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NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=10202		 Page 118 of 123
Author:  Toledo Man [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
I've no intention of keeping it permanently on charge. I'll see if I've actually saved this battery. I'll be taking a voltage reading tomorrow to see what it is like.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
I didn't get round to it until today and was reading 12.8 volts. I fitted it and cranked it over and the voltage reading stayed above 10 volts so there may be hope for this battery. I've put the charger back on and I'll just leave it overnight and take it off in the morning.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Just taken a voltage reading an it was 12.65 volts so it looks like I've saved this battery.

Sam, let me know when you can give me a hand with reviving NYE. I'd like to see RUK in the metal. A single 1850 auto is rare but two in the same place is even rarer.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Fri Feb 02, 2018 6:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
My next thoughts now turn towards the ignition system. The rotor arm, cap, HT leads and spark plugs shouldn't need replacement but the plugs will benefit from a good clean. I'm going to stick with the Delco dizzy which I'd reinstated previously and I'll order a new set of points and condenser. I'm aware of poor quality ignition parts so I'll choose carefully. I'd like to fit electronic ignition but I want to get it running on points & condenser first. I've also bought a Gunsons timing light on eBay which should be better than the one I already have which seems to be a bit hit-and-miss.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Wed Feb 07, 2018 12:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
The battery is holding charge but I gave it an overnight charge last night just to keep it topped up. I'm NOT going to neglect it again. I'm considering getting a replacement Delco dizzy as the current one is a bit of an unknown due to years of non-use so there will probably be a "wanted" thread. I'm still wanting to fit electronic ignition but I'm getting a bit too ahead of myself at the moment.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Thu Feb 08, 2018 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
As some of you may know, I have a 12v coil which has been on the car since before I bought it. The wiring loom is HL-spec (don't ask) so it should have the ballast incorporated in it somewhere. Because I'm wanting to run points and condenser I'll need a 6v coil but before I get one ordered, I need to check the wiring to see if it is indeed ballasted. If I'm running a 12v setup (I'm 90% certain that I am) then it would explain why I had no end of trouble when I was running on points and condenser.
Author:  soe8m [ Fri Feb 09, 2018 12:04 am ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
You can order a 6v coil for your old volkswagen beetle because thats a 6v car but for your dolomite you need a 12v ballasted coil. Having a 12v coil in your "ballasted system" will cause no trouble, only a weaker spark at the plug. The strain on the condenser and points is even less than normal with a 12v coil in a balasted setup because of the lower current throught it.

But you can buy and try ofcourse a 6v coil first and then buy a 12v ballasted one afterwards.

Jeroen
Author:  Toledo Man [ Fri Feb 09, 2018 6:27 am ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Yeah, you're right because it puts out 12 volts when it is cranking over on the starter motor. I'll need to check the whole ignition system before I start ordering any parts.
Author:  dollyman [ Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Quote:
As some of you may know, I have a 12v coil which has been on the car since before I bought it. The wiring loom is HL-spec (don't ask) so it should have the ballast incorporated in it somewhere. Because I'm wanting to run points and condenser I'll need a 6v coil but before I get one ordered, I need to check the wiring to see if it is indeed ballasted. If I'm running a 12v setup (I'm 90% certain that I am) then it would explain why I had no end of trouble when I was running on points and condenser.
On my 1972 1850 HL auto (unmolested) has the ballast resistor right next to the coil in the white block form :D

Cheers,
Tony.
Author:  James467 [ Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Quote:
Quote:
As some of you may know, I have a 12v coil which has been on the car since before I bought it. The wiring loom is HL-spec (don't ask) so it should have the ballast incorporated in it somewhere. Because I'm wanting to run points and condenser I'll need a 6v coil but before I get one ordered, I need to check the wiring to see if it is indeed ballasted. If I'm running a 12v setup (I'm 90% certain that I am) then it would explain why I had no end of trouble when I was running on points and condenser.
On my 1972 1850 HL auto (unmolested) has the ballast resistor right next to the coil in the white block form :D

Cheers,
Tony.
Hate to be pedantic but a '72 is just a Dolomite and not an 1850 HL. The 1850 badge came in post rationalisation. :wink:

Dave, refurbishing the delco dizzy is pretty simple. Have a look at the RUK/binny thread
Author:  Toledo Man [ Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Nothing new to report aside from keeping the battery topped up. It was reading 12.4 volts a few days ago so I put it on charge for a few hours. Dark night and cold weather aren't exactly conducive to spannering.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Fri Aug 03, 2018 1:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Much to my shame, I've done absolutely NOTHING. It hasn't really moved since it was resprayed 2 years ago so I need to get my finger out. I've decided to make a new job list to get myself motivated. This is what I can think of off the top of my head so in no particular order:

Replace the starter inhibitor switch.
Charge the battery (I'll buy a new one if I need to).
Get the engine running again.
Change the engine oil and oil filter.
Change the transmission fluid.
Replace the seat diaphragm in the driver's seat.
Replace the O rings in the oil pump (I bought a set from Rimmer Bros so they just need fitting. I think that's the source of my oil leak).
Fit the oil pressure gauge.
Fit a switch for the heated rear window.
Clean and repaint the cam cover (I need to take it off to make sure I've got the camshaft in the right place when I set the static timing so I might as well clean and paint it while it is off).
Repaint the wheels.
Replace the tyres.
Wash the car.
Get it through an MoT (not legally required but being roadworthy is more important).
Clean and lubricate the rear brakes (the handbrake hasn't been left on but it won't do any harm to clean it all up and make sure it is all working).

That's quite a list! I'll be documenting it on my YouTube channel and my Blog as well as on this resto thread and I'll try to remember to take some photos too.
Author:  yorkshire_spam [ Fri Aug 03, 2018 1:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
If I were you I'd re-order that list into "stuff before the MOT" and "Stuff after the MOT", I think you need to getting started, running and MOTd and then worry about "other stuff" that way you can start enjoying the car!

I'll see if I can get time to pop over and help you get it started sometime soon!
Author:  Toledo Man [ Fri Aug 03, 2018 7:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Yeah, some of it will be pre-MoT. I just listed stuff as it came into my head when I was typing the post on my lunch break at work. I didn't prioritise it. I just wanted to get as much down as I could. I'm going to copy and paste it into a Word document and print it out which better than a handwritten list. I can prioritise it then.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto
Oh feck! I tried to jack it up to check the rear brakes and I found this.
Image

Another job to add to the list.
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