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Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:28 pm
by dollysteve
Last time I drove the 1300 it had a propensity to get a little hot under the collar in slow moving traffic and whilst stationary. I`m planning on looking in to the fault this weekend but I would like some guidance if at all poss. <br>
I plan to change the coolant but I was wondering if there was a drain plug on the block like there is on the OHC cars as I would like to flush the block through, hopefully this, and a new thermostat and coolant will help keep thing cool, the auxillary cooling system does appear to make a differnce when it`s deployed. What are peoples thoughts on using Holts rad flush and the like are they a no no on these. I have used them in the past with varied results but never on a triumph.<br>
As always any help is much appreciated.
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Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:07 pm
by 1300dolly
hi steve, there should be a drain on the block as the blocks are the same. i used a rad flush in mine last month, i think that was holts, in a blue plastic bottle. done the job ok.<br>
<br>
Justyn
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Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:38 pm
by Nathan MWK 627G
hiya steve iv also got a 1300 fwd and it also gets hot in traffic or when its stationary, iv changed the coolent on her and it did help a little bit....then i noticed the water pump had play in the bearings..not much but iv changed the pump and helped alot but she still sits at just over 1/2 way on the temp gauge........i havent drove it over this hot spell we are having as iv been away the past 2 weekends so cant say what its like in this weather!! <br>
<br>
let us know hao you get on!! <br>
<br>
<br>
1968 1300 fwd
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Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:44 pm
by tinweevil
Look below the pot 4 manifold ports, there is one below the pot 6 ports on the stretched block.<br>
<br>
I tried the heavier duty 2 part flush on the gt6, it did no harm.<br>
<br>
Julian
<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, current daily drive.</p><i></i>
Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:01 am
by dollysteve
Sounds like the way forward then. I`ll give it a go, will also check out the water pump too.<br>
<br>
Cheers<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=
http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p></p><i></i>
Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 11:27 am
by dollysteve
On a slightly different note, it does also collect water in the footwells. I have ordered a new windscreen seal thinking this is the most likeley source of the leak but I also wonderes if there were any drain holes anywhere that might be causing the problem, also with regard to windscreen fitting should I be using sealant aswell.
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Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 12:06 pm
by tinweevil
Screen seal is most likely, Orange and Blue both leak here despite both seals looking A1. The one in Blue is only 10 years old. Yes do use sealant.<br>
<br>
There are drainage slots that should be keeping the channel in front of the screen empty. If these block it can puddle and run in through the eyeball vents. The drains are 3 slots into the engine bay, left middle and right. They are not at all easy to spot.<br>
<br>
All assuming the fwd bodywork is the same here as the dolly.<br>
<br>
Julian<br>
<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="
http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, current daily drive.</p><i></i>
Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:27 pm
by 1300dolly
the 1300fwd does not have eyeball vents , the front end and dash is different,. the 1500 fwd shares the same bodyand dash as dollys.<br>
<br>
J.
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Re: Hot 1300fwd
Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:11 pm
by mbellinger
Steve,<br>
<br>
I would reverse flush your rad usuing a powerful hose pushed into bottom hose connection of radiator. All the crap will rise out of the filler neck. <br>
<br>
Check all hoses (the small right angle hoses just behind the carbs love to leak and weep).<br>
<br>
For some reason the heater matrix also has a propensity to clog up on FWD's - a reverse flush here with the lever set at the hot position on the control panel should throw out all sorts of crud.<br>
<br>
Refill the system carefully using a good quality antifreeze such as Bluecol. Do not use Halfords own brand kack or similar. Fill through the filler neck on the rad. Take the car for a 15-20 minute drive, stop and top up as required.<br>
<br>
My 1300 FWD has had these simple steps and new hoses via the Club. The needle sits at one third normally, rising to a needle width under half in very heavy queueing, even in this heatwave.<br>
<br>
With regards to the water ingress - this will almost certainly be one of two sources, both of which have been mentioned above. The first is the screen seal in the very lower corners. The seals are at best a poorish fit - you might like to try some "seek and Seal", by Comma or similar product. If you do, do not get it anywhere near your wiper blades.<br>
<br>
The other place is via the bulkhead as Julian suggests. The bulkhead differs in detail on the FWD compared to the Dolly, and there are no eye ball vents, but the drain holes are present and invariably block up. I pulled the dash out of a FWD in a breakers yard a year or so ago to find extensive bulkhead rot hidden behind the dash and carpets, etc. Regrettably, this is not uncommon.<br>
<br>
Good luck mate.
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
1975 Triumph 1500TC Auto<br>
1989 Honda Civic 1300 Auto<br>
2006 Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Auto<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
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