The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:50 pm 
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Nice plate work

This was mine from when I was 14 I'm nearly 48 now, a variety of styles and fonts and an 8 butchered for a E.


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Motorhead plate.jpg
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75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
2017 Jaguar XE R-sport
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:25 pm 
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Trevor, I've seen worse on some of the Range Rovers that reside in this area! :)

I added a smiley because I meant that in a nice way!!


Last edited by James467 on Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:42 pm 
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So my Rimmer Bros order has arrived and my carb bodies are back from Burlen freshly re-bushed but I need to finish one job before I start another.

The replacement reflective Vinyl arrived a couple of days ago so the first thing I did was to strip down the front plate and replace the vinyl on that.

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I'm really happy with the finish now so on to the rear plate.

As it came off of the car

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I turned on the flash to highlight some of the damage to the vinyl

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The new vinyl compared to the old, I'd say that it was almost a perfect match.

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Numbers, old vinyl stripped off and thoroughly cleaned, the vinyl came off a lot easier than the front.

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You probably can't see it in the photo but I have polished the rim.

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New vinyl stuck down ready for trimming. Excuse the air bubbles!

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Vinyl trimmed and ready for the lettering which was simply cleaned in Fairy liquid and hot water.

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Lettering attached with new star-lock fasteners, I'm really pleased with the result.

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Time to clean and tidy up the workbench ready for the next job!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:07 pm 
uhm, WOW !

what a fantastic effort and great job you are doing here. Gobsmackingly good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to take all of the pics and post them up.

the fascination you Brits have with number plates is extraordinary, for the rest of us it is just a functional and mundane sign that fits front and rear !

stu


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 11:42 am 
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Thanks Stu! For me, numberplates and those small details are what really finish off a good restoration and add to the history of the car.

I haven't really done much in the last week other than collect a replacement bonnet from Keith (sprintypantsman), pick up some soda abrasive, aluminium oxide and glass bead all for use in the blast cabinet and organise the workshop. I'll have to switch my attention for the next couple of weeks to some urgent things that need to be done on the house now that the weather has changed. Old houses, like old cars, always have something that needs doing! As soon as I have the opportunity I'll finish stripping down the shell and get some bits sent off for powder coating. Need to get a move on, I'm running a bit behind schedule at the moment!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:01 pm 
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Whilst my in-laws are over I have been able to crack on with the car so this is going to be a bit of a strip down and cataloguing post.

I have managed to get the rest of the shell stripped down, the rest of the clutch and braking system are out as are the wiper motor, rear suspension and pedal assemblies. The only thing that remains is the wiring loom. I don’t need to look at this for now so it can stay where it is. Oh and looking at the photos the front spoiler is still there, I’ll try and get that off this weekend.

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You can see the extent of the accelerator pedal mount fatigue cracking here. When I put everything back together I’ll reinforce it, suggestions are welcome.

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Rear axle out…

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Load sensing valve looks seized…

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Rear shocks, the top caps look the same colour of one of my bikes in the 1990s!

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A bit of detail on how the brake pipes are routed, I tend to take a lot of photos like this for reference purposes.

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Everything out and on the drive ready to be cleaned

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:23 pm 
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Back into the workshop and continuing the strip down. I think this is one of the most important parts of a restoration, the more thorough I am here with the photos and cataloguing, the easier it will be when I’m putting things back together.

Clutch master cylinder and reservoir. Master cylinder is relatively new.

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Reservoir should clean up nicely in the blast cabinet..

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Brake servo just needs a coat of paint and the master cylinder just needs a clean.

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Pipes look very clean with little or no corrosion, they will still be replaced though.

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All stripped down and ready to be bagged up

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All the brake pipes have been carefully removed so they can be used as a template for new ones.

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Interestingly the accelerator pedal bracket has some corrosion where the crack in the body is. I can only think that water has been getting in there.

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On to the load sensing valve, I need the bracket off to be plated and I think it may be seized so I decided to strip it down.

