Whats happened to me..................

[dollyboy]

Scott - how's this all going?<br>
<br>
Reason for asking, I am seriously contemplating using jigsaw to get my fast road spec engine rebuilt. <br>
<br>
Mark seems like a good bloke to me (although I've never met him), he's done me a detailed quote for all parts and labour, subject to revision when he gets the opportunity to check some of the bits i'd be issuing them with, i.e. cam, clutch, lightened and supposedly balanced flywheel etc. In black and white, it all looks exactly what im after. It appears he see's my mission objectives, and he's been very polite and helpful.<br>
<br>
It's unlikely that my motor will get the kind of work yours does, but thats not really the point. Obviously i'll service it regularly etc, and part of my mission is to make the car reliable by modern standards... <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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In light of the problems you've had, are they going out of their way to sort the problem and are you happy with the progress you're making?<br>
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I know this isnt a Watchdog type forum, but apart from their ads and what people have said on this board I have no experience dealing with them, and would be grateful for input along this line of thought...<br>
<br>
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[SprintV8]

Chatting to a old mate the other day and the subject turned round to Car's tere's a suprise,<br>
Anyway going back to our racing day's (Autocross Mini's) we were told by a engine builder never to use oversize bearing's (max 20thou) as the crank has a tendency to flex on the thicker but softer bearing's,<br>
<br>
I know there may be a problem obtaining standard crankshaft's for the Sprint but could it be the problem your having?.<br>
<br>


<p>1980 Dolomite Sprint V8 (Sprint's where never meant to sound this good?)<br>
1997 Vauxhall Calibra 2.0 16v SE8<br>
2003 Suzuki GSX1300R (The Yamaha R1 is indicating 190mph When the Busa flies past)<br>
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[Carsreunited]

You never know Phil. The same thing keeps cropping up from just about everyone I have spoke with and that is they think its an oil feed issue. I believe the sump design may have been an issue (Both problems occurred after spins on a right hand bend). <br>
<br>
I think for Fast Road and occasional track use, you will have no problems whatsoever with Mark. Let him build it with fresh components (or at least as fresh as possible). Although it has taken Mark time to get working on my 3rd engine rebuild, I would have been concerned if he had thrown it back together without changing anything. He obtained this Group 2 Sprint sump in Germany (for borrowing), I would imagine that alot of development went into getting it right which should help me.<br>
<br>
The other thing is, if you did have a problem with your engine and it turned out to be a similar problem to mine, you will have the power of using that in negotiating a resolution. I'm trying to be as neutral as possible with this advice. If anyone else has any opinions or suggestions for dollyboy then chip in.<br>
<br>
Scott<br>
<br>


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[dollyboy]

interesting stuff, and thanks for the input. given my lack of sprint engine experience, (and lack of engine experience in general I might add!), my guess is that the group 2 sump will simply be a different shaped beast. The purpose behind the 'new' shape being to minimise the effect of the oil sloshing over to one side when going through big sweeping corners, and potentially not being picked up by the pick up pipe ?! Hence possibly the root of the problem?<br>
<br>
Has anyone tried to mod / replace the pick up pipe rather than go to the extent of making a new sump? No idea which is easier, as the only sump experience ive had is welding patches onto my 1500 where it got bashed because the car was lowered to a stupidly low clearance, just simply to look 'cool' !! (i was 17 at the time!)<br>
<br>
Anyway, if that is the root of the problem, it is unlikely that my car will get that kind of 'work' very often.<br>
<br>
I need to make a decision on this V soon, so at the end of the day, considering limited options and my lack of deep engine experience, I think a Jigsaw rebuild is the way i'll be heading. All I need is a finished shell to put it in! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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cheers folks, and good luck with yours scott...<br>
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[dollyboy]

DOH!<br>
<br>
I've just been looking at other posts relating to this type of thing, all good stuff, and I think the answer might be in there somewhere...<br>
<br>


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[Carsreunited]

The sump has a larger capacity and 'wings' to do exactly as you have said.<br>
<br>
You can do alot worse than Jigsaw. I'm sure you will have a very nice engine once its all done. Mine is absolutely stonking when it was working!<br>
<br>
Scott

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[milesinfront]

I'm definately no authority, but thought I'd add some of my data....<br>
<br>
My engine internals are totally stock! My bottom end has thus far lasted 4 years of sprints and hillclimbs. My motor WONT rev over 6500 rpms...<br>
<br>
I have run 5w50 Mobil 1 since day one!<br>
Oil pressure runs at 40-50psi @ up to 100-115 deg C.<br>
Pressure at idle when hot is about 0-5psi.<br>
I don't run a cooler, have put my faith in synthetic oil....<br>
<br>
From what I've read, I don't think alternate oil feeding is the answer...

