life? Superb pipework :D

Tony.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:02 am 
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My sealed beams are very bright after a new stalk switch and Jeroen's relay mod.
I second that. Get the original equipment working right before condemning it. My preferred place to hide the relays is behind the lights:
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Having the fuses and relays at the front of the car keeps all the runs as short as possible.

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1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:21 am 
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Yes, I'll get it up and running standard before doing anything.

I'll order some plates, they do look good.

Need a flasher as well.


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