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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:38 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Berkshire
Quote:
The underside: Im thinking I will wire brush it with a drill/angle grinder (that will be a fun job) and then neutralize the rust with something (any recommendations ?) and then underseal it with something suitable, Im told hammerite do a product for undersealing?
As far as I understand it, rust neutralisers don't really work. The only solution to rust is to remove it all, otherwise it will come back, eventually.
Quote:
I cant find any one out here that would replate the various small brackets in the suspension. Is there an alternative to doing this? Is there some kind of paint that will work instead - some sort of galvanizing paint or similar. And rather than getting the suspension components blasted I might just use the wire brush in a drill and paint them myself. I did this with the stag and it seemed to work quite well - or well enough for my purposes
I'll be doing my Toledo suspension with POR15. It goes extremely hard. Not cheap though. Infomercial.

_________________
Cheers,
Chris

1971 Triumph Toledo 2 door
1977 Triumph Stag
Toledo blog, Toledo & Dolomite part catalogues & repair manuals


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 11:08 pm 
Yes and having used it on my Imp its awful stuff to work with. Having a quick look on the net there seem to be a lot options available than when I used POR 15 on my Imp back in the day, hope fully there's a spray on option. Now I think about it I should do the wheel archs as well.
Seems strange that other Toledo I had underseal and this one dosent

Should I put any form of etch primer or anything on first ? I think not from memory?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:38 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Berkshire
You can spray POR15 if you thin it, you need the correct respirator.

No primer, but use the degreaser and metal prep. I've done the brake drums so far and found it easy to work with. I'm going to be doing the subframe and rest of the suspension this weekend.

_________________
Cheers,
Chris

1971 Triumph Toledo 2 door
1977 Triumph Stag
Toledo blog, Toledo & Dolomite part catalogues & repair manuals


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 9:56 pm 
Hi All
Does the Vehicle commission number tell em if the car was originally a 1300 or a 1500?

Ive noticed that this car doesn't have brake booster which the previous toledo did have. The parts acr did have one so im going to clean it up and put it in this car

The Commission number for this car is ADF 28870 DL

When I bought this car it was on the understanding that the registration was on hold however turns out that the registration has expired so I will have to get it re registered when the time comes, not sure if there are any ways around this.

SO ive started tidying up some of the parts to go back in the car including the brake booster - stripped it back with a cup brush on the angle grinder and will get some red etch primer on it soon, next it the blower which i may strip with paint stripper before etch primer and then black satin finish.

photos soon.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:52 am 
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TDC Member

Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:38 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Berkshire
Quote:
Does the Vehicle commission number tell em if the car was originally a 1300 or a 1500?
Yes

*ADG or ADH — these prefixes denote ‘Toledo’ model
range with 1300 cm3 engine and 2-door body.
ADF or ADK — these prefixes denote ‘Toledo’ model
range with 1300 cm3 engine and 4-door body.
ADM — this prefix denotes ‘Toledo’ model range with
1500 cm3 single-carburetter engine and 2-door
body.
ADP — this prefix denotes ‘Toledo’ model range with
1500 cm3 single-carburetter engine and 4-door
body.
ADS — this prefix denotes ‘Toledo’ model range with
1500 cm8 twin-carburetter engine and 4-door
body.**

_________________
Cheers,
Chris

1971 Triumph Toledo 2 door
1977 Triumph Stag
Toledo blog, Toledo & Dolomite part catalogues & repair manuals


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:16 am 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7005
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Your ADF commission number makes the car a 1300 4 door model, built before about September 73 (when the ADK update was introduced) this also explains the lack of a brake booster (and, I guess, the drum front brakes that it SHOULD be fitted with) as the booster and discs were only fitted on ADK 4 door 1300, ADH 2 door 1300 and 1500cc models. No need to panic though, as all the later parts from your donor car are bolt on replacements.

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 9:38 pm 
Thanks Steve.

Didnt think about the front brakes! - I haven't looked at them yet but I expect they are drums.

I'll have to think about the most best upgrade option.

