Chassis Rail...

[redrichie]

Chassis rail still to be welded in. I'm a little concerned that welding upside down (ie: car on a four post lift) isn't going to get the penetration needed, not to mention look like a bag of sh!t. I'm thinking maybe hiring or borrowing a car roller, or is there an easier way around this?

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[SprintMWU773V]

Definately worth hiring one though not sure how it would work on your car given that presumably the suspension and subframe is off so you can't attach it to the hubs? You can get them that bolt onto bumper mountings but having seen the state of by inner valance I wouldn't go near one.

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[redrichie]

Thats what I was thinking...can i drop the subframe, put the rail on, bolt subframe back on and then use the hub-roller?<br>
<br>
Its a chicken/egg scenario....

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[alun n]

Four post lift should be more than adequate, we've done them lying on our backs!

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[redrichie]

Well, I am willing to have a go, not bothered about being covered in molten steel, was more interested in the penetration of the weld, but if you have done a few and reckon its possible, I'll have a bash.<br>
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Now, I was going to tack it in place firstly, ensure alignment is good etc, but shall i just seam weld it, or do some nice big spot welds every inch or so on the shoulder? Spots would look far neater, and lets face facts, this is how it was done at the factory....<br>
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Asking for advice here, don't want to mess this up to be honest..<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[alun n]

To be honest, there is a bit of twist in the pattern, so we used about 4 clamps to align the rail with the gear box mount bracket holes and also the subframe mount. We had the subframe undone at the rear, loosened at the front and dangling. Once we thought we were about right we offered the subframe back up to the rail even to the point of dropping the bolt in from above to make sure it all lined up...then we did it again...twice.<br>
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The result was when the frame was finally offered up it all fit sweet as a nut.<br>
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You will find it useful to cut a small triangle out of the rail where it cusps around the floor pan toward the rear of the rail as this allows you to slide the rail back and fore a little to get the tolerance right. Then piece it back in again when you've fully seamed it.<br>
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We tacked it on in about 4 places before finally offer checking the subframe just in case, and then went for it.<br>
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One we fit needed an adjustment to the angle of the tube; long screwy was a good tool for that fed through the tube and manually tweeked...

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[Jod Clark]

If your welder is set up properly for the application, penetration will be perfect. Upside-down is tricky but perfectly do-able if you know what you're at.<br>
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Jod

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[redrichie]

I should really grow some balls sometimes, and have a little faith in my own ability.<br>
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Chassis Rail went on like a dream, am having a break for lunch, smoothing a couple of weld bobbles down, then painting this afternoon.<br>
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[algtj]

Nice one Ritchie! See you at and the car at TDCIR?

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[redrichie]

Hopefully, just need to do the rear screen surround <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :| --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/indifferent.gif ALT=":|"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> , tidy up the paintwork, fit the black interior, give her a full service and then she'll be ready for the MOT man to tell me what work I need to do....<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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