The Triumph Dolomite Club - EzBoard Archive

I recently looked a the full sill panels that Rimmers are having made up. They arn't brilliant, but are nearer the correct profile. Are the club ones the correct v at the bottom or flattened off. If the latter, is ther any mileage in getting the correct ones made?

<p></p><i></i>

The Club ones have a flat underside, the V serves no immediately apparent purpose and as the club panel fits very well indeed there are no plans to change the profile.

<p></p><i></i>

As a person trained in this aera, I would disagree. There is a reason for the vee, stiffness, especially as the jacking stiffeners are in the area. it also means you can't do local repairs easily. From originallity, it looks awful too. Looking at the price of them, I think, for not much more, a specalist wll be able to make up the correct section. I think I will look into it, anyone else interested?

<p></p><i></i>

no

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>

<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
dont beat about the bush jod.<br>
<br>
in all seriousness, i had my hands on a pair of original stanpart sills. in order to fit them you need to take the wings off. club sills dont suffer from that. in hindsight I shouldnt have sold them as the wings are coming off project orange anyway, but even selling them at less than half price I still got more for them than the club ones cost. (theres some maths in that somewhere ?!)<br>
<br>
engineer hat on, given the profile of the panel as a whole, the amount additional rigidity created by those "V's" or channels may be noticeable on the scale but in the scheme of things probably insignificant. better off seam welding plates across the seat mount to the floor.<br>
<br>
sorry, im with jod<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>

You are welcome to investigate; I do not purport to have a monopoly, neither does the aftermarket panel specialist who makes them. The loss of 'V' is more than compensated by the increased gauge of metal; think about how the panel (in conjunction with stiffener and inner section) works both in normal use and in incidence of accident; normal use the 'V' does nothing as the load transference is vertical so a horizontal element will not react to those loads, side impact and it will actually encourage the panel(s) to buckle, front or rear impact it will contribute negligible stiffness in proximity to the three panel weld and again could infact encourage the metal to buckle.<br>
<br>
To create the 'V' so close to the roll and other folds required you are likely to need a press tool manufacturing. If you can do this ,create the cills in good thick metal and retail them at a workable price then fill your boots.<br>
<br>
The 'V' is also of course a trap for crud to accumulate which causes poultice corrosion.<br>
<br>
Personally I cannot tell a well fitted pattern cill from original unless I feel beneath for the recess...as for jacking points I only use subframe, axle or suspension arm

<p></p><i></i>

Given I have no test 'data' I can't say which is best. What I can say is that as our cars get older and older, we have to rely upon more and more remanufactured items. Original 'press tools' are long gone and tooling up takes time and money.<br>
<br>
No project is impossible for the person who doesn't have to do it.<br>
<br>
A concourse restorer or perfectionist may well appreciate a sill that is closer to the original. <br>
<br>
If anyone wants to do all the legwork to identify source of supply, logistics and costs, let us know and we will look at listing both types, members will then have choice.<br>
<br>
Alun & Malc won't mind, we need all the help we can get, we do what we can, when we can, so offers of assitance are always weclome <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
What has often occured to me, a pressed closing section for behind the wing so save fabrication might be useful, to save people having to fabricate, so perhaps this could be explored at the same time that you are investigating the v pressing. don't forget that the v channel doesn't run full length, there are a few flat spots IIRC, so if we are going for originality, best get it 100% <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... >MalcGE</A>  <IMG HEIGHT=10 WIDTH=10 SRC="http://www.triumphowners.com/uploaded/3 ... ic2004.jpg" BORDER=0> at: 24/6/06 9:18 am<br></i>

A 'quick fit' sill as mentioned earlier is generally the way to go. Getting the correct setion fabricated, ie the vee, is not that hard if you are forming the section, ie set of swage rollers. From a point of view, the Rimmer full section ones are fabricated wth the vee, so it isn't that hard. I agree, some repair sections for behind the wing would be useful, as the rear inner arch section. As for fitting the full sill, I would agree its mostly pointless. A pressing tool for the volumes I / we need could not be justified. I was looking at had fabrication. I'm investigating having some parts wheeled up for my 1938 Austin, to which there are on 16 left in the world. IOts interesting to note the Austin 10 Drivers' Club and specialists have many panel profiles on stock, ready for those who want them made, including the running board profile, which is far more complicated than any sill I have seen, and they are reasonably priced. Therefore, for those like me who like to put the correct profile on if at all possible, thos would not be impossible. Another point, not to fuel an arguement re originallity vs keeping a car on the road, I have looked at many of a car recently, one with the original sill, the other woith a quick fit! How daft does that look!

