Toledo 1976 - Starting from the front added Pics

[Toledo Man]

You need to check the condition of the points and the points gap. If you have to fit new parts keep the old ones just in case the new ones are faulty. There are some poor quality ignition parts out there. It is worth paying a bit extra for decent quality parts. These engines are really easy to get running without too much trouble.

[Chrispowell0813]

Thanks Toledoman. Have checked the gap and points. All look ok.

After the first round of testing and a set of helping hand. I've put the lead from the coil to the body. And still no spark so next thing new coil? Does that sound about right?

[Carledo]

With cap off, turn engine till points are open, switch on ignition and use circuit test light to check for feed at 1) coil +ve, 2) coil -ve and 3) non earth side of points.
No feed at 1), check ignition switch and wiring to coil
No feed at 2) but feed at 1) coil faulty, points not open correctly
No feed at 3) but feed at 2) bad lead from coil to dizzy, points not wired correctly, duff condenser.
Feed at 3) but no spark? Keep test light on 3) and turn engine till points are closed, light should go out, if it doesn't points are duff and probably condenser as well. Also check earth wire from dizzy base plate to dizzy body.
If in doubt (and they look pretty crusty!) put in new points and condenser they are not expensive.

Steve

[Chrispowell0813]

Thanks for the tips Steve. Going to run through those first thing and see what I can get from it. Think I need to go pick up a new meter too, mine I think is shot. Could do with a more accurate one anyway. I'll see about picking up a circuit test light too don't own one but could be useful.

Fingers crossed I'll have the engine going by Monday. The saga continues.

[Chrispowell0813]

Well after a morning of testing. Pretty sure that I can confirm that the coil is past its best that is for sure. Gone through the steps that Steve had said. And used them in conjunction with YouTube.

Can anyone give me a recommendation on which coil to buy? The Haynes manual that I have says to use a Lucus 16c6 which is fine. But the one that I've just pulled is a 15c6, I've no idea what the difference is between the two. I'm going to order new points and condenser at the same time to save on postage. Is there anything else that would be worth ordering if it's more that the coil and points?

I've also been trying to find the ballast resister but not 100% sure what I'm looking for. I have a small cylindrical piece that was coming of the coil not sure if that was it?

On the plus side I've got the Bonnet off which gives me a lot more space to work on things.

[Toledo Man]

I would add the dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads and a set of spark plugs and that is the ignition side sorted.

[Edin Dundee]

...
Can anyone give me a recommendation on which coil to buy?....

Look online for Accuspark, cheapest prices are direct from their website but lots of others sell them.
If your system is ballasted, you need the blue coil, 6 volts.
If your system is non ballasted you need the red coil, 12 Volts.
A '76 car should have the ballast built into the wiring, there is no separate resistor.
NOTE this is for 1850 and Sprint, I'm assuming a Toledo will be the same?

The round thingy is probably some sort of aftermarket suppressor or resistor, this would have been in the HT side? Whereas the ballast is on the low voltage side.

[Chrispowell0813]

Thanks Guys. Well that is my shopping list sorted. With any luck should get them all by the end of the week.

Guessing this is fairly normal for a car that has been sitting for some time?

[Chrispowell0813]

...
Can anyone give me a recommendation on which coil to buy?....

Look online for Accuspark, cheapest prices are direct from their website but lots of others sell them.
If your system is ballasted, you need the blue coil, 6 volts.
If your system is non ballasted you need the red coil, 12 Volts.
A '76 car should have the ballast built into the wiring, there is no separate resistor.
NOTE this is for 1850 and Sprint, I'm assuming a Toledo will be the same?

The round thingy is probably some sort of aftermarket suppressor or resistor, this would have been in the HT side? Whereas the ballast is on the low voltage side.

Guess that it could be. Just had another look at the Haynes manual and your correct the ballast is in the wiring. Spent all morning looking for a resister to measure. Haha

[Chrispowell0813]

So on the plus side parts arrived. Even tho they sent the wrong coil so I'll have to send that back now.

Fitted new dizzy cap, points and condenser +1 seem to be fitted ok

New symptom tho. I now have a red ignition light on when the ignition is on. Wondering if the battery could be low on charge? Can't seem to find anything to explain what it is.

Also a massive noob question. How can I turn the ignition whilst I'm looking at the engine?

[Chrispowell0813]

That and to add insult to injury one of the pins has just fallen off of the solenoid that leads to the coil. Guessing that's not going to help.

[Chrispowell0813]

So we are still going on the ignition front. Fitted new coil, dizzy cap, rotor arm, points, condenser and even a new solenoid.

Still not even sure if i've managed to test the system correctly. But with a circuit tester I get from ground to coil (light), ground to points closed (light) and ground to points open (no light). Not sure what else I could have missed. Have checked for a spark but still no luck. Maybe I'm just not seeing it. Feeling like a massive novice at the moment. What's next to check?

Next point was to strip down the carb and some new fuel but not even sure if that is the right step at the moment. Any Ideas?

[Toledo Man]

Don't touch the carb until you know the ignition is 100%. The first thing you need to do is to pull the king lead off at the dizzy cap and hold the terminal close to the engine block. Use a pair of insulated pliers to hold the lead to avoid getting and electric shock. Get a helper to turn the engine over on the starter. If there's power from the coil you will be getting a spark. If not then disconnect the wire on the +ve side of the coil and make sure there's 6v coming from that wire when the ignition is switched on. Did you get the correct coil? I've just had look in one of my workshop manuals (I only got rid of the Haynes) and you should have the Lucas 16C6 coil which is 6v. The ballast is built into the loom which is why you should be getting 6v into the coil with the ignition switched on and 12v when the starter motor is turning.

[Chrispowell0813]

Thanks Toledo Man, 100% sure its a 6v ballasted system, removed a 15c6 from her as she is right from the last set of toledo's produced. Tried sparking her from the King lead this evening. Didn't have any luck with a spark. I'll dig out the meter tomorrow and see what it's sending. Can't see any reason why not.

The only other thing new is the ignition light is staying lit. So not 100% sure what that means?

[Toledo Man]

The ignition light won't go out until the engine is running. Does it go out when you turn the ignition off? To test the coil you could run a wire direct from the +ve terminal of the battery to the +ve terminal on the coil. If the king lead sparks when the starter motor is turned then the coil is working. All my workshop manuals (including the BL one) say the coil is a Lucas 16C6. The ballast runs from an ignition fed live and the bypass wire comes from the starter solenoid which supplies 12v only when the starter motor is running. Both wires are connected to the +ve side of the coil.