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Barn Find Hopefully Saved
http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=27298		 Page 2 of 4
Author:  DoloWIGHTY [ Sun May 25, 2014 1:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Quote:

Have you considered putting it in for the MoT just to see what it fails on?
I think that is very wise advice. I did precisely that with my own car after getting it, it al the least gives you things to repair in order to get it roadworthy, after that it can become a rolling resto. There is nothing like driving the car you are working on to keep the enthusiasm and motivation going I find.
Author:  AlanH [ Mon May 26, 2014 11:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Quote:
I have most bits of a tan interior spare, what exactly do you need for your car?
A drivers side carpet and side panel (see photo)

Also a parcel shelf. The one below may clean up but it's gone in the upper right hand corner and drivers fixing bracket is missing. I'm not sure what that is above it.

The drivers door ashtray is very badly corroded and the rear nearside ashtray is missing.

Attachments:
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Author:  Howard81 [ Tue May 27, 2014 11:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Let me check this weekend, I'm pretty sure I have the carpet and the inner wing panels! Possibly the ash trays too, but will need to check they don't belong to the door panels I have.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Sat May 31, 2014 3:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
I've followed my own advice with mine and had it tested this morning. Unsurprisingly, it failed but I now know what the car needs to be roadworthy again.

It is definitely worth doing just to know what is needed.
Author:  AlanH [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Hope your car didn't fail by too much, it will be a while before I'm ready to put mine through.

Speaking of that I've had a depressing weekend. Found some more tin worm and had a look at the distributor (please someone tell me it's designed like that because it's better than the Lucas).

Lastly, I decided to remove the broken rear exhaust bracket and promptly snapped both bolts (rather too easily). Are the nuts in the boot welded to the body? I certainly cant seem to move them.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 1:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
There are a couple of threaded holes in the bodyshell for the bracket to bolt on to. You'll have to drill the remnants of the bolts out and retap the threads. The dizzy is a right royal pain the in arse so you can either fit electronic ignition or do what I did and fitted a Sprint dizzy with the Britpart electronic ignition kit. The conversion cost me just over £40 all in. You will need the Sprint dizzy (Lucas 44D4), the adaptor plate (the Sprint dizzy is in a different orientation to the 1850's Delco one), an extra pair of dizzy bolts (part number HU706), the Britpart kit and the dizzy cap for a Lucas 45D4 dizzy (as used on the 1300 & 1500 engines) which will enable you to use your existing 1850 HT leads. This has improved reliability no end and has made starting the car much easier. It is highly recommended and was worth every penny it cost me.

You're not the only one with rust problems. My MoT failure was mostly corrosion (as were the advisories) along with a handbrake below efficiency.
Author:  AlanH [ Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Quote:
You will need the Sprint dizzy (Lucas 44D4), the adaptor plate (the Sprint dizzy is in a different orientation to the 1850's Delco one), an extra pair of dizzy bolts (part number HU706), the Britpart kit and the dizzy cap for a Lucas 45D4 dizzy
Sounds like one of the first jobs when it's through it's MOT.

Where can I get the adapter plate?
Author:  Toledo Man [ Fri Jun 06, 2014 7:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
It should come with the dizzy. I got mine from Ian (sprint95m). It is absolutely essential because the orientation of the rotor arm is different to the Delco dizzy. Without it, the spark plugs would all spark at the wrong moment.

I appreciate that you don't feel that the car is ready to go in for the MoT. There were a few things I knew that mine would need so I did them first before I put it in for the test.
Author:  AlanH [ Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Managed to find somewhere to give the car a proper run and it's not good news.

The car revs OK when stationary but runs like a dog under load.

I have done a pressure test and got the following.

1 - 200
2 - 190
3 - 110
4 - 100

Also Cyl. 3 plug is white

So it looks like head off unless anybody can tell me otherwise.

Also the brakes are pulling to the right and I lost pressure after a while. I assume that's a seized piston. I thought that while I'm doing that it may be worth refurbishing the master. I think that the club do these kits I know that Rimmers do but they are missing a spring or something. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hey Ho! (excuse my language).
Author:  Mad Mart [ Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
I think you know what you need to do Alan...and it may involve engine out as well I expect. :(

Obviously burning oil on no. 3 so possibly HG and/or rings. Still, it gives you something interesting to do. :D

No brake M/C kits in club stock atm though.
Author:  Toledo Man [ Sat Jun 21, 2014 9:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Those figures are way out. They should be within 10% of each other so there's definitely something wrong. The head will have to come off at the very least.
Author:  AlanH [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Never had an OHC head of before.

Going by the the Haynes manual it looks fairly straight forward (do you really have to take the bonnet off) but any tips or advice would be very much appreciated.
Author:  Mad Mart [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:15 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
You don't really need to take the bonnet off but it gives you easier access and a bit more light. It's only four bolts.

Ah! 1850 head!!!! you may have a problem separating the head from the block. These are notorious for having the head bolts seize in the head as five of the head bolts (exhaust side) are open to the elements. I have only done one 1850 head removal and I was lucky, it came off easily. Just a heads-up really, you may be ok. [-o<
Author:  Edin Dundee [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Warning - 1850 heads can be extremely difficult to remove. Be aware that you may need to remove the engine from the car.
Good luck.
Author:  MIG Wielder [ Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:55 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Barn Find Hopefully Saved
Quote:

Speaking of that I've had a depressing weekend. Found some more tin worm and had a look at the distributor (please someone tell me it's designed like that because it's better than the Lucas).
Hi Alan, Sorry about the late reply. Yes, I reckon the A.C. Delco 1850 distributor is a masterpiece of high voltage design. Long tracking lengths on the distributor cap and the rotor arm; centrifugal weights and springs all accessible on top so you can see problems straight away;
Points are not too bad. Have a read of this.

https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/1850_D ... ts_setting.

Sorry to hear about the head. Again there are some hints here.
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Dolomi ... ad_removal

Good luck sorting it,
Tony.
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