The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:56 pm 
I will be uploading photos next week when I do a bit of welding on my mates capri!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:39 pm 
Some photos of my restoration...

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:48 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 10:05 pm 
Fitted the drivers side suspension assembly this afternoon without any problems then turned my attention to the front ARB. I located the n/s in the link end and loosely bolted it into place on the lower arm then worked my way around,fitting brackets with poly bushes. The o/s link end took some persuasion and brute strength on my part but it went in and I thought "yeah,job done!" . It was only when I was tightening up the bolts that I noticed I did not locate the n/s link end through the bush!!! AARGH!!! Luckily there was no one there to see me cry like a baby..
Sort it out tomorrow then move onto refitting the axle. Hope you like the photos guys.

David


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:46 am 
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I'd do the ARB last when its on the wheels. Its much easier to fot when its all sitting square and under load.

Think I posted on the main forum recently.

Proper good looking job too. Pics are great.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 4:44 pm 
Thanks John. I finally managed to get it all sorted o. Saturday but it did fight me all the way! Once it's back on its wheels I'll check everythings sitting as it should. Might be going away for few days this week but hopefully still get time to refit rear suspension. That should be less of a hassle.

David


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:57 pm 
Just a quick update; it seems that while I used the brute force technique to fit the arb I ended up doing in the tendons of my left arm. So my planned refit of the axle has been put on hold for the moment. In the meantime there are several things which don't require any physical effort which I can get on with. Looks like I'll be in this workspace for another few months after all so best make the most of it!

David


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 Post subject: Suspension shims
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 3:26 am 
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Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
David is doing a wonderful job here and elsewhere. Elsewhere looking after folk like me.

Let me just make one comment about the shims in the front suspension. My car now has three sets of shims on the nearside and two sets on the offside.

I think that if you are in anyway concerned I would simply fit two shims either side for once you have got the car mobile you will probably be like me and want to have the steering set up on one of those modern computer controlled wheel alignment things that are in use now. It will certainly set up the correct toe in / toe out very quickly but I found the chappie who did my alignment very quickly picked up that I needed one extra shim on one side. I had spare shims with me and it was a relatively quick and easy operation to fit while the car was still up on his alignment hoist.

That third shim showing in your photograph looks, how shall I say it, very agricultural and far too thick. In looking at your car I rather suspect that when you stitch the whole front end of the car back together that its geometry will be very close to what it was like when it left the factory and that third shim may not be necessary.

I have been trying to see around the corner of that first photo you have above, to see whether your front suspension has the little extra support bracket which you can see in the photo I have placed here.
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20120107-2697Pw Sprint front suspension.jpg
20120107-2697Pw Sprint front suspension.jpg [ 195.29 KiB | Viewed 111211 times ]
I just cannot quite see it clearly in your photo but you will note on this photo, see that red arrow (carefully colour matched to your restoration!) that additional bracket? The corresponding number of small shims sit behind that bracket, as behind the main suspension support. I understand that the early cars did not have that extra bracket, so perhaps yours does not.

Your car and my car will almost be like sisters, for both sat for very long periods of time before their respective restorations were completed. Keep at it. I shall be keeping a very close eye on this restoration from now on willing you on and doing what ever I can to assist.

Robert


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 2:56 pm 
It looks like you're being very thorough there so well done...!

I've never seen a Dolomite without its 'nose' so the picture above looks very strange indeed...!!!

Good luck with the rest of the resto'...


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 Post subject: Re: Suspension shims
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:40 pm 
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Quote:
I have been trying to see around the corner of that first photo you have above, to see whether your front suspension has the little extra support bracket
Robert
It does look behind the brake pipe bracket in this picture -
Quote:
Some photos of my restoration...
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Usually two skims are the only requirement for the front suspension - these are two thinner skims forget your very thick skim.
Quote:
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Also there should be two little skims that go behind the bracket that Robert is talking about.

Regards
Paul

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 1:19 pm 
I have two of those brackets that have been highlighted, one on either side. I think the reason you cant identify them easily from my photos is because I've painted them black s opposed to Roberts silver one. I do remember taping together spacers from these brackets so I'll rumage through some boxes til I find them. Thanks for reminding me about them otherwise I may have overlooked refitting them. I also turned round the bottom bolt/nut so it doesnt interfere with the steering gator any longer.

Robert I'll get that 'box steam cleaned on Monday, wrapped and boxed before I bring it down to Eccleston.
Found the gear knob in a box. Its in good condition so I'll pop that in too. The rear crossmember mounting is attached too.

David


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 4:56 pm 
Going back to what Grifterkid said about never having seen a dolomite without its nose; I'm at the stage where I am trial fitting the complete front panels that I have, almost ready to go on.
This is obviously a very crucial part of the restoration because if I dont get this lined up in the exact place all the rest of my panels and corresponding gaps will be out and it will look a mess. I've been humming and hawwing over it for several weeks now.
Is there any words of wisdom someone can give me to tell me if there are any easy ways to do this or datum points I can use to get it in the right place?
Also the car is still supported on axle stands. The chassis is good and the complete floor is solid but should I be worrying about flexing or twisting along the length of the car? Will this have an impact on fitting the panels?

Cheers

David


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:58 am 
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David

I have no real suggestions to make on how to make sure that everything is aligned. I might see if I can find the datum information which sits in the factory workshop manual and scan that and post it here for that might help.

Is it just a question of doing a trial fit and tacking sufficient panels on to close the gap at the front and then sitting the bonnet on and if necessary adjusting to get it to fit evenly? Then attach the wings. The subframe mounting points are what I would have thought to be the critical points for that affixes where the suspension attaches to. And since they have not been disturbed then I would assume that all you are doing is closing off the front.

You are not disturbing anything that might change the wheelbase. The floor pan is intact. The roof has not moved. Is the front screen in place? If not can you just sit it - not fit it, and check that there is an even "gap" all round. Doors in place and closed? I would have though that would be sufficient to ensure that the cabin has not moved or warped and if so then the front will be okay.

Best of luck.

Robert


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 3:18 pm 
Yes Robert, basically all I am doing is closing off the front as you said. The front screen is still currently in place (will only need to remove it for respay and new rubber surround) and all the doors are on. The passenger side doors line up nicely. I fitted them several years ago to refit new outer cill but last time I tried to line up the drivers side doors I could not achieve a good gap. Thats why I wondered if it still being on axle stands would affect its symetry? Unfortunately neither drivers side doors are original. I somehow managed to lose the complete front door altogether and although I still have my original rear door it is not in the best condition but I have been giving serious thought to trying to repair it and use it. At the very least I was going to refit it and see if it sits any better than the replacement door?
With the bonnet in place I can line it up evenly with the windscreen scuttle and see that its sitting squarely then likewise line up the leading edge of the bonnet with the front panel but I'm not at all happy with the size of the gap here.
I will take some photos as it stands and get them posted.

David


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:27 pm 
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The gap between the front edge of the bonnet and the front outer panel is (and needs to be) quite substantial.
I've just been out and measured 2 of my cars and the gap is mostly 7mm across the front edge and about 2mm across the rear edge.

Steve

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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
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