The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 12:08 pm 
Quote:

Have you considered putting it in for the MoT just to see what it fails on?
I think that is very wise advice. I did precisely that with my own car after getting it, it al the least gives you things to repair in order to get it roadworthy, after that it can become a rolling resto. There is nothing like driving the car you are working on to keep the enthusiasm and motivation going I find.


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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 10:12 pm 
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Quote:
I have most bits of a tan interior spare, what exactly do you need for your car?
A drivers side carpet and side panel (see photo)

Also a parcel shelf. The one below may clean up but it's gone in the upper right hand corner and drivers fixing bracket is missing. I'm not sure what that is above it.

The drivers door ashtray is very badly corroded and the rear nearside ashtray is missing.


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 10:16 am 
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Future Club member hopefully!
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Let me check this weekend, I'm pretty sure I have the carpet and the inner wing panels! Possibly the ash trays too, but will need to check they don't belong to the door panels I have.

_________________
1978 Triumph Dolomite Sprint (project thread)
1970 Triumph Spitfire IV (project thread)
1966 VW Beetle 1300 (project thread)
1962 Austin Mini
1962 MGA MKII
1965 Mobylette SP50
1985 Sinclair C5


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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 2:12 pm 
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I've followed my own advice with mine and had it tested this morning. Unsurprisingly, it failed but I now know what the car needs to be roadworthy again.

It is definitely worth doing just to know what is needed.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the weekend car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the new project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:26 am 
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Hope your car didn't fail by too much, it will be a while before I'm ready to put mine through.

Speaking of that I've had a depressing weekend. Found some more tin worm and had a look at the distributor (please someone tell me it's designed like that because it's better than the Lucas).

Lastly, I decided to remove the broken rear exhaust bracket and promptly snapped both bolts (rather too easily). Are the nuts in the boot welded to the body? I certainly cant seem to move them.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:02 pm 
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There are a couple of threaded holes in the bodyshell for the bracket to bolt on to. You'll have to drill the remnants of the bolts out and retap the threads. The dizzy is a right royal pain the in arse so you can either fit electronic ignition or do what I did and fitted a Sprint dizzy with the Britpart electronic ignition kit. The conversion cost me just over £40 all in. You will need the Sprint dizzy (Lucas 44D4), the adaptor plate (the Sprint dizzy is in a different orientation to the 1850's Delco one), an extra pair of dizzy bolts (part number HU706), the Britpart kit and the dizzy cap for a Lucas 45D4 dizzy (as used on the 1300 & 1500 engines) which will enable you to use your existing 1850 HT leads. This has improved reliability no end and has made starting the car much easier. It is highly recommended and was worth every penny it cost me.

You're not the only one with rust problems. My MoT failure was mostly corrosion (as were the advisories) along with a handbrake below efficiency.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the weekend car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the new project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 12:28 pm 
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Location: Nottingham
Quote:
You will need the Sprint dizzy (Lucas 44D4), the adaptor plate (the Sprint dizzy is in a different orientation to the 1850's Delco one), an extra pair of dizzy bolts (part number HU706), the Britpart kit and the dizzy cap for a Lucas 45D4 dizzy
Sounds like one of the first jobs when it's through it's MOT.

Where can I get the adapter plate?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 6:43 am 
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It should come with the dizzy. I got mine from Ian (sprint95m). It is absolutely essential because the orientation of the rotor arm is different to the Delco dizzy. Without it, the spark plugs would all spark at the wrong moment.

I appreciate that you don't feel that the car is ready to go in for the MoT. There were a few things I knew that mine would need so I did them first before I put it in for the test.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the weekend car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the new project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:02 pm 
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Managed to find somewhere to give the car a proper run and it's not good news.

The car revs OK when stationary but runs like a dog under load.

I have done a pressure test and got the following.

1 - 200
2 - 190
3 - 110
4 - 100

Also Cyl. 3 plug is white

So it looks like head off unless anybody can tell me otherwise.

Also the brakes are pulling to the right and I lost pressure after a while. I assume that's a seized piston. I thought that while I'm doing that it may be worth refurbishing the master. I think that the club do these kits I know that Rimmers do but they are missing a spring or something. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hey Ho! (excuse my language).


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:32 pm 
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I think you know what you need to do Alan...and it may involve engine out as well I expect. :(

Obviously burning oil on no. 3 so possibly HG and/or rings. Still, it gives you something interesting to do. :D

No brake M/C kits in club stock atm though.

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2:

2007 Porsche Boxster S


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Schedule: Pronounced "Shedule" not "Skedule"!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:47 pm 
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Those figures are way out. They should be within 10% of each other so there's definitely something wrong. The head will have to come off at the very least.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the weekend car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the new project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:02 am 
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Never had an OHC head of before.

Going by the the Haynes manual it looks fairly straight forward (do you really have to take the bonnet off) but any tips or advice would be very much appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:15 am 
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You don't really need to take the bonnet off but it gives you easier access and a bit more light. It's only four bolts.

Ah! 1850 head!!!! you may have a problem separating the head from the block. These are notorious for having the head bolts seize in the head as five of the head bolts (exhaust side) are open to the elements. I have only done one 1850 head removal and I was lucky, it came off easily. Just a heads-up really, you may be ok. [-o<

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2:

2007 Porsche Boxster S


Image

Grammar:
The difference between knowing your sh#t and knowing you're sh#t.

Schedule: Pronounced "Shedule" not "Skedule"!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Warning - 1850 heads can be extremely difficult to remove. Be aware that you may need to remove the engine from the car.
Good luck.

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White Dolomite 1850 HWM 572P

Bill.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:55 am 
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Quote:

Speaking of that I've had a depressing weekend. Found some more tin worm and had a look at the distributor (please someone tell me it's designed like that because it's better than the Lucas).
Hi Alan, Sorry about the late reply. Yes, I reckon the A.C. Delco 1850 distributor is a masterpiece of high voltage design. Long tracking lengths on the distributor cap and the rotor arm; centrifugal weights and springs all accessible on top so you can see problems straight away;
Points are not too bad. Have a read of this.

https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/1850_D ... ts_setting.

Sorry to hear about the head. Again there are some hints here.
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Dolomi ... ad_removal

Good luck sorting it,
Tony.


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