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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 1:11 am 
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Location: Wellington NZ
Hi All
Well Im just waiting for the brake bits (non squeal plates) from Rimmers before I can put the brakes back together and thats the front end more or less wrapped up, Ive also ordered a battery bracket kit and a set of mounts for the gearbox and battery and the piping for the fuel line should turn up soon as well so ill need to to get on those small piper bender tools to bend it neatly - some of the angles are quite tight so best use the correct tool to get the best result. Also need to make the connect from the brake booster to the 3 point junction as the current pipe is a bit short being for the non boosted 1300 brake assembly.
Im looking forward to getting the motor back in and getting that all sorted out, For now except for the carb (HS6 rather than 4) It will stay standard for now - a decent distributor may have to wait for a while. I hope all of the serviceable items for the motor are available locally.
So I guess I should get
new leads
new oil filter
new fan belt
new coil (bosch?)
replace the oil
new spark plugs
replace the points condenser etc

I guess I could take the sump off just to have a look see but may be best left alone till I see what happens when I turn the key (i need to get my car mad sparky to go over the wiring as I have put the ignition unit out of the doner car (which has a key which I got made at some expense) into this car however the plastic connecting plug is different between the ignition wiring and the rest of the car so hopefully he will be able to sort that out. And the rocker cover could do with a paint also. So plenty to do.

Thinking ahead to paint time - Im thinking how much prep I can do to save money. Im looking to get a presentable rather than perfect result so will need to discuss this with the panel beater. Any ideas much appreciated.

cheers

Alastair

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Alastair Cox
1971 Triumph Toledo
1975 Triumph Stag
2001 BMW 530i


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 9:57 pm 
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Just for a change of scene in the weekend I decided to look at the carb situation.

I cleaned the up the HS6 carb and got half way through cleaning up the HS4 carb - both were completely caked in all manner of grime and oil - so they are both now clean enough to work on.

(my carb collection now includes 5 Imp Solex carbs, a pair of stromberg 125s and two SU carbs - I might set up my own carb museum!)

Unfortunately the standard plastic aircleaner is broken so I either need to find another one or use an aftermarket arrangement - any ideas on what to use as far as other aircleaners are best? From my Imp experience Ive been told the factory aircleaner is often the best to use

So as far as the carb itself are concerned the plan is to use the HS6 carb, it looks like from what I can see a straight swap - what will I need to do to run this carb instead of the HS4. Will it need a different needle/jet etc? Is there some way of calculating which jet etc should be used? Or is it best left till I can get the car on a rolling road and set up properly.

Ill have a look around on you tube and see if I can find some instruction on cleaning etc of these carbs

Cheers

Alastair

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Alastair Cox
1971 Triumph Toledo
1975 Triumph Stag
2001 BMW 530i


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 4:48 pm 
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Location: Canvey Island, Essex
Quote:
Just for a change of scene in the weekend I decided to look at the carb situation.

I cleaned the up the HS6 carb and got half way through cleaning up the HS4 carb - both were completely caked in all manner of grime and oil - so they are both now clean enough to work on.

(my carb collection now includes 5 Imp Solex carbs, a pair of stromberg 125s and two SU carbs - I might set up my own carb museum!)

Unfortunately the standard plastic aircleaner is broken so I either need to find another one or use an aftermarket arrangement - any ideas on what to use as far as other aircleaners are best? From my Imp experience Ive been told the factory aircleaner is often the best to use

So as far as the carb itself are concerned the plan is to use the HS6 carb, it looks like from what I can see a straight swap - what will I need to do to run this carb instead of the HS4. Will it need a different needle/jet etc? Is there some way of calculating which jet etc should be used? Or is it best left till I can get the car on a rolling road and set up properly.

Ill have a look around on you tube and see if I can find some instruction on cleaning etc of these carbs

Cheers

Alastair
Given that I am using the air cleaner that was specific to the late-model Triumph Dolomite 13/1500 with single SU carburettor & dual-circuit brake master cylinder, my original air cleaner for the Triumph Toledo 13/1500 with single SU carburettor & single-circuit brake master cylinder is surplus to my needs.

Late-model Triumph Dolomite 1300 engine compartment (plan view) showing dual-circuit brake master cylinder and associated single-carburettor air-filter housing

Image

Late-model Triumph Dolomite 1300 with dual-circuit-brake master cylinder, associated air-filter box & single-carburettor adapter

Image

Late-model Triumph Dolomite 13/1500 dual-circuit-brakes associated air-filter box & single-carburettor adapter 12G3590

Image

Late-model Triumph Dolomite 13/1500 dual-circuit-brakes associated air-filter element GFE1005

Image

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Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


Last edited by naskeet on Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:32 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 4:25 pm 
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Quote:
If you are replacing the fuel pipe with Kunifer 10 (cupro-nickel alloy comprising 90% copper & 10% nickel) pipe, then using in-line connectors & unions (preferably bronze rather than brass or plated steel) would probably be a better, more durable option than using flexible hose and Jubilee clips.