Importing tracker jack brakes will probably be too expensive but are dolly sprint brakes a straight bolt on?

Whats the best option for what will be an uprated 1500?

Im half way through repainting the blower at present and have switched the ignition for the one out of the previous Toledo however I notice it has a different plug where it connects to the main loom - no worries though I think once I get a battery and the engine/gearbox in I will get a sparky to go over the electrics and check everything is working correctly.

I notice also that the fuse box is missing - any suggestions on a modern replacement?

I've put one of the black seats out of the old car in just to see how it looks - a black interior with in a Emerald green car looks pretty smart! Most of the trim in this car is out and fortunately the trim from the old car was in very good shape so I will be able to install that straight in. And i there's a local outfit in NZ that makes carpet kits for classic cars so Ill get a black carpets kit. Will be good to be able get the interior sorted fairly easily.

cheers

Alastair


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:08 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7005
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Save for the pads, (which are a harder compound for Sprint) and the size of the booster, the disc brake fitment for all Dolomite/Toledo models is exactly the same! (which, as you may have worked out from the popularity of the TJ conversion, make the Sprint a tad underbraked) You will need to acquire the full bit, caliper, disc, hub and including the suspension upright/stub axle but yes, it just bolts on!

On wiring plug discrepancies, this is another result of the early/late swap. early cars have grey moulded plugs and later ones have white Lucas/Rists plugs which the pins CAN be removed from. Colour codes should match at least, but the best thing to have done would have been to remove and swap in the entire loom from the donor. Isn't hindsight great?

You can get the stock 2 fuse box for pennies from a number of UK suppliers, or upgrade to 2 of them, fit a 4 fuse lucas box from a Spitfire/MGB, or any number of aftermarket blade fuse boxes containing from 4 to 16 fuses. It just depends on money, patience and how far you actually want to go! Anything is possible, my Vauxhall powered Sprint Auto, now has 22 fuses in 2 fuse boxes and 11 relays to complement it's 3 discrete wiring looms. But building the looms took me WEEKS of tedious work! I always did have a tendency to go a bit OTT with electrics!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 12:44 am 
Bit of slow progress on various bits of the Toledo.

Iv given the engine bay a tidy up and have painted some bits of it, its mostly in pretty good shape so am leaving most of it alone. Im painting the blower and the brake booster which im adding to this car as being a 1300 it didnt have a booster originally. As soon as the green paint turns up I'll finish this and put the various bits and pieces back in again - it will look a little bit tidier if nothing else. Im having a go at transplanting the vinyl interior from one of the doors cards onot another card, not sure how well this is going to work but if all turns to custard I can buy a replacement from rimmers if need be. This weeks job is to remove the front suspension and drop it off to get it sand blasted in the weekend. I have also tracked down some 1500 disc brakes (this car originally being a 1300 has drums) and will get the uprights blasted along with all the other bits, Ill also get the front subframe off and blasted at the same time and see if I can get it all back on the car with new bushes by Christmas.

Imminent acquisitions include coilover shocks - i'll leave the springs as is for now and see how the ride height looks, new ploy bushes all round. Hopefully the discs I am getting will be in all right shape - will have to see how things looks once they turn up.
Image

Image

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:15 am 
Half way through dismantling the front suspension, no surprises really - once I have it all dismantled I will get it sand blasted and then repaint with an aerosol can my self.

Im looking at the comparative price of poly bushes from the usual suppliers - rimmers site is just so easy to use compared to others im tempted just to go with them but will se what Chris Witor comes back with price wise.

Im still a bit bamboozled by the spring / shock absorber situation. And to complicate things further I will have to get the car re-certified as the registration has expired on it, and if you make any modifications to the car (like lowering the ride height) it has to be certified by an engineer - or something - all sounds a bit over the top but thankfully it going to be a while before I get to that stage, however does mean I have to consider any changes from standard that I make now.

May be I should just put a ARB on it and it leave at that?

Im wondering if I can use adjustable height height shocks with the standard springs? Any way will keep digging.....