<p></p><i></i>

Yes, I bet that looks jolly daft. Of course, being able to see both left and right sills at the same time makes the daftness oven more dafter.<br>
<br>
Almost as daft as the person crawling around on the floor to check them out.<br>
<br>
I think most Dolomite owners have bigger fish to fry. I certainly do.<br>
<br>
Jod

<p></p><i></i>

That maybe your opinion, as is the regard to the stiffness of the profile. Thank you for your valued input. Some people like to srive to keep cars how they ber designed structurally and therefore strive at oportunities to look into other (sometimes) better ways in maintaining a car in this way. Your input has been nothing but negative. I usually find if you have nothing constructive to say, don't bother!<br>
<br>
For your interest: Ass. Inst Automotive Eng Assessors (BD), Member of the Inst of Road Transport Eng, Society of Operation Engineers, Expert in Specialist vehicle construction, including chassis construction and alteration.

<p></p><i></i>

<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>For your interest: Ass. Inst Automotive Eng Assessors (BD), Member of the Inst of Road Transport Eng, Society of Operation Engineers, Expert in Specialist vehicle construction, including chassis construction and alteration. <hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br>
<br>
Oh, in that case then, vee it up!<br>
<br>
But my seam-welded pattern replacement ones with no vee are stronger than any original sill ever was, because it isn't made out of old italian fridges. I somehow doubt ones of the 'correct' profile could be done for anywhere near the price of the perfectly satisfactory ones currently supplied by the club. This is why Rimmers still have them in stock.<br>
<br>
When a Sprint fetches the same sort of money as an RS2000 or a Lotus Sunbeam it may be worth doing, until then, just pop on a pair of club replacements, although I doubt they will have rusted by the time you can flog the result of your restoration for above five grand.<br>
<br>
Negative, maybe. I'll take that on the chin. Just remember, many people have expended a lot of time and effort to make decent repair sections available at a sensible price. I hope they haven't been too upset by your criticism of their efforts.<br>
<br>
Good morning.<br>
Jod

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.towingandleisure.co.uk/images/bash.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>

my 2pee....<br>
if the club did not receive negative criticism nothing would get done because all would assume that eveyone was happy with a piece of work be it good or bad.eveyone is entitled to their own point of view and as long as that does harm the receiver then it is should be allowed.<br>
just think how boring this world would be if no one argued.<br>
<br>
Justyn

<p></p><i></i>

I think that's why Jod's here <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

Just to add... I turned up at TDCIR last year with a newly fitted unpainted Club cill on KDU. The pressures of self employment have taken their toll time wise this last year as I now have two employees and business has taken off. As a result the cill remains unpainted; the car lives outside 365 days a year. I fully intend to turn up at TDCIR 2006 with it in the same state to prove the quality of what has been made. Maybe I could do the same on the other side next year with a Rimmer supplied cill as a comparison test...but then I doubt it would pass its MOT next September and I'd not be able to bring it afterall due to excessive corrosion in the cill! <br>
<br>
Originality vs innovation? You pay your money, you make your choice.<br>
<br>
I will be delighted if you can produce the better cill, do let me know well prior though as I have just ordered another 10 pair to be made as the current design. As I currently fund these myself until they sell, leaving Club resourses free for other R&D projects I'd rather not be left with 9.5 pair as it will take me a very long time to use them!<br>
<br>
When I was showing the prototype wing repair at a show a couple of years ago and talking likely costs in general someone suggested they could 'knock them up at half the cost'. My response was please, do so. I've just ordered another 10 pair of those as well as we never heard from that person on this subject again...<br>
<br>


<p></p><i></i>

2 conflicting views from 2 well experienced dolomiters and classic cars buffs. You both have perfecltly legitimate viewpoints...so its worth respectfully disagreeing.<br>
This isnt a religion after all....<br>
<br>
(Sorry, couldnt resist it)<br>
<br>
Jonners

<p></p><i></i>