The Triumph Dolomite Club - EzBoard Archive

how do i get rid of this if this is what the clonking turns out to be. I do need to check the prop shaft before i tear any thing apart.<br>
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cheers<br>
<br>
Mark

<p>1979 Dolomite Sprint<br>
1972 TR6 (In its component form)<br>
1993 Mazda Protege ($250 Winter Hack)<br>
2000 Mazda MPV (For Sale)</p><i></i>

Backlash in the diff is measured with a dial gauge - we're talking thou here. Unlikely to be the cause of clonking I wouldn't have thought. Check prop ujs first and then all the usual culprits lkie trailing arm bushes etc

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... club>Chris Field</A> at: 9/6/05 10:09 am<br></i>

thanks Chris, never thought of the trailing arm bushes, i'll try and get the car up on my friends lift and give it a good going over.<br>
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Cheers<br>
<br>
Mark

<p>1979 Dolomite Sprint<br>
1972 TR6 (In its component form)<br>
1993 Mazda Protege ($250 Winter Hack)<br>
2000 Mazda MPV (For Sale)</p><i></i>

Check out the tie bars and bushes as well. I had one go on me and it was a pretty scary experience.

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...do you notice it most? Could it possibly be the exhaust catching and clobbering the underside of the car?<br>
Tim

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diffs are fairly strong on the whole and rarely go in road use...The excess backlash is caused by bearing wear and usually is accompanied by a whine on drive or on the overrun, depending on which one it is. The whine will vary a lot on drive load....maybe even going altogether when coasting or on a light throttle. Oil leaks dont help and maybe can be a first cause of the whiney bearing.<br>
So if its clonks its almost always other things...prop u/j's clonk but will usually cause a nasty vibration like a wheel out of balance rather than a clonk.<br>
Clonks are usually suspension bushes...metal to metal contact as the ruber finally gives up the ghost. Trailing arm or tie bar.<br>
Jonners

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