unleaded settings
unleaded settings
What timing and other settings should I use on a 1300 dolly still as standard and unconverted? Can I get away with no additive or is going to catch up with me soon?
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Re: unleaded settings
There are mixed views on this. Personally, If i was doing journeys with extended high rpm periods, I would use one. For pootling around town, I wouldn't bother.<br>
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Re: unleaded settings
Here's my view:<br>
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Back the timing off 2 degrees if it's pinking, which it won't because its a low-ish compression engine.<br>
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Check your valve clearances every 2000 miles and adjust where necessary.<br>
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Every time you fill up with unleaded fuel, drop two pounds in the glovebox instead of using additive. That way, when you find that your valves have recessed too far, you can whip off the head, empty your glovebox and get it converted at your friendly head-shop. Plus you'll have some money left over, for some cigarettes maybe? Or a weekend away with the Missus. Lovely jubbly.<br>
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Jod<br>
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>
<br>
Back the timing off 2 degrees if it's pinking, which it won't because its a low-ish compression engine.<br>
<br>
Check your valve clearances every 2000 miles and adjust where necessary.<br>
<br>
Every time you fill up with unleaded fuel, drop two pounds in the glovebox instead of using additive. That way, when you find that your valves have recessed too far, you can whip off the head, empty your glovebox and get it converted at your friendly head-shop. Plus you'll have some money left over, for some cigarettes maybe? Or a weekend away with the Missus. Lovely jubbly.<br>
<br>
Jod<br>
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>
what are settings?
the engine has started pinking, or at least that what I am assuming it is. I am getting a loud noise when the engine is under load like a tin can being dragged under the car.<br>
Never had it before as even back in the eighties my cars wer kept tuned properly<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Anyway what is the dynamic setting for the 1300 engine and at what revs and with or without vac attached?<br>
I have tried setting it with the manual statically but is is still doing it, always preferrred the dynamic method anyway as less prone to error
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Never had it before as even back in the eighties my cars wer kept tuned properly<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Anyway what is the dynamic setting for the 1300 engine and at what revs and with or without vac attached?<br>
I have tried setting it with the manual statically but is is still doing it, always preferrred the dynamic method anyway as less prone to error
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Re: what are settings?
Sounds a bit extreme for pinking, which is usually more of a tinny rattle than a 'tin can under the car' sound. I'd have a quick butchers at the oil pressure if you can get access to a gauge..<br>
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Aim for 10 degrees BTDC at 700-800 RPM with vac advance disconnected. Then retard from there if necessary.<br>
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You may find that the pinking (if that's what it is) is caused by the bloody waxstat jet leaning-off the mixture too much in this hot weather.<br>
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Jod<br>
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>
<br>
Aim for 10 degrees BTDC at 700-800 RPM with vac advance disconnected. Then retard from there if necessary.<br>
<br>
You may find that the pinking (if that's what it is) is caused by the bloody waxstat jet leaning-off the mixture too much in this hot weather.<br>
<br>
Jod<br>
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>
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Yes.....
If this is the case pulling the choke a little should stop it...If it does you want it a bit richer. <br>
Jonners
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Jonners
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found it, i think
After going over the engine settings with a fine tooth comb and finding nothing wrong I ruled out the motor. <br>
It has got worse, bad enough that i could duplicate it when stationary so I could track it to.....................<br>
the exhaust!<br>
the baffle is loose in the centre box and resonates at certain frequencies like a tin can rattling in a box.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
So since the middle section is unavailable i need to cut it open, repair and reweld shut. A nice job for tomorrow night, not!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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It has got worse, bad enough that i could duplicate it when stationary so I could track it to.....................<br>
the exhaust!<br>
the baffle is loose in the centre box and resonates at certain frequencies like a tin can rattling in a box.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
So since the middle section is unavailable i need to cut it open, repair and reweld shut. A nice job for tomorrow night, not!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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- Posts: 1311
- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:28 pm
Nah...
leave it...<br>
It wil soon shake itself to bits and disappear out the back in a mist of iron filings...<br>
Worth 5 bhp...<br>
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Jonners
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It wil soon shake itself to bits and disappear out the back in a mist of iron filings...<br>
Worth 5 bhp...<br>
<br>
Jonners
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Re: Nah...
I agree with Jonners on this one, its best left. <br>
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If you slice-open a silencer that's started to break-up inside, you'll find that the body of the silencer is so close to rotting-out that you'll never be able to weld it up again unless you have some seriously good TIG gear...<br>
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Jod
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>
<br>
If you slice-open a silencer that's started to break-up inside, you'll find that the body of the silencer is so close to rotting-out that you'll never be able to weld it up again unless you have some seriously good TIG gear...<br>
<br>
Jod
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>
seems solid
The box seems solid, in fact it is as solid as when new and still is silver coloured like a new box.<br>
The rattle is a bit loud to put up with for any length of time, it is like dragging a tin can on a string behind me at times<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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The rattle is a bit loud to put up with for any length of time, it is like dragging a tin can on a string behind me at times<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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fixed
Drilled a 35mm hole and fished out the 3inch square loose baffle and rewelded up the box.<br>
Noise now gone, job done!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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Noise now gone, job done!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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