The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:00 pm 
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I thought dot 5.1 was fully synthetic as 3 and 4 are mineral. But still mixable.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:06 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 6:21 pm 
What is the purpose of the bit of card that is around the resistor on the blower motor?

The card on my blower has disintegrated and the two spare blowers I have are not much better. Can I replace it with another similar piece, or fabricate one from aluminium or plastic?

I'm guessing its purely to protect it from the direct heat of the engine/exhaust?

Thanks

David


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 9:07 pm 
Haven't posted any updates for a while but still reading the forum most days.
As for the blower motor I formed a shield using hardboard and sprayed it in several coats of laquer to waterproof it and harden it. I need to re-solder the wires but so far can't find my solder iron so I'll do them once I buy/borrow another one.

All the wiring in the engine bay has been cleaned, identified and taped up with cloth wiring loom tape making it very much tidier.

Whilst checking over the clutch thrust bearing ( remember the engine is out ) I identified that the clutch master cylinder had seized, so removed it, stripped it (eventually) and rebuilt it with new seals after cleaning the internal bore. May refit it tomorrow if it doesn't snow. Also replaced the slave cylinder with a nos one, leaving the original to be stripped and rebuilt at a later date.

I will clean and prep the engine bay for repaint. The spray painter who quoted me £3k to paint the car commented that I did a nice job of the engine bay so I will endeavour to improve on my first attempt and hopefully will still be on track to get the engine back in before the end of this year. Iv got 18 days annual leave coming up from 8th December so in between Xmas shopping and rummaging in the loft for decorations I hope to achieve this.

David


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:26 pm 
I was talking recently to a friend who remembers my Sprint last being on the road (1990) and he reminded me of an issue that I had overlooked.

Perhaps someone on here could help me clear it up?

The engine ran perfectly fine but when you blipped the throttle, it would rev up freely but the revs would die down slowly rather than drop back quickly to tickover speed. At the time I guess it never really bothered me but nowadays I am more inclined to understand why it did this. The reason I ask is because I am prepping to put the engine back in the car and if the cause of this is something easier dealt with with the engine out then I should remedy it now.
Any ideas what would cause this?

Thanks

David


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 11:25 pm 
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Depending on the age of the car, it may have "poppet valves" in the throttle butterflies of the carbs, which are designed to delay somewhat the drop to idle and help prevent stalling on snap throttle closure. These have built in return springs which weaken with age, resulting in a more leisurely return to idle than is really desireable. The cheap solution is to solder them shut, more expensive, but probably better, buy some new throttle butterflies without the valves.

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 7:26 pm 
Thankyou Steve. At least I now know I can get on with refitting the engine and still work on the carbs. I have a set of carbs on the inlet manifold from a '74 Sprint which I wonder if I could fit to see if there is any difference?
I originally thought the carbs were over-fuelling, or floats sticking or even that my flywheel was out of balance?
New throttle butterflies are now on my Xmas List!

Cheers

David


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 11:56 am 
How do you identify if an axle us a limited slip differential?
I've got markings on mine but not sure what they mean.

Thanks

David


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 Post subject: Yes.......
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 1:19 pm 
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On the underside the diff will have a number beginning VA,
if it has an S at the end then you have a LSD.





Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Yes.......
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Quote:
On the underside the diff will have a number beginning VA,
if it has an S at the end then you have a LSD.





Ian.
Well, you have an original LSD casing! It wouldn't be the first to have had its internals pilfered by an unscrupulous garage! Traces of red paint are further corroboration.

To double check, jack up one rear wheel and release the handbrake; if you can turn the wheel by hand, it's not an LSD


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:59 pm 
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Or it's an lsd that needs rebuilding!!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2023 12:18 am 
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I know this is a VERY old post - But having just bought and collected Davy's former car - Does anyone know if he still frequents the forum?

Mike


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2023 10:02 am 
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Quote:
I know this is a VERY old post - But having just bought and collected Davy's former car - Does anyone know if he still frequents the forum?

Mike
It looks as if the account 'davy67' has been disabled and that would be due to him not having logged on to the forum for over 12 months, but he may still be reading what someone who isn't logged in can see (which would include this post)


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