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[dollyboy]

scott, any more developments? can I e-mail you his quote to me, it will be a slightly lesser spec. than yours I'd guess, but maybe interesting for you all the same... pm address?<br>
<br>
how many dolly sprint engines have they done? must be quite a few, surely ?!<br>
<br>
I have to say I'm getting the willies about this now, but im not completely put off at this stage, would you have any objections if I mention my concerns about your saga to mark?<br>
<br>
Ref nitride treatment, of nitro-carburising, or whatever they call it, I'll also chip in that 5 yrs ago I had a 1380 mini engine done by MED in leicester, they nitride cranks on most engines they build. The bloke there (I forget his name) gave me a right load of tech spiel and included in that, he said apart from hardening and improving wear performance, it also helps reduce friction, so well worth doing. I passed this motor on about a year ago, and have no idea what happened to it, but as far as i know, it went like a dream and still is.<br>
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My first choice was to get MED to do the engine, but he doesnt like dollies or their engines, and even after I've parted with not much short of 3k with him, as a true political ambassador for not slating someones choice of car, follows on to say "they're more trouble than they're worth", "triumph engines never any good" blah, blah, blah <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >: --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/mad.gif ALT=">:"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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"yeah ok mate, WHATEVER, at least being 6ft and 15 stone, which isnt far off average, I can fit in a dolly without banging my head on the roof, I dont have to steer with my knees, and theres enough room in the boot for more than my lunch box"<br>
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[Carsreunited]

Yeah, no problem.<br>
<br>
gelsthorpe at hushmail dot com<br>
<br>
Sprintparts swear by Nitriding cranks and reckon their bearing reliability seems to have improved as a direct consequence.<br>
<br>
Why don't you make an offer for the engine that is in Mark's TR7 Sprint racer that he was trying to sell on ebay? We did 90 laps of Mallory in that no problem around the 60 second a lap region. It pulls better than mine did. A few minor differences. Mine cost just over 5k. (Hence the reason why I want it to work).<br>
<br>
Scott

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[Dolly racer 33]

Hi, having read all the posts on this subject imho there is some sensible info & some rubbish quoted. If you are interested in my input read on.<br>
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In 17yrs of Dolomite racing I have never come across an oil feed problem to the crank. <br>
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My oil pump is totally standard. I strip the pump 1st to ensure there is no swarf lodged internally. My oil pressure maxes @ 60psi. I have an additional oil feed to the camshaft.<br>
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I use Millers Classic Sport 20/50 motor oil. This is semi synthetic & what the Sprint engine was designed to use. Fully synthetic oil is a waste of money & not suited to classic engines. <br>
<br>
Never use a crank in a performance engine that is ground more than 0.030" . Always nitride/tuftride the crank & then micropolish.<br>
<br>
An oil cooler is adviseable. Ensure the pipes & unions to/from the cooler are of adequate size. A road spec system usually is unsuitable for competition.<br>
<br>
A freudenberg damper is only necessary over 7,200 rev/min. Then is only good to 7,600. After this the block needs studding & bracing. Then it is good to over 9,500 <br>
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I am certain to have missed out something. If you need any help please ask.<br>
<br>
Ken.

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[Dolly racer 33]

Knew I had forgotten something. <br>
<br>
Sump is standard apart from a single anti splash plate. I used to use a Broadspeed spec sump which I built but all it did was take 10 litres to fill instead of 5.

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[Carsreunited]

So if I had been experiencing oil surge due to a sump design that had been baffled or plated incorrectly, in your experience it wouldn't cause any bearing failure?<br>
<br>
(BTW Ken, I have mentioned a few things which I recall us speaking about, feel free to correct anything that isn't totally correct.)<br>
<br>
Scott

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[Dolly racer 33]

If you had been suffering oil surge then of course this can lead to bearing failure. However you should notice marks on all the other shells as well.<br>
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I have to say that if there are no other witness marks on the other shells then I would suspect the ingress of a foreign body (dirty build). There is little point in looking for complicated reasons why 2 failures have occurred if this is the case.

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[Carsreunited]

The other shells looked fine. No blueing either which I'm led to believe is a sign of oil starvation. Maybe it is as you say. I don't think it can be purely bad luck on my part. Will see what happens with the Mk 3 engine! I'm going to get a decent number of laps in on a few track days before I start throwing money at race entry fees.<br>
<br>
I'm pretty sure my oil cooler and pipes are road spec. What would you recommend in terms of pipe bore? I'm going to put a new cooler, pump and pipes in so might as well try something different based on your experience.<br>
<br>
Scott

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[Dolly racer 33]

hi, you need to use 5/8" bore pipe. Ensure all your fittings & cooler are also of suitable size. Minimum 19 row cooler. You only need to use a good quality 20/50 motor oil. I use Millers Classic Sport. Maximum oil temperature should be no more than 115 degrees centigrade.

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