The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 2:17 am 
As far as i know it is an early 1850 one. Only the rev counter isnt because i couldnt find one, its a freebie one, and isnt in the photo but the speedo should work fine. Wouldnt make a difference if it was an earlier speedo anyway, as far as i know the gearing is done at the gearbox.

Sprint dizzy is one for the future, as well as solid carb mounts, bigger carbs off of a tr7, lower it a bit at the rear and a full respray.

Its staying sandglow, because i hate the sort of resprays where people blow a colour over the top and leave the engine bay, floors, boot etc all the original colour. Cant be bothered/afford to repaint the whole car inside and out so its staying beige. Not all that fussed anyway its not that bad.

Alan, thanks for your kind words as always. You've been a constant confidence raiser throughout!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 5:01 am 
excellent progress good luck and welcome


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:42 am 
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I knew the speedo was the early 1850 one. I got mine cheap via eaby and the rest of the instruments came from a local member. I already had an early warning light cluster so it was a matter of rearranging the wires in the plug (it can be done with the 1850HL dash loom). You will need the manifold as well as the carbs off the TR7. Mine was like that when I bought it. I did a straight swap with Alun (xvivalve) for an 1850 manifold and HS4 carbs. I know where you're coming from about the paint but my circumstances dictate that I'm not going to do much more than blow over the outside with fresh paint. I don't have anywhere to store all the stuff if I stripped the car down to the shell, I need to keep the car in a drivable state to turn it round because there's isn't room where the car is and I need to keep the interior secure so the doors have to stay in situ. I'm planning on painting the doors everywhere and the door shuts. I'm also goint to paint the engine bay satin black (inspired by mach1rob). I wish you could come "up north" and give me a hand with mine. You've done an excellent job and your metalwork skills say it all. I wish I could weld that good (mine was described as like pigeon poo!).

Keep up the good work.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the weekend car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the new project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 11:37 am 
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The early dolly rev counter is wired up a bit differently from the later ones and actually takes the coil feed through it IIRC so be careful
when wiring one up. Also if its duff it can short out the points, so no start and head scratching. The later one is just a pulse counter and only needs one wire.

Echo the sentiments on the great standard of work here. Very brave to save a car in such a state in the first place. I think you have the skills to do this professionally if you so desire.

I'd also keep the dolly lights....but hey its your car...

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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 Post subject: Just for clarity......
PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 5:43 pm 
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The early 1850 rev counters are indeed wired differently to the others,
the feed is from the positive side of the coil.
Also, consider the ballast resistor wiring if using a later loom with this built in....


On an early 1850, if the rev counter fails, the car will start but die immediately.
Same sympton as a failed ballast resistor.
You can bypass the rev counter if necessary......



Ian.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:42 pm 
Quote:
excellent progress good luck and welcome
Welcome? ive only been here a month less than you have....
Quote:
I knew the speedo was the early 1850 one. I got mine cheap via eaby and the rest of the instruments came from a local member. I already had an early warning light cluster so it was a matter of rearranging the wires in the plug (it can be done with the 1850HL dash loom). You will need the manifold as well as the carbs off the TR7. Mine was like that when I bought it. I did a straight swap with Alun (xvivalve) for an 1850 manifold and HS4 carbs. I know where you're coming from about the paint but my circumstances dictate that I'm not going to do much more than blow over the outside with fresh paint. I don't have anywhere to store all the stuff if I stripped the car down to the shell, I need to keep the car in a drivable state to turn it round because there's isn't room where the car is and I need to keep the interior secure so the doors have to stay in situ. I'm planning on painting the doors everywhere and the door shuts. I'm also goint to paint the engine bay satin black (inspired by mach1rob). I wish you could come "up north" and give me a hand with mine. You've done an excellent job and your metalwork skills say it all. I wish I could weld that good (mine was described as like pigeon poo!).

Keep up the good work.
Ah yes, sorry. Mine was an ebay bargain too. Not so fussed about early 52mm gauges yet, just speedo and rev counter. as for TR7 carbs, i understand that, wont be for a while yet, probably when it comes back off the road next year for a paintjob. I had no plan to strip it back this far but its just how it happened!

