The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted:Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:52 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined:Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts:6192
Location:Highley, Shropshire
Fitchetts do pattern mounts for the ARB to subframe mount in galv. About £18 each IIRC. Don't use poly on the ARB, you'll just bust the mounts.

For a Toledo, use poly on :- Rack mounts, inner track control arm bushes (if not converted to dolomite arms with rose joints) rear of rear upper tie bars and front of front tie bars, lower column mount bush in bulkhead. That's all you need, but if the subframe mount bushes are really bad, you can do those too without much penalty in comfort.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted:Mon Jul 05, 2021 10:33 am 
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Joined:Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:31 pm
Posts:64
Location:Oxfordshire
Quote:
Fitchetts do pattern mounts for the ARB to subframe mount in galv. About £18 each IIRC. Don't use poly on the ARB, you'll just bust the mounts.

For a Toledo, use poly on :- Rack mounts, inner track control arm bushes (if not converted to dolomite arms with rose joints) rear of rear upper tie bars and front of front tie bars, lower column mount bush in bulkhead. That's all you need, but if the subframe mount bushes are really bad, you can do those too without much penalty in comfort.

Steve
Cheers Steve thats helpful. will do those as I go! was thinking it might be a bit rattly with ALL of the bushes poly'd...

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted:Wed Jul 21, 2021 8:28 am 
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Joined:Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:31 pm
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Location:Oxfordshire
Quick update -

A nice bloke called James who owns a few old british cars, one being a mint example of a metro, gave me a halogen headlight to replace the one sealed beam on the passenger side so now I should have matching lights.

I have sourced everything to fit the anti-roll bar and it's currently getting sandblasted and powder coated, thought I might as well make it look nice if I'm putting it on as it hopefully will be a fit-and-forget after that. At some point I may do the same for the subframe and rear arms etc but would prefer to keep the car driving at least for now. Me and the Mrs are saving up for a house so need to keep the car relatively mobile for now in case we manage to find one with a garage/carport.

Have also purchased a steering bush rebuild kit with the rubber washers etc so will give that a go soon, maybe at the same time as putting the rack mounts in? I'm not sure how involved a job doing the rack mounts are if i'm honest, don't think i need to unbolt the subframe do i?

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted:Wed Jul 21, 2021 8:35 am 
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Joined:Wed Nov 15, 2017 3:35 pm
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Location:Halifax, West Yorkshire
Making good progress!

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PostPosted:Wed Jul 21, 2021 2:46 pm 
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TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser

Joined:Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:32 pm
Posts:381
Hi Jack. Sounds like it is coming along nicely! A good idea doing bits at a time and keeping it mobile, one thing can lead to another sometimes and before you know it the car is not mobile. Keep it ticking along until the 'big day'!

As for the mounts - if it is the same as my 1500, then access is ok for the o/s mount, but the n/s is a bit more difficult to access due to the sump being in the way. You may be able to raise the engine up a bit to get the bracket out or as you say drop the subframe a little with the engine supported - I've got a support beam if ever you need to use it.
I found that even with the o/s mount replaced with a poly, that tightened the rack up to stop it sliding around. I then replaced the n/s when I had the engine out to sort my gearbox.

Best wishes

MC

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Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:18 pm 
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Joined:Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:31 pm
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Location:Oxfordshire
Cheers guys. Thanks matt for the advice on steering rack mounts - had a quick look under the car today and looks like I should at least be able to do one with ease.

Bit of an update as i've got lots done today!


Firstly, a complete success I'd say, the car now has an anti-roll bar fitted! I bought a fairly rusty looking one off ebay, sourced the sleeves, bought new hardware and then got the brackets and bar itself sand blasted and powder coated.

Image

I did reuse the rubber bushes that came with the ARB so will need to change those at some point as they're a bit perished, but that should be easy enough when the time comes for it. will probably buy some new end links as they are a bit old too, but if i'm honest i'm not in any rush. Here is a closer up pic:

Image

Next up, changed the headlight over from the sealed beam unit to halogen. Both sides are a bit dim, so I might get some better bulbs to stick in now I have the option of actually replacing them. I didn't really pull the headlight unit off but suspect there is going to be some rust underneath, may be a job to get on with before it's too late:


Image

Finally, I did have a go at fitting the pre-engaged M35J in place of the previous inertia starter, and on first attempt I left out these spacers:

Image

This didn't work that well, and although it started the car I could immediately hear metal-on-metal action so took the starter off and threw the spacers in.

The car now starts every time, and no more metal on metal noise. There are a couple of issues still however:

- The starter relay is still present, I plan to bypass this and take it off
- When cranking, there is a loud noise, almost sounds like its squeaking. This could either be partly the issue above with dodgy contacts to the relay, or it could just be differences in the flywheel ring gear. I'm not sure if it's dangerous, but if it goes wrong I always have the option of returning to the inertia starter. I have a new ring gear to go on so although it sounds reckless I don't care too much if either component (starter motor or ring gear) gets damaged.

Next up on the list I may start tackling some of the rear bushes, though not with any urgency. I still need to do the steering coupling rebuild and the rack mounts. Other things I might keep an eye out for are a laminated front windscreen and possibly an electric fan to replace the viscous coupled one, though the car doesn't overheat as it stands, just want to tidy up the bay (and free a few ponies from the drag of the fan!)

Image

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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