Unless your existing brake pipes are already Kunifer 10 or similarly durable and rust-resistant material, I would be inclined to replace them with Kunifer 10 pipe (excellent corrosion resistance and very easy to bend & flare) whilst you are refurbishing and/or upgrading the rest of the braking system.
Here are some links to useful and/or interesting information about Kunifer 10 brake pipes

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6297

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... _tube.html

http://www.brakeconnect.com/cunifer-brake-line

http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/cop ... brake-line

In addition to using Kunifer 10 brake pipe as part of my Triumph Toledo's braking system overhaul & upgrade program, I shall also be using Automec silicone hydraulic fluid, which I have previously used in the Toledo's hydraulic clutch and my 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan's hydraulic braking system.

http://www.automec.co.uk/

http://www.automec.co.uk/products/silic ... utch-fluid

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 3:38 pm
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Location: Canvey Island, Essex
Quote:
Yes the upgrades to the car are going to be:

- Minilites (if i can ever find any second hand ones - due I think to their obscure stud PCD second hand ones rarely come up for sale) for now I will make do with the standard wheels and get them blasted and painted. (Id be happy with some sprint wheels which seem to be common enough in the Uk - but are expensive to ship over here - If you have a spare set and are happy to cooperate in sending them to NZ please let me know!
There is a Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with “minilite” style wheels up for sale on British Ebay at the moment, but I suspect you would need to buy the whole car in order to acquire the wheels!

Image

TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850HL DEVELOPMENT CAR ONE OF ONLY TWO MADE FASTER THAN SPRINT?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-DOLO ... 2886290233

There also exist some 6 x 15 inch "minilite" style wheels that were fitted to MG-F and/or MG-TF cars, but the rim-width of 6 inches and wheel-offset which is thought to be 28 mm (yet to be reliably confirmed or refuted), could potentially cause problems with the tyre sidewalls rubbing against the outboard areas of the rear wheel arches of a Triumph Toledo or Dolomite.

Image

Image

There are other styles of MG-F and/or MG-TF 6 x 15 inch wheels, whose wheel-offsets are also believed to be 28 mm (yet to be reliably confirmed or refuted), but in my opinion the 5-spoke and 6-spoke styles look out of place on a Triumph Toledo or Dolomite. The multi-spoke hairpin style don't look too bad, but they also potentially create tyre sidewall rubbing problems.

Image

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 3:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:49 am
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Location: Wellington NZ
Toledo Update

I had a quick look at the engine which is lying right in the way of everything in the garage – I’m keen to get it tidied up and into the car.

I took the manifolds off the engine without incident. The exhaust manifold needs the tab to the intake manifold needs to be welded back on and it needs a stud replacing but is otherwise ok as is the intake manifold. should I replace the manifold gaskets ? - they look to be Ok as is

The bypass pipe and the thermostat housing needs to be replaced but otherwise – hopefully – all looks to be ok.

I had plans to install a HS6 carb to replace the HS4 carb but I’ve been told by the local carb specialists in Auckland that I would be better off going with a weber ‘solution’ that they are going to email details to me – which will allow me to use the current manifold(s), exhaust etc – we’ll see what they come up with!

I managed to get some underseal onto the underside car as well onto everything else as well – not enough space under the car to do this as well I would have liked but it’s not too bad. I’ve found some Kunifer fuel pipe and the relevant clips as well as a pipe bender – so hopefully I’ll be able to get all that back together again. Not sure how well the pipe bending will go – fingers crossed.

Other things on the horizon are getting the wiring sorted – I need to find a mobile auto sparky to do this.

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Alastair Cox
1971 Triumph Toledo
1975 Triumph Stag
2001 BMW 530i


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:47 pm 
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Location: Canvey Island, Essex
Quote:
Toledo Update

The bypass pipe and the thermostat housing needs to be replaced but otherwise – hopefully – all looks to be ok.

I’ve found some Kunifer fuel pipe and the relevant clips as well as a pipe bender – so hopefully I’ll be able to get all that back together again. Not sure how well the pipe bending will go – fingers crossed.

