The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 6:35 pm 
I could take it out. It is a new one same as the one I had in previously, I bought 3 at the same time. Not sure why it would cause the car to fail to start once the engine has warmed up though.

I just went out 2.5 mile trip, car started fine, last time it was running was Saturday, I got home switched off tried to restart no good!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 7:19 pm 
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Location: Shetland / here & there
Unable to start a hot engine would point to a vapour lock, but it has to be pretty hot to do that, leaky fuel pump valve?

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Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:44 pm 
Thanks for the feed back everyone it is appreciated.

I have replaced the pump. What is a vapour lock, can you describe what is and where it occurs? In the pump, fuel line, manifold?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:07 am 
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Pull the choke out even on a hot start and see if it goes then...then try a can of easistart. It may still not run but should fire and try to start.

If it doesnt run oir even fire you more likely have an ignition problem. Do you have a ballasted system still or electronic ignition and what coil?

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:06 pm 
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It could also be too rich - accelerator to the floor when turning over when hot, this will fully open the butterflies allowing more air in. Was shown this on a 1500 Spitfire which had just been driven into the garage for it's MOT and I couldn't restart it to get on the ramp.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 8:19 pm 
Back to basics on this one.
Get Air + fuel + spark and mix them together at the right time in the right quantity.

Took the plugs out, clenaed and gapped them, then checked the points, gap had closed up, looks like the heel has worn down against the distributor cam. So I adjusted the gap and started the engine. Went for a short run to warm it through, came home, switched off and tried restarting and yay started no problem!

Set the timing on with strobe light and adjusted the mixture too. All running nicely again.

Seems I got too caught up in the fueling problems and so overlooked an additional problem with the ignition. Thanks all for your ideas, especially Jonners, as it was that mention of ignition that prompted me to look at the plugs and points. I run an electronic ignition that is points triggered, I bought it from a chap on here about 8 years or so ago, he was selling a batch of them he had built for £35 each an it's still going strong.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 10:00 am 
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Sweet...
Use a blob of grease on the dizzy cam to keep the points heel from wearing. You cant stop it completely but it means
an annual look under the cap to see what's going on. As the gap closes the timing does slip back so slight loss of power
can occur...

Retiming after a regap is the right thing to do. If you have too big a gap you can get a high rev misfire as the coil doesnt have enough time
to charge properly, but unlikely on an 1850 in road use.

I use the maplin kit a lot which does that same job as yours...

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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