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 Post subject: VYK The Russet 78 Sprint
PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:55 pm
Posts: 436
Location: Maidstone
Hello all.

VYK The Russet turned up on the back of a trailer not so long ago.

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I had been looking for a tidy, running, and MOTd car for a little while, but as usual my lack of patience got the better of me and I bought a car that needs more work than I had originally been prepared to take on! As in...... the car is NOT running, NOT MOTd, has its interior stripped out, needs a clutch, etc etc Oh well, must try harder....... The body IS quite tidy though which swayed me to buy it.

There’s plenty to do and I’m sure there will be more discoveries as I dig into the car. It won’t be a show worthy car, I’m aiming for a tidy regular driver. I have restored a few cars in the past and whilst this is more of a mini project than full restoration, I thought it would be nice to have a thread to document my efforts. I will enjoy some tinkering and post my successes and failures alike....

Progress will be slow because I’m also renovating our house which we have recently moved into. The garage is quite a bit smaller than I have been lucky enough to have in the past. But a recent shed purchase has allowed me to clear some stuff out of the garage and make some room so that I can swing some spanner’s about. :thumbsup:

First job then is to try and get VYK running. So; new battery, fresh fuel and filter, check points gap, plugs, got spark? Got fuel? Cranked over a few times and burst into life! Only to die seconds later with fuel pouring out of the waxstat union on the front carb. Bugger.

Forum was duly searched for waxstat info as I had never even heard of such a thing. I came across some good information and decided to do the 4p conversion whilst I had the carbs off for a minor recondition and clean. I’m a bit of a tight arse I know but how could I resist? I’ve just got to see if it actually works.

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I think old Queenie looks right at home in there.......

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All fitted back up, but haven’t yet had the chance to set the carbs up and try to get VYK running again...
I’ll report back soon I hope.... :D


Last edited by Bish on Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 9:21 am 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2017 6:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: NANTWICH.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Dolo ... 1438.l2649

It looks like a very good starter sprint :D Unlike the one above that has just seen the light of day after 30 years. Keep us all posted on your progress :D

Tony.

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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:06 pm
Posts: 1162
Location: Bristol
Yet another Russet Brown they do seem to last.


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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 5:54 am 
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Location: Maidstone
VYK is up and running rather nicely thanks to some more tinkering and Jonners excellent tuning guide. I did have a problem with fuel pouring from the overflow of the float bowl on the rear carb, which was a bit of a shock! Investigation leads me to believe that tiny shards of rubber from the float bowl rubber seal to jet union, have been getting into the needle valve and not allowing it to seal and shut the fuel off.
Thankfully new seals etc are available on good old eBay and its drama over for now........................
better order some spares!!

Does anyone know if there should be some kind of pipe work fitted to the overflows on the float bowls? Mine is decidedly pipework free and it all looks a bit dodgy.

Cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 9:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2017 3:35 pm
Posts: 956
Location: Filey, North Yorkshire
Not sure about Dolomites, but early Spitfires with twin SU carbs had pipes on the overflow, but later ones didn't.

Great progress!

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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 6:10 pm 
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Location: Bristol
On 1500 Dolomites the early cars did not have the overflow pipes but the later cars after about 1980 have them. I have both 1977 and 1980 cars. If you wish to fit the overflow pipes it looks as if all you need is a different tops to the float chambers.


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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 2:44 am 
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Thanks for the advice. I will run a couple of pipes off the overflows to route any petrol out of harms way. I gave VYK a good warm up today and the carbs stayed bone dry, so all good. Time for a flush.......

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Managed to get a lot of the rusty crud out of the rad/engine, and expansion tank. Nice fresh oil and filter, new Bosch platinum plugs.

Whilst warming the old girl up with the flushing additives in, I noticed what I thought was a small electric shock from the gearstick to the palm of my hand. Thought no more of it but later noticed that my rev counter had packed up. On checking the fuse, it had blown. A quick search of the forum leads me to investigate the overdrive switch to find that it’s shorting out and is the cause of the blown fuse and lack of instruments.
So, a couple of more parts duly ordered and another job joins the growing list...........


Last edited by Bish on Fri Dec 07, 2018 6:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 10:08 am 
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Location: Bristol
I will attach a couple of photo's that show the later float chamber tops have an extra pipe for the overflow. I do not know if you can modify the early tops to connect an overflow pipe. Is that what you will be attempting to do?

When it comes to the O/D cable up through the gear stick I have replaced the original wiring with normal home ceiling rose twin sheathed cable which is heat resisting. The addition sheath gives more protection. It is quite tight withing the gear knob but at a push I think you can adapt the normal spade connector to made the connections if you cut one side off. See photo.
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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 2:39 am 
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Good work Richard, thanks for the photos. I do have the correct float chamber tops with the overflows - there’s just no pipes fitted at the moment.

Good work with the overdrive wiring too, that’s a neat job with the connectors, I had been wondering how to replace the connections at the gear stick if I were to make a loom myself. It may be that all I need to do is replace the connections because that appears to be where my problem lies. If so I will use your solution of cut down spades. I won’t know for sure until I inspect the rest of the loom when I remove the gearbox for the clutch and flywheel change. Hopefