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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 10:01 pm 
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Yep, completely agree with Steve as well Raf.

Sam, Binnys rad came from the same bloke so it will be the same as DTR.

I have one coming from GAT Rads with the help of Alun, he says the old chap knows his stuff and I trust the old man, Alun that is! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Lets keep the hot weather coming so I can test it!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:12 am 
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Let me know how you get on with the replacement rad - I might have to consider the same route for Binny.... I'm not sure my heart can take the stress of constantly watching the temp gauge all the way round the RBRR!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 11:52 am 
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It is hot! The Land Rover is parked in the shade and the thermometer says it's 32 degs, this corresponds with my weather station thingy which says its 35 ambient.

Excellent! :D

A huge thanks to Alun for taking a core and collecting my radiator from GAT Radiators in Brierley Hill.

Yesterday afternoon I pulled the old one out and compared, you can clearly see the difference, the new one also weighs considerable more.

Image

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Fan back on and new rad in!

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On to filling, I have got this down now thanks to Jonners and his method which I have adapted a bit.

HEATER ON HOT!!!! :oops:

I fill it up using a funnel specially cut down to it fits in the filler hole. I deliberately over fill leaving plenty in the funnel as a head, then gently squeeze all of the hoses being careful not to pull any expelled air back into the system.

Take your time! relax whilst doing it, have a beer or if you dont drink, a cup of tea!

Go back and do the same again! You'll be suprised how much of the fluid in the funnel disappears into the engine.

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Then I drain off anything left in the funnel, remove it, top off and fit the filler plug.

Start the car and run it for 3 minutes.

Stop, remove the filler cap, refit funnel top off again leaving plenty in the funnel and re squeeze all the hoses.

Once the air bubbles have stopped, drain off, remove funnel, top up and refit the filling cap.

Top up expansion tank if necessary, run up hot, check for leaks.

Go get yourself a beer because that's a job well done! :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 11:58 am 
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So back to the heat! It's around 33 degs so I ran the car down the M3 and back, about 25-30 miles or so in the traffic at various speeds up to a good 80 or so.

Temperature gauge was well under 3/4 and the car felt happier and the heater was off.

So given the temperature I would expect some expect needle movement and this is now acceptable to me.

Coming off the motorway onto 50/60 mph roads and the needle dropped to just over half way, quickly as well.

I'm happy with that.

All I need to do now is to set the temperature that the fan cuts in. Currently if I'm on the motorway it will be constantly on, so I think I have it set to come on at too low temperature.

I think if I set it to come in when the needle is closer to 3/4 then it would probably just cut in and out rather than trying to get the engine temp back down to half again.

Have to have a think about it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 12:29 pm 
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Am I right in thinking that export cars destined for hot countries had this little section behind the bumper removed?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 12:55 pm 
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This might help?
Image

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Current fleet: Triumph Dolomite Sprint '75, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570

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Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated it on pickup from dealer, was made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into, 4 times), Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 1:56 pm 
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Quote:
This might help?
Image
I was looking at retrofitting an a/c, according to that bulletin one may have been designed.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 8:44 pm 
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This bodge (which is what it IS) is a probably useless attempt to combat vaporisation (it SAYS its for rough running due to high underbonnet temps) in areas of high ambients.

Opening out that slot and other small frontal areas will do virtually NOTHING because it's not so much that the air can't get in, it's that it can't get OUT!

The quick and cheap cure is to pop the bonnet when sat in traffic, Rather more expensive, but permanent, is to put a set of louvres in the rear end of the bonnet! This will improve airflow through the rad, combat vaporisation by giving the hot air that would normally accumulate around the carbs an escape route and even help clear the screen on frosty mornings!

Of course, the extra holes that I have put in my car DO help a bit (and they look cool too!) but mine has a Saab rad which sits lower, so more of the rad is behind the standard metal! Also, I have EFi, so vaporisation is not an issue! Plus I've had to get creative with the front number plate too! PFA!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 8:58 pm 
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Thinking about electric fan activating temperatures, I would throw caution to the winds and have it come IN at 3/4 on the guage and drop out again a tad OVER 1/2!

An electric fan controls the temperature MUCH more accurately and reliably than ANY sort of engine driven fan can ever do. So you don't NEED the margin of error that is built into engine driven systems and can AFFORD to let the motor run hotter (and therefore more efficiently) than would normally be the case with a standard car. You just have to overcome the personal paranoia that is the birthright of all Dolomite enthusiasts! An electric fan fitted car will display a much wider range of readings than a standard one (where the aim is "rock steady in the middle at all times") You just have to get used to the fluctuations, difficult as that is!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 9:15 am 
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Thanks Steve!

Alun has mentioned that hes not too happy with the temp readings given the size of the new rad. This morning I tested the voltage stabalizer and it reads a solid 9.8 volts output. I have sourced a NOS Smiths one which I will test for comparison.

As for the temperature sender, it is a new one from Robsport. I have also been able to source a new old stock correct Smiths one from eBay (for NWL actually!) so when it arrives will be able to do a comparison.

Tony will have to tell me how to do that!! :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 9:25 am 
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Quote:
I was looking at retrofitting an a/c, according to that bulletin one may have been designed.
The TR7 came with AC as an option in the US Mahesh, have a look at that.
Quote:
Rather more expensive, but permanent, is to put a set of louvres in the rear end of the bonnet! This will improve airflow through the rad, combat vaporisation by giving the hot air that would normally accumulate around the carbs an escape route and even help clear the screen on frosty mornings!
And they look cool!

I have a spare bonnet that has a small rust hole in that area, I'm going to give them a go! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:21 am 
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As per my Facecloth post, do consider your spark plugs. Cooler running plugs made a huge difference to my Sprint. I think the standard NGK plug usually listed is a BP6EFS but I used a BP7EFS which is closer to the original spec in terms of heat range.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:46 am 
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Currently it has BP5ES' in it, which is fine for a lot of short town driving but out on the motorway it could be a bit too hot so switching out to a 6 or even 7 as you say may help.

It's a cheap easy switch so I cant see the harm in giving it a go!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 6:04 pm 
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A 7 is too cold.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 7:19 pm 
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So a 5 is too hot, and a 7 too cold, a 6 should be just right, (couldn't help it) :D

Saying that my car seems to prefer NGK BPR6EFIX10 Iridiums over standard.

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Construed as a public service, self preservation in reality.


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