The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I have doors for it James if needed. I knew the n/s front wasnt great but think it should be saveable with your talents. But a new door might be easier. I have ones from a similar vintage car but in saffron.

Great pics and its a whike since its been so clean. Did you miss the damage around the o/s ...

It locates the rack sideways against notches in the sub frame. Ita absolutely crucial and goes under the nearside rack mounting. The U bolt for the clamp goes through the slotted holes.

Jonners

You will need the o-d box cross member and of course its mounting. The front sdliding bit on the prop has always worked ok for me. You also need the internla stud plates to hold the x member in the floor. The mounting is NOT the same a a Sprint but a 1500HL one is the same.

I would fit the head and get the timing sorted on the chain before fitting the ffront cover.
I'd also check the spring tension on the rear crank oil seal unless you are confident of its provenance.

I think its easier to fit the whole engine with pump and manifolds etcall in place than refit it ...

That soubds totally like a result. If you get that sort of pressure then there cant be much wrong internally and the jackshaft side thrust witll be acceptable.

Good job.

Jonners

Sounds far easier to just fix the layshaft bearings in your own box, the probable cause of the din.

Jonners

As soon as I'm able there is one I have earmarked for you...

Trouble is I just cant say if and when I'll be well enough. The one I have you could take a chance "as is" but I'd hate it
to be no better.

I'll be VERY careful on the pilot bearig on these in future I can tell you....

Jonners

What i would want to see especially if I didnt trust the absolute gauge reading is the oil pressure building to about 3k rpm and then going no higher as the relief valve opens.

The numbers I would want to see on a sound motor would be no lower than 20 at hot idle and maxing out at 60 psi.

I would ...

if you do have 120 bhp already you are at the limits of the standard box and diff.

Quick enough as is...

Jonners

I admire the fact you admit on a public forum full of wags that you tried to start it with no starter....

Before I read that I was guessing issues with the box loom connector, which often gets me on a first start.

Lol.

Boy was that an oily water pump. I have NEVER seen one with such a bad oil ...

So are all historic vehickes nbow MOT exempt or do we have to wait a bit? That will save me a fortune....at 45 quid a pop.

Jonners

Have an emerald Sprint bootlid from a car I sadly had to break years ago as was just too far gone. Think it was on an M plate.
So there were a few. Supposedly mallard as well but I dont think Ive ever seen one in the flesh.
Mallard was pretty dreadul as a a paint though so unless garaged I doubt ...

Russet has its pluses in that its easy to touch up and seems quite robust in original form as far as Triumph paints go generally.

However if its all about money you will regain 500 to 1000 on sale price ifthe colour change is done properly.

It could be worse....but not much.

Only saffron or ...

Yes its not hard to do if you can get all the bits. The crucial one is the cross member and mounting, then the more obvious
stuff like stick, loom etc etc.

Spit 1500 box is the same. My personal feeling is a Spit 1500 would make much better use of it too...:-)

You can also pay more than the car is ...

....after multiple bitches about the stud length its getting sorted...

Better late than never.

Jonners