The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Mixture of Hard lines and hoses.

Main front to rear will be hard line.

Possibly the last update of this year.

Still working my way thru the wiring think I’m almost there now.
Will wire the engine and gearbox up and do a test fire up to confirm its cranks and has sparks.
Before refitting back in the Sprint.

Oil seals (Double lipped with internal spring one for ...

Just a quick update.

Slowly getting the wiring done.

Taken all the relays fuses and wiring that are not going to be used all removed.
Then just use want it needs to run engine cooling fans.

Hopefully fire it up on the (That’s a long way off) RX8 fuse/Relay box then swap it out for some else ...

Grayston Enginerring can supply studs nuts etc in Metric or Imperial.
Based in Chessington Surrey.
They only usually supply to the trade but have supplied to me if the order is big enough.

http://www.grayston.biz/wheelnutmenu.htm

Just had a quick chat today.
They say max 50psi hot at any revs.
Anything more than that they start leaking oil.

Well it appears to have found what was the low oil pressure problem.

I suppose if you work it out like a thermostat in a cooling system you’re trying to push the coolant the wrong way.
Some coolant will flow but not much.
Swap the hoses round and bingo full flow.

These things are sent to try ...

I still think you may have also a low oil pressure problem.
And low oil capacity.
Difficult to find any pressure info on line.

There’s a jaguar specialist that I occasionally drop off to.
If I remember I’ll ask next time I go in there.

What’s behind the plate that’s says do not remove.
Is it just a for the extra oil capacity.
Do you still have the original sump.
Is there something diverting some of the oil like a bypass?
Yes I’m fully aware of the difference in sump types.
It was mostly about the oil starvation and baffles.

Some interesting reading here on Jaguars AJV6 engine.

https://auto-tat.co.uk/AJ-V6%20Sump.html

Is your sump suitable baffled.

To be honest, oil brand has been cheap shite as I’ve had a persistent oil leak at the sump gasket and didn’t want to spend a fortune on good oil for it to leak out. Grade wise, I’m using a slightly thicker oil than most would for this engine but nothing out of spec. I found a detailed engine manual ...

First question is what oil brand and grade are you using and filter.

I know from previous experience these engine’s are fussy about using the correct oil.

Going by your readings they should be higher.
Working on a ratio of 10psi per 1000rpm.
(what we used on are race engines)
Restrictions ...

The other option is to use the Mk1/2 Escort Race/Rally Tank.
Sits between the turrets
Shaped for a spare wheel.

CompBrake and CT Fabrications can make tanks from pattern sizes.
As can Pro Alloy.

https://www.westwalesrallyspares.co.uk/ ... fuel-tanks

If I was to do the Fuel again.
I possibly would use the Range Rover P38 unit.
The pump can be replaced or updated easily.
Mounting plate can also be scorched making it a bolt in out unit.
Plus drop the hieght and overall size a bit and foam filled.

I done away with my original tank
Had an alloy tank made to fit in between the rear turrets.
Larger capacity (Rotary’s are Thirsty)
Internal swirl pot. AN Fittings.
External Fuel Pump and filter.
Will run a return line back to tank.

Still to finish off.

I believe he’s running a Dolomite tank from memory with external pump.

Dare say he be along soon to confirm or correct me.