You're very kind re: the metalwork. I did a evening class in welding but then didnt weld for about a year and a half so i forgot most of it. It wasnt great to start with, but it was all solid. Now its getting much more like it but i still think theres room for improvement. Best advice i can give is even if you're using a hobby welder (which i am) buy the best wire you can afford and invest in a full sized gas bottle. My welding improved craploads when i put better wire in the welder and i had no idea it made such a difference till i did it. When i buy a proper manly welder, and properly nice wire, i should be able to weld nearish to pro level as far as cars are concerned - as long as im neat.
Quote:
The early dolly rev counter is wired up a bit differently from the later ones and actually takes the coil feed through it IIRC so be careful
when wiring one up. Also if its duff it can short out the points, so no start and head scratching. The later one is just a pulse counter and only needs one wire.

Echo the sentiments on the great standard of work here. Very brave to save a car in such a state in the first place. I think you have the skills to do this professionally if you so desire.

I'd also keep the dolly lights....but hey its your car...

Jonners
I did have the idea of fitting an early face and needle to the later unit, that way i can fit electronic ignition later and it wont affect it.

Thankyou for the kind words re: professionally! My area of expertise is actually music technology (recording studios, live sound, lighting etc) but im proficient enough in this hobby that i might well like to do cars for other people in future. Ive already done a bit of welding on friends cars.
Quote:
The early 1850 rev counters are indeed wired differently to the others,
the feed is from the positive side of the coil.
Also, consider the ballast resistor wiring if using a later loom with this built in....


On an early 1850, if the rev counter fails, the car will start but die immediately.
Same sympton as a failed ballast resistor.
You can bypass the rev counter if necessary......



Ian.
Oh cheers for the info. Im not sure what the rev counter ive just put in is out of. Its a smiths positive earth unit, but i converted it to negative earth for use with this car. Are you saying it probably wont work?

Do let me know what i need to do for an early rev counter (as in details about the ballast resistor and such like), the plan was always to convert to one anyway.

And in other news, though its not much to look at, but after fitting the n/s hub and disk assembly, fitting the other rack gaiter and track rod end, i was able to drop the Dolly back on its wheels!

So for the first time since December 2012, i can move it around again. Well, by pushing anyway. Tracking at the front needs doing, engine needs mild reassembly. Need to fluid change the engine, already done the rear axle (after fitting its third vented filler), but once ive done that, and bled the brakes, it should move under its own power!

Image

I have less than three weeks to MOT it now so im panicking a bit.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:00 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
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Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:19 am
Posts: 3221
Location: Old Basing, Hants.
I was still wiring the sidelights on mine the night before the MOT, it'll be fine!

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1978 Sandglow Dolomite 1850HL The Lolomite - MOT pass! (broken again in 55 miles though...)
It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.
Hit it.
Image


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:52 pm
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Jonners & Ian, I'd forgotten about the early 1850 tacho being wired differently to the later ones. Like the early type warning light cluster, the 1850HL dash loom can be adapted to make it work and it works with my Britpart electronic ignition.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the weekend car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the new project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:43 pm
Posts: 147
Mine wouldn't start with the instruments unplugged, fired first go once they were plugged back in. It's running a Sprint dizzy with electronic conversion and no problems at all, ballast resistor has been unplugged and thrown away so it's getting the full fat 12v.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:26 pm 
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Location: The continent
My 6 volt beetle gets the full fat 6 volt on the coil. Works also.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:37 pm 
I've run mine without instruments in it, ran it on axle stands as basically a bare shell with no problems.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 2:50 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:45 pm
Posts: 11469
Location: Middlesex
Being a 77 yours should have been wired for the later tacho and the ballast wire is in the loom from switch to coil plus.

Tacho feed is the gray and white wire from coil minus.

All tachos should work with points or electronic ignition that just switches the coil.

As Ian says coil feed for early tacho is from the coil plus. Ballast is a separate box by the coil.

Both early and late will have ballasted 6V coils. If you run with electronic ignition I recommend a 12V coil and feed it from fuse box ignition switch fed fuse but
unfused side.

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2013 8:25 pm 
-000


Last edited by Down&Out on Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:56 am 
8)

I see you got some Sprint wheel nuts too.

:D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:40 am 
Quote:
8)

I see you got some Sprint wheel nuts too.

:D
Yes!

Much to your delight, of course.


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