The Triumph Dolomite Club - EzBoard Archive

OK...Here goes...<br>
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On my new Sprint (<!--EZCODE UNDERLINE START--><span style="text-decoration:underline"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>1 day old</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE UNDERLINE END-->), I have two problems that are making smooth driving quite difficult.<br>
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1. The clutch has about 1" movement from floor-pan before it bites - and Oh does it bite!! <br>
<!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Question</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END-->: is there anyway to give more control? The Clutch was replaced about 20,000 miles ago (Jan 2000). <br>
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2. The throttle cable is stretched - and therefore difficult to control (the previous owner had a very heavy right foot!!). Also the carbs do not go back to idle when foot is taken off peddle - this can be resolved by giving the peddle a "blib".<br>
<!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Question</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END-->: where is the best place to get a new throttle cable and card spring kit?<br>
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I expect I will be using this forum for a little while until I can find out where to go and what to do - in anticipation of your help, I thank you all.<br>
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ANDREW<br>


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Clutch - Sprints can be a bit fierce, and offten a bit juddery. One will soon develop the technique of 'juggling' with clutch and throttle to get a smooth engagement, often known as blipping the throttle, people think we do it cos of the sports exhaust note, but we sprint drivers know diff <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> . There is no adjustment, but first check to see if either the Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder is starting to leak. Second thing is that the operating rod's wear where the clevis pins go through, thus giving a bit more slack in the overall system. These can often be 'tidied' up by a bit of welding or welding some strong washers to the forks and using a slightly linger clevis pin, but often better to find a better condition used item. Third is the B'box cross shaft, check the weld on 'lever to shaft'

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Before replacing the springs on the throttle return, it is worth lubricating the throttle linkage rods. You often find that where the throttle buterfly rods emerge from the sides of the carbs, things are a bit gungy. Worth carefully cleaning with some white spirit/carb cleaner and then oiling them. Check also the 'linkage contraption' where the throttle cable connects. The rollers often sieze and become sliders instead of rollers. Difficult to correct, but taking the thing of, degreasing and soaking overnight in penetrating oil can sometimes cure the problem (for a while <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) . You will see that the throttle cable has some adjustment here, assuming you cable is not adjusted to the max already. Enjoy Sat morning messing and Sat afternoon drving <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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If you do you'll be doing better than I have Andrew - had mine 6 weeks now and still not driven it since I got it home! <br>
I always end up thinking 'I'll just do this then I'll tax it'. Only to follow that with 'well I suppose I should do so & so while it's up in the air' Somehow seem destined to spend my life under it rather than in it.<br>
But then, t'was ever so, that is half the fun of a Sprint!!!<br>
<br>
enjoy

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub52.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdol ... club>Chris Field</A> at: 6/9/03 11:01 am<br></i>

Andrew - replace the throttle cable - when mine was on SU's it had quite an appetite for stretching and snapping cables. Most motor factors should be able to sell you a cable for about a fiver. The throttle linkage can be quite heavy on SU's (it was on that car in Gloucester).<br>
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Also check the metal is sound where the pedal assembly is bolted to the bulkhead - they have been known to split metal here which can give an uneven pedal movement.<br>
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If thats your only problems your doing very well indeed! <br>
<br>
Graeme<br>
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<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

check your dashpot oil levels, that can cause a reluctance to return to idle,.............solvable with a blip

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the design is crap in my opinion all sorts of crud falls into the top of the cable including water and the cable life is quite short a blob of vaseline wher the cable comes out of the liner [helps prevent this. I haven't forgotten driving home from London with a pair of molegrips on the end of cable leaning under the dash!

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Mentioning Vaseline after some of the recent postings <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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Especially if doing up shoe laces<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

well a sealant of some type then...

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