Other things on the horizon are getting the wiring sorted – I need to find a mobile auto sparky to do this.
I'm pretty good at automotive electrical wiring, but New Zealand is a bit too far for me to commute! I might get there sometime in the future, but not any time soon. I have a pipe dream about trying to arrange a 1 year sabbatical at the University of Otago in Dunedin, but I doubt whether it would ever come to fruition. :cry:

If bending Kunifer 10 fuel pipe is anything like bending Kunifer 10 brake pipe, using a proper pipe bender, I think you might be surprised at how easy it is! :D

My Toledo's engine-coolant bypass pipe looks quite rusty, so I shall be interested to learn how you get on with yours!?!

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:41 pm 
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Here's a set of "minilite" style wheels featured on Facebook, but if as the vendor states, the offset of these 5J x 13 inch wheels, is about 19 mm, then this might cause problems with regard to the rear tyres' sidewall rubbing and/or certification in New Zealand. At an asking price f £250, they seem rather expensive to me! :shock:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3886875 ... 010211346/

Four 5J x 13 inch competition 'minilite' style wheels (19 mm offset approx.)

Image

Eighteen aluminium 3/8 UNF wheel nuts

Image

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 2:47 am 
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Location: Wellington NZ
Well bending the Kunifer fuel pipe didn't seem to be too much of a problem - I got a pipe bender for the tight angles which worked well. I used the old pipes as a template which helped greatly - will put them in next weekend by which time the new pipe clips will have arrived from Bresco in the UK. I've managed to find a stainless steel coolant by pass pipe locally as well as a thermostat housing and related gasket, once these turn up and the engine mounts from Rimmmers I'll book the engine crane again and drop the engine in and see how we go!
A friend who is an Auto electrician and (a stag owner) said he would sort out the electricals for me. I should probably look at getting a battery as well.
Other bits on the go include giving the Valve cover a repaint - Im told it will be OK with standard paint as opposed to heat resistant paint.

Nigel - Thanks for your comments on those wheels - I've expressed some interest in them - your comments on the offset are noted - maybe I should buy locally in case of issues with offset and them fitting properly but that will mean I'll probably have to buy them new cos they never come up secondhand, for now strand wheels will have to do.

Im on the lookout for a driver side front plastic grill if anybody has a spare one.....

Anyway small steps forward......

cheers

Alastair

_________________
Alastair Cox
1971 Triumph Toledo
1975 Triumph Stag
2001 BMW 530i


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 3:35 pm 
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Quote:
Nigel - Thanks for your comments on those wheels - I've expressed some interest in them - your comments on the offset are noted - maybe I should buy locally in case of issues with offset and them fitting properly but that will mean I'll probably have to buy them new cos they never come up secondhand, for now strand wheels will have to do.

cheers

Alastair
I know how to accurately measure & calculate wheel offset, but one cannot be sure that all vendors know what measurements & calculations to make!

My 5½ x 13 inch Cosmic alloy wheels (21 mm offset) were okay on my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300, when fitted with 175 SR13 (i.e. 175/80 R13) radial tyres, but suffered outboard sidewall rubbing problems in the rear wheel arches when 185/70 R13 tyres were substituted

If those 5J x 13 inch "Minilite" wheels are truly of 19 mm offset, you would probably be okay with regard to rubbing if using 175/70 R13 tyres, but I would not want to stake my reputation on it and there is still the matter of complying with New Zealand regulations regarding deviation from factory-standard wheel specifications!

So far, I have driven my Triumph Toledo 1300 with several combinations of wheel, tyre and front steering and/or suspension geometry as follows, but it was with the Cosmic alloy wheels (offset = 21 mm) and low-profile, Firestone S211, 185/70 SR13 tyres, that I experienced the unnervingly rapid transition from under-steer to over-steer when negotiating bends under power!

Cosmic 5½ x 13 inch alloy wheel – 21 mm offset | Uniroyal Rallye 180, 175 SR13 radial tyre | factory-standard front-wheel camber => Very civilised, predictable steering characteristics

Cosmic 5½ x 13 inch wheel – 21 mm offset | Kelly-Springfield Steelmark, 175 SR13 radial tyres | factory-standard front-wheel camber => Very civilised, predictable steering characteristics

Cosmic 5½ x 13 inch wheel – 21 mm offset | Kelly-Springfield Steelmark, 175 SR13 radial tyres | all front-wheel camber-adjustment shims removed => Very civilised, predictable steering characteristics


Cosmic 5½ x 13 inch wheel – 21 mm offset | Firestone S211, 185/70 R13 radial tyres | all front-wheel camber-adjustment shims removed => unnerving transition from under-steer to over-steer when negotiating bends under power

Triumph Dolomite Sprint GKN 13 x 5½ inch wheels – 35 mm offset | Firestone S211, 185/70 R13 radial tyres | all front-wheel camber-adjustment shims removed => Very civilised, predictable steering characteristics

This later led me to wonder, whether the Cosmic wheels’ lesser offset (offset = circa 21 mm) in combination with the ‘original’ 175 SR13 tyres’ circa 5•5% larger rolling-radius, might have wholly or partially cancelled each other’s effects on steering offset (aka scrub radius), to retain similar steering characteristics, to what would probably have been the norm, with the original factory-fitted wheels!?! Having never driven the car, with the original factory-fitted 4 x 13 inch steel wheels (offset = circa 35 mm?) and 155 SR13 tyres, I could only speculate.

