The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 2:50 pm

All times are UTC




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: engine oil specification
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:28 pm 
whats the best engine oil to put in a 1500 fwd please


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 6:26 am 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Any decent brand of 20W50 should do the trick.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 6:50 am 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:26 am
Posts: 2473
Best? I would suggest miller's CSS 20/60. Holds excellent oil pressure and copes well with an engine being used hard. There is a motul oil that may be better still, but no experience myself.
However, if the car is not going to be driven hard or over long fast journeys, there are plenty of 20/50 oils that will cope just fine.

_________________
Clive Senior
Brighton


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:06 am 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2017 3:35 pm
Posts: 956
Location: Filey, North Yorkshire
I would say it depends on how you use the car.
In the 1500 Spitfire I generally use a "quality" 20w50 - millers etc.
HOWEVER when I run things like the CT RBRR (48 hours, 2000+ miles virtually non-stop) or the 10CR (4 days of hard climbing on Alpine passes) where the engine is going to be running warm for long periods I'll use either Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Penrite 20w60 classic light. Under those running conditions I think it's worth the extra £££ for the oil.

_________________
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:45 am 
Offline
TDC Cheshire Area Organiser

Joined: Wed May 17, 2017 6:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: NANTWICH.
https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils

This is worth a read :D I would also avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil :wary: It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.

Tony.

_________________
NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057 :bluewave:


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:36 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
Site Admin

Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:50 pm
Posts: 1890
Don't forget that Club members get discounts on oil at a number of suppliers, see the Club Discounts Forum.

_________________
Please note that I am simply a Forum administrator, so please do not contact me unless your question is regarding your Forum account. For general enquiries regarding the Club and its services (membership queries, questions about spares, lapdancing etc) please see https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... hp?t=20098

Are you enjoying using our forum? If so why not support the owners club which provides it by joining The Triumph Dolomite Club? Help us to preserve these great cars for future generations.
Club membership costs just £30 for one year or £55 for two years. See https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=37824 for details.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:45 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:20 pm
Posts: 1293
Location: Shetland / here & there
Quote:
https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils

This is worth a read :D I would also avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil :wary: It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.

Tony.
Agreed, something with a metric tonne of ZDDP in it it like Valvoline VR1 gets my vote for a modern oil, if you want a period perfect match for what the car left the factory with:
https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/classic-2 ... ine-oil-2/

_________________
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 1:48 am 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:48 pm
Posts: 1635
Quote:
https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils

avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil :wary: It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.

Tony.
As sold in most supermarkets, Asda, Tesco, B&Q etc. it will state on the bottle that it is recycled or blended oil. I bought a bulk load from B&Q which I use as a quick engine flush.
I use either Comma or Halfords classic 20/50 oil and despite many people saying your engine will explode and seize if you use it I've never had a problem.

_________________
Some people are like Slinky's, they serve no real purpose in life but bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 9:09 am 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Too much ZDDP can be bad just to confuse things. To be fair ZDDP is more important on engines with cam follower buckets than an OHV. However I agree, something half decent will do. I would avoid anything with seal swell additives though as these can just cause more problems.

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 11:38 am 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:20 pm
Posts: 1293
Location: Shetland / here & there
That's why I mentioned that basic 20/50 60's formulation as it would match a 60/50s design engine like the 1300/1500, the company themselves say ' A 20w50 is a simple oil to manufacture with a low additive range. If it was okay in the 50’s for a 50’s car, why wouldn’t it be okay today. Don’t fall into the trap of paying more for additives you don’t need.'

_________________
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:46 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:13 am
Posts: 3173
Location: The continent
My 1969 volvo 145 does like fresh oil very much and takes good care that it gets some regulary.

I do put in champion classic 20w50 because my local shop does sell. When i'm on my way and the low oil level light goes on in the corners, the one with the oil can on it, and there's not enough oil in the can in the boot i put in whatever is around or to buy at a tankstop. After a good drive with a hot engine I can tell by the same light what oil is in. With the champion the light never goes on at idle and some others, also 20w50 it goes on. There are some differences in the 20w50's. The champion oil is very cheap and low quality and quality is not needed because it has no time to detoriate in that engine but it isn't alway's the price that tells.

Jeroen

_________________
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 8:09 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:48 pm
Posts: 1635
Its also worth noting that the oil change interval is 6000 miles on a 1300/1500.

_________________
Some people are like Slinky's, they serve no real purpose in life but bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing, Google, Trendiction and 29 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited