The Triumph Dolomite Club - EzBoard Archive

On a scale of 1 to 10......... how hard is it to remove the sprint engine with the gearbox.<br>
I have never done it before but want to do it myself.<br>
<br>
I have a Engine crane so that solves that problem.<br>
<br>
Also... while the engine is out... what hard to get things in the engine bay are worth changing

<p></p><i></i>

Am assistant is a good idea. Take of the exhaust at the bottom of the downpipe. Lots of padding on front panel like old cardboard or bubble wrap You need a fairly sharp angle as the box remote catches on the tunnel.<br>
When its out clean it all and do the rack mounts.<br>
Its easier with the tunnel out but not essential.<br>
Jonners.

<p></p><i></i>

Hauling a Sprint engine and box out is easier thanhauling a OHV lump out on its own. Undo the follwing. Prop, Gearbox Mount, Engine Mount, Speedo cable, remove G'lever but leave tunnel in situ. Remove bonnet, rad, fan, choke and accel cables. Disconnect Exhaust from dwonpipe top front box, remove air cleaner box, alternator wires, fuel & temp wires. Think thats about it, but the rest will be obvious. Have you engine crane front chain about 3 links shorter than the rear to give the unit some tilt, haul the lot out, engine, box, manifold & downpipe, carbs. As you pull the power unit forward & up, jack up the back of the carto give a bit more clearance. As the unit starts to emerge, unbolt the slave cyl from g'box, no need to loose fluid. IIRC, a couple of people can have the lot out in about 40 Mins - This could be the next restoration show challenge <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

Chassis rail/bulkhead repairs......have a good poke about wi' a sharp stick, particularly on the inner edges!!<br>
<br>
I reckon removal is a 5.<br>
<br>
Putting it back in can be easier if you have the car on axle stands/wheel ramps; that way you can put it in more vertically to start with to get the angle, but for this you need a) headroom and b) a long reach crane

<p></p><i></i>

Following on from alun's bulkhead check, have a look at the condition of driver's side rear subframe mounting - if you've had a master cylinder leak at any stage it may find it's way down to the rear mounting and enlarge the hole for you... <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
My engine is currently out (w/out) gearbox - scale of 1-10 for gearbox removal on it's own, anybody?<br>
<br>
speedracer

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/2">1975 Dolly Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

2

<p></p><i></i>

Just to clarify, your scales (1-10), what is 1, easy or hard.<br>
<br>
Taking 1 as being easy I would say 7 for taking the engine & g/box out & 6 for just the g/box. neither method being that easy if you haven't done it before. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

<br>
I've got an engine lift if you want to borrow it ....

<p></p><i></i>

If the lump is already out its about a 2....<br>
It will make putiing it back much easier....its far easier to mate the input shaft up thet way.<br>
Jonners

<p></p><i></i>