I suspect that you might have a similarly unnerving experience, if you were to fit the “Minilite” style 5 x 13 inch wheels (offset = circa 19 mm) with 175/70 R13 tyres. You would probably be okay with 175 R13 (i.e. 175/80 R13) tyres, but these are becoming difficult to obtain!?!

I shall be interested to discover what kind of steering characteristics I experience, when I substitute my set of MG Maestro 5½J x 15 inch alloy wheels (offset = 31 mm) with either 185/65 R15, 185/60 R15 or 185/55 R15 tyres!?!

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 2:38 am 
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Well have managed to get the fuel and brake pipes back under the car without too many problems. I have left the back 1/3rd of the fuel pipe to do when I tackle the back end which will include stripping everything down and renewing bushes etc. I was going to do this at the same time as the rest of the suspension but I think Ill come back to it once I have the car up and running. I have also got the replacement bit s for the engine - thermostat housing, coolant by pas pipe, engine mounts and I have painted the valve cover. I will reattach all of the above apart from the coolant pipe once I have the engine back in.
I decided to revert to the standard HS4 carb for now just to get the engine running. Once the engine condition has proven to be 'usable' i'll reassess the carb situation I have an overhaul kit and linkage arriving soon hopefully.
So I hand better go and book an engine crane!
cheers
Alastair

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Alastair Cox
1971 Triumph Toledo
1975 Triumph Stag
2001 BMW 530i


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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 5:43 am 
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When I had a Dolomite 1300, I changed the bypass pipe for a stainless steel one (bought form T.D. Fitchett). Don't forget to fit a new olive as well. They are literally "fit-and-forget".

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
****Meetings are currently on hold due to the coronavirus pandemic****
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Waiting for me to give it some love)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the workhorse)
1995 BMW E36 318i (M265 PNC - Project Bimmer, the 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - the current project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 3:20 am 
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Tasks for the long weekend (Queens Birthday)
Change front subframe bolts for shorter ones - current ones are too long (or the thread is too short) replacements arent stainless but will do for now
Do up steering arm pivot bolts on hubs - for some reason these have escaped being done up - will need to be undone for alignment at some point in the future
Buy 5/16ths engine mounting bolts - bought 3/8th and they're too big! (unlucky guess)
Install Engine mounts
Get a outlet pipe made for the fuel tank - "i'll just put that somewhere where I will remember where it is..."
Pick up exhaust manifold with new exhaust pipe studs - was advised against bolt as with the constant heating and cooling they are more likely to come undone
Change accelerator pedal - fortunately the pedal from the donor car still has the cable attached so will put that in instead of the current one
Book engine crane for next weekend!

Im busy researching my options for getting the car painted in our spring or summer. Due to cost I will have to do a lot of the work but the welding will have to be done by the pros as will the final paint job but I think can do most of the prep given that its only only outer panels and the boot being painted.

Would be good to hear of others experiences doing this sort of thing (painting) - what is the best method of stripping the old paint? I have one of those fibre type disc things so will see how good that is. Aerosol priming? I imagine you etch prime then high build primer, then flat back using progressively finer sand paper...? Any thoughts much appreciated

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Alastair Cox
1971 Triumph Toledo
1975 Triumph Stag
2001 BMW 530i


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 3:17 pm 
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Quote:
When I had a Dolomite 1300, I changed the bypass pipe for a stainless steel one (bought form T.D. Fitchett). Don't forget to fit a new olive as well. They are literally "fit-and-forget".
I looked on the T. D. Fitchett website but couldn't find any bypass pipe listed for either the Toledo 1300 or Dolomite 1300!?!

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 7:34 pm 
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Quote:
When I had a Dolomite 1300, I changed the bypass pipe for a stainless steel one (bought form T.D. Fitchett). Don't forget to fit a new olive as well. They are literally "fit-and-forget".
I looked on the T. D. Fitchett website but couldn't find any bypass pipe listed for either the Toledo 1300 or Dolomite 1300!?!
Fitchetts website is particularly poor! But they've only had one for a handful of years and are still rooted firmly in the 19th century!
However, give them a ring, you'll find them very helpful and their mail order service is first class.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
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