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There was a small amount of corrosion on the shaft which prevented it from moving but other than that it came apart without trouble. The internals look fine and it looks like it just needs a good clean.

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Handbrake assembly, just very dirty. I have ordered a new rubber boot.

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Now everything off the car I can get on with some more restoration work! The carb bodies are back from Burlen and I have organised all of the parts that I want to be plated. These now need to be put through the blasting cabinet before I send them off. If my new compressor arrives tomorrow I should be able to do that this weekend.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 8:39 pm 
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James

Fascinating stuff. Reminds me of the journey I started on my restoration. And how I missed taking those important reference photos.

The cracking around the accelerator pedal mount is quite common. I did not discover the cracks in my bulkhead until long after the car was painted so I fitted two plates, one either side of the bulkhead. Details can be seen in my restoration thread somewhere. There are factory reinforcement plates available – details elsewhere on the forum.

I have one question though. You show a nice clean photo of the side view of the brake servo with the comment that the piping looks very clean with little or no corrosion and that the piping will be replaced. Why replace the pipes? I simply cleaned mine and painted them with an “aluminium” paint out of a rattle can.

I think you might find too that the clip sitting in the middle of the padding on the front of the engine bulkhead, above the exhaust heat shield which holds the brake pipe going to the front left wheel is something slightly special. I had a dickens of a job to find one that would sit there sufficiently proud of the bulkhead itself to hold that brake pipe.

I smiled too reading your earlier postings on the fettling of the number plates. Down here the number plates are issued by the authorities so there is no chance of doing what you have done here. If the number plate is damaged then there is little you can do other than either pay for a new set (and a different registration number) although some have imported made up plates from the UK. Not strictly legal but most seem to get away with it.

However it was that sort of cleaning and restoring of parts which probably gave me as much satisfaction as well. The thought that I was reusing most of what was originally on the car. It is surprising what you can clean with a toothbrush and a bit of detergent. Or a quick run past a wire brush on one end of the bench grinder. Just as it is surprising how well items such as those brake lines, and other little items like bolts and connectors (I am thinking of those which attach the gearbox cover to the car body), if not corroded, can be made to look like new, with a bit of that aluminium paint.

Keep up the good work.

Robert


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:23 pm 
Nice job and loads of pictures. Did my resto two years but still recognize a load of the parts coming of! Keep posting :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 12:53 pm 
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Thanks guys,
Quote:
I have one question though. You show a nice clean photo of the side view of the brake servo with the comment that the piping looks very clean with little or no corrosion and that the piping will be replaced. Why replace the pipes? I simply cleaned mine and painted them with an “aluminium” paint out of a rattle can.
Ah, that would be because I have OCD and want everything to look the same! :D Also, the car has been sitting for a while and I always wonder about the internal state of the brake lines if any water has got into the fluid.

Have been cracking on with the back axle and prop shaft so should have an update soon.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:40 pm 
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I still have a few of these left, a replica of an OE Triumph part:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22883&hilit=bulkhead+reinforcement

You'll see Robert's solution is also pictured within the above thread


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 2:24 pm 
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Thanks Alun, I’ll have one of those from you when I order all of the body panels I need from the club in the spring.

I’ve been a bit busy the past month looking after the kids and working on various parts of the house that need attention so NWL has taken a bit of a back seat. I’m still waiting on the powder coating and engine so I’m not too concerned.

My propshaft centre carrier had seen better days so I ordered a new one from Robsport, I also noticed that the cv joint gaiter/boot had a small split in it so after speaking to a few people and some investigation I managed to source a TR7 kit as apparently they have a cv joint at the diff end which is similar if not the same to the Dolomite one.

First off thanks to Jonners (John Tilson) and Ian (sprint95m) for the Dolly Wiki page covering this which I found after a forum search!

http://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/DOLOMIT ... eplacement

So down to business…

Mark the prop for reassembly alignment.

Using a large-ish old screwdriver I removed the press fit collar around the rubber gaiter and snipped off the steel band that holds the smaller end on the shaft.

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You can see a whole world of nasty cv joint grease down there!

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Since the rubber part of the centre carrier was disintegrating I cut it off to get it out of the way and as it was going to be replaced I also cut of the old rubber gaiter.

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To get the cv joint apart you need to use a suitable drift to force the joint over the internal clip and off the splines.

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Mine wouldn’t budge so I decided to disassemble the cv joint itself. The joint is held together by a ring that runs around the internal part of the driveshaft; this can be removed carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver. The two halves of the propshaft should then pull apart, make sure you don’t drop and loose the ball bearings.

You will then be left with this…

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You can then use your drift and remove the inner part of the joint from the shaft.

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You can see the clip that holds the CV joint in.

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The carrier is held on by a circlip and is a tight fit; I used a puller to remove mine.

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All ready to be cleaned up.

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This is the CV gaiter kit that I sourced, looks about the same and as far that I could see it would work nicely.

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All components cleaned in the parts washer and ready for reassembly

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I lightly greased the shaft to aid reassembly of the new carrier.

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New carrier in place and circlip on.

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The CV Joint side of the prop, I have cleaned it and lightly greased inside.

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The components simply slide in like so…

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Ta dah!!

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Don’t forget to refit the circular ring that retains everything and runs in the internal groove

New CV gaiter on and seal in place

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I have also greased the splines

Line up the alignment markings that I made on the prop and give it a good shove home, you should hear a click as the circlip is engaged on the splines, you may have to use a rubber mallet to help you.

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Feed the gaiter over and onto the flange.

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The old one was held in by a circular band, the new one by a zip tie. The one supplied looked like it was going to foul the inner parts of the joint so I replaced it for a lower profile version which should be fine given the range of movement on the prop.

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Gently mount the gator into the grooves on the prop and fit the retaining collar. You will probably need to gently tap it into position here.

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I then used a chisel to tap the collar back over its retaining ring. You will find that as you gradually crimp it up the collar will move in and clamp the gator into place.

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All finished and ready for a coat of paint.

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The universal joints were fine, I simply removed the screw and attached a grease nipple and gave them a greasing before replacing the cover screw.

I gave everything a through de-grease and a coat of primer followed by some satin black

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One refurbished propshaft, I’m quite pleased with the result.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:28 pm 
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The back axle came off the car without too many problems and on initial inspection it looked in pretty good condition with no leaks just covered in 30 years of general dirt.

So after a clean up and wire brush I thought I’d remove the diff cover and have a look at the state of play.

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Doesn’t look too bad after 107k

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Apart from the oil being a bit sludgy I see no reason to strip any of this down. I understand that sprint axles as long as they are properly maintained are pretty bullet proof. I have looked back through the service records and this one has had regular oil changes so I shouldn’t have anything to worry about.

Can someone tell me what this grease nipple lubricates?

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The backplates just had some surface rust on them, I can’t decide whether to take them off and have them powder coated. The only problem is that I don’t have a Churchill puller for the hubs and I don’t want to disturb the seals here.

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I have given everything coat of rust remover

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Rust remover doing its job

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It doesn’t look like it but that is now bare metal

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A coat of red oxide

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And a coat of gloss black

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And this is where I left it, I’m not happy with the gloss finish, I also brush painted it (don’t know what I was thinking!) and all of the other suspension components are satin black. I really don’t like it so I’ll strip off the gloss paint and re-coat it in satin. In the meantime I have put it in the garage for storage whilst I find a hub puller so I can take those back plates off and have them powder coated.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:06 pm 
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That's the breather not a grease nipple.

Nice job on the prop, I didn't know a TR7 CV boot fitted.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 11:24 am 
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Echo the comments on the prop. Great job...and now feel I could do one myself with your picture guide.

One for the wiki....

Also what rust remover did you use? Looks pretty effective.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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