The Triumph Dolomite Club - EzBoard Archive

Hello All<br>
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I have been having some problems with cooling in my Dolomite 1850. Can anyone offer some advice on my situation?<br>
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<!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Background:</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--><br>
I have recently had a leaky water pump replaced which has resolved some of my cooling problems. No leaks at least. As part of this process my cooling system has recieved a few thourough flushes. I have also been told that my radiator seems to be in pretty good condition. Also, I can confirm my fan does work.<br>
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<!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>The Situation</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--><br>
Sunday was very hot (as I'm sure you all know). On my 130 mile return journey from Birmingham to Leeds, I struggled to keep the needle under 3/4 unless I traveled at 55 MPH. Most of the journey was done at around 65 MPH with the needle staying almost all the way to 3/4 the whole drive. Given the heat and the motorway driving, should this be a concern?.....<br>
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Upon exiting the motorway I promptly found myself in stand still traffic. Turned the heater on full, but the tempurature reading increased, and was heading to a full temp reading on the guage. I was anticipating this and it did not provide any great surprise for me. I pulled over and let things cool down promptly with no great drama. With water and fan belt confirmed as Okay and I carried on in traffic with the needle reading just a hair over dead centre. <br>
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<!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>The Question</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--><br>
It has been very hot, and I am not expecting my cooling system to perform like a modern car, but is the situation I described something I should be concerned about? Should I conclude that there is something wrong with my cooling system if it likes to creep above a middle reading on very hot days? Or should I just keep an eye on the temp needle allow for cooling breaks as needed? <br>
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In short, Should I just expect my Dolomite to overheat under the conditions I described?<br>
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All suggestions and comments are greatly appreciated?<br>
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Many Thanks<br>
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Chris

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No. My dolly 1850 is TR7 powered, with a fast road cam shaft and a water leak (out of the inlet manifold to head joint). It was bloody boiling and the car was 4 up and the boot was full of beer. At 70 mph it was fine, sitting just above mid way (it never used to get this high until I messed with it!) Only when I was doing 85 mph for 2 minutes did it rise! And before I'd messed with the engine it wouldn't rise above half way!<br>
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Ignition timing way off?

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Doesn't seem to be performing as it should be, no. <br>
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My 1850 auto would sit in traffic in 30 degree heat only just nudging near and above the halfway mark, if you sat there for 15 minutes at a time. Never, ever, ever got above or near the 3/4 mark. I'd never like to be above that! It's damned hot in there and I'd hate to think of what stresses it put the engine under....<br>
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That's all the useful information I can add at this time...wine and mint tea......long story <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START |I --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tired.gif ALT="|I"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>

I've got an electronic ignition that seems to be working great. <br>
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Does this rule out ignition timing as a cause for overheating?<br>
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Thanks<br>
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Chris

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If it's one of the Aldon Igniter, Newtronic or Lucas systems, no - they replace the points etc and you can still set/adjust the timing as normal. <br>
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(Please correct me if that's incorrect)

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig2.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>

Its a Lumenatronic ignition.<br>


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That's what I mean to say, I was doing all in my power to stop saying "Lucas" yet I still did <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig2.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>

what happens when you turn the heater on? does it (the heater) run hot?

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Yup. Heater seems to kick out some pretty good heat under the conditions as described and otherwise.<br>
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Thanks<br>
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Chris

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have you tried bleeding the system through the thermostat housing? Have you replaced the sender at all (they can do haywire things) New stat?

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check the thermostat in a saucepan. It may be a bit slow to open...<br>
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They do vary a bot but on the whole I would say a good dolly should never get to the last mark....if it does its time to stop and check before damage is done. Mine all sit around the half way mark.<br>
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Air locks would be the other thing to check in your case as its all just been done... With it cold you need to get all the bubbles out by squeezing the top hose. They will come out in the expansion bottle which should be half full and then suck back in coolant. Keep squeezing all hoses til the bubbles have gone.<br>
Jonners

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I know its hot but, if you've got an old voltage stabalizer its probably had it and not giving a steady 10volts.<br>
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I had a similar probablem to find I was'nt as hot as I thought, the club do an electronic version

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Sounds a bit stupid but always works for me:<br>
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Pop the bonnet in hot conditions whilst on the move and it will let the hot air out a lot quicker, the bonnet will not fly open of course as it is hinges at the front - works every time for me.

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Thank you Alan. I have read the previous thread on the "pop the bonet" cooling method. It's good to have some confirmation of its effectiveness.<br>
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I was thinking I might attempt this at lower speeds. However,I might wimp out at motorway speeds. <br>
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Thanks<br>
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Chris

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hi - my experience was the voltage stabiliser - 2 years creeping along ever mindful of the temp gauge - changed everything except the voltage stabiliser as it was 'new'. Then I asked around on here and ritchie I think it was suggested putting a meter on the stabiliser - 13volts - I fitted an electronic one at 10:00v dead on and the car runs merrily at half on the gauge!<br>
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Ah well you live and learn.<br>


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