Oil Pressure issues

[Jon Tilson]

Thinking about it twenty seconds is a long time to run a starter...maybe I meant twenty revs of the crankshaft...<br>
Jonners<br>
<br>


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[BDN712V]

It's been a while since I wrote anything on this one, but am now facing up to the inevitable bottom end rebuild. The rattle upon startup is now very noticable, as is the quietening down immediately after the light goes out...<br>
<br>
SO - how can I tell which bearing shells are required for the crankshaft, or is it a case of dismantle, get reground and then fit as required? Also, what else should I be on the look out for (other than a replacement engine...!)?<br>
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Cheers,<br>
Tim

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[MaddMart]

Look at the bearings for signs of scoring. It's usually pretty obvious which bearings are naf. If any bearings have had it, regrind the crankshaft to the next size & get a complete new set of mains & big ends to suit.

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[SMIFTER]

Silvery<br>
<br>
What your thinking of is is an oil pressure accumulator - a piston used to maintain normal working pressure when cold cranking or under surge conditions. <br>
<br>
Have a look at http://www.thinkauto.com for details, they are about £200 upwards though - how does that compare to the cost of new bearings and a reground crank??

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[Silvery]

Someone told me a crank regruind's about 70 quid.. Bearings are 15 quid a set b/e, plus 15 quid mains... Over the life of the car the 1500 engines are IMO, weak.. So 200 odd quid might not be such a bad expenditure to prevent quite so many bottem end probs! Shame it's out of my range, but once I'm running a 1300 lump in the auto, and get my hands on a 2l for the red TC, it's not so much of an issue for me <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> Might be handy for others with the 1500 lump though?<br>
<br>
As for which bearings are shot - I'd really take a look at the crank first - Big end rattle's easy enough to work out with the engine running, but as I found, you can buy a set of shells, drop the sump, and find the crank's shafted anyway... I put the shells on, but it's only a temp few hundred mile fix really, getting as bad again now, after 600 miles of slow driving <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Best bet if you can afford it and have a decent place to get it done near you (I don't) is porlly to get the crank reground and checked over first, then get bearings to suit and reassemble. That way you've got some peace of mind that the bottom end is all nicely bearinged and fresh <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>


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[george]

how many of you are having the crank nitrided after regrinding the cranks wern't very well hardened from new <br>
we even from new nitrided we estimated the hardened<br>
part of the crank was no more than about 10 thou thick<br>
so you had nothing after a regrind !!!

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