Im also noticing there are quite a few parts missing from the car which have been taken while it was at the wreckers. So far that includs front brake lines, the small panels that fit in the panels behind the front wheels and the electrical 'box' that sits up near the brake booster ( I can imagine it will be fun trying to find one of those!)

Im changing the front brakes from drum to disc, hopefully these will turn up today from a toledo being wrecked down in the South Island. Hopefully the disks OK and I will replace the wheel bearings.;

cheers
Alastair


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 12:33 am 
Disk brakes turned up today and look to be in great condition - they will be dismantled next week and most bits will be added to the list to be sand blasted. im thinking ill repaint all the parts myself with aerosol paint so ill have to create a little spray booth somewhere.
Have to bite the bullet and order new bushes - the rimmers ones are cheaper so while i wait for them to turn up Ill make a start on the mudguards and under the car. With the mudguards I think Ill heat gun off the old material sand it down and then paint with the underseal.
Will look good when its all finished hopefully, then start on the backend.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 9:41 pm 
I've managed to get all the front suspension off the car - some parts are pretty locked up such as one of the bottom links however Once I get it in the vice I should be able to get is all freeed up. I had to cut one of the steering pivot joints off - Im planing on replacing both of these anyway so no big deal.

Next step is to remove the steering rack - not sure if I will get it checked properly by a professional or do it myself, certainly the steering tie rods either need to be tidied up or replaced and i want to repaint the steering column and bearing panel where it comes through form the car interior - so that small panel will get added to the bucket of bits to get blasted and painted.

Im still not sure what the best combination of shock absorber and springs I should be using. The car is mostly going to be used as a run about but it will get pushed into some 'lite motorsport' should the opportunity arise.

So would be great to hear what arrangement you think is most suitable

cheers

Alastair


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:24 am 
Have now got the sub-frame out and the entire front end in bits although Ive yet to dismantle the hubs and brakes.

Im going to get the springs and the sub-frame blasted as well as the brackets that hold the suspension to the car (what are they called?) I'll wire brush and paint the rest of the suspension components myself and then paint everything myself. Complaints from management about money being spent - so will only get blasted that which I cant wire brush myself

I had hoped that the shock absorbers would be reuse sable unfortunately they're going to have to be replaced. Will try and find some second hand ones - Gaz ones are available in NZ but they are very pricey. Would be good to get some second hand shocks even if it is only as a temporary measure

So if you've got some suitable shock absorbers that you would be happy to part with please let me know

Im replacing the springs/ front hubs/ brakes with those from a 1500 and i was hoping that may be the shocks that were original to this the car may be reusable but they look worse than the replacement ones. So will keep my eye out for shocks. Anyway my main aim has been to get the bits that I need dismantled so that they can be taken to the blaster this weekend - and fortunately I've managed to do that Yay me!

Limited expectations as to what I will get done in the next wee while - this being the crazy time of the year - but hopefully I should be able to get all the suspension front hubs and brakes stripped and painted. pics to follow shortly


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 4:38 pm
Posts: 535
Location: South Benfleet, Essex
Here are some items I stumbled upon which might interest you:

Trade Me Motors >Used Cars >Triumph >Triumph Toledo 1500 1975

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-c ... aa273976bc


Triumph Toledo 1500 Original Handbook 1972 No. 545140 non UK market

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Toledo ... Swo4pYcOIF

Original Owners Handbook for the Triumph Toledo 1500cc

This was not for the UK Market, but covers RHD & LHD

Publication Number 545140

Published 1972

72 pages + card cover

Size 14cm x 21cm

Good used condition with slight marking to the cover



Two 1972 TRIUMPH TOLEDO 1500 New Zealand Brochures - Unique to NZ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-1972-TRIUM ... xyjxlTKpQJ

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:52 pm 
Im looking at the situation with my front suspension bolts - most if not all of them need to be replaced.

Im trying to find a listing of the description of the bolts so I can order more locally. There is a listing in the Operations manual however it dosent state the part number or the bolt length - Im trying to get a list together so I can order replacements. Does anyone have such a list - im told the older Operations manual has such a list.

Does any one has such a list ?

thanks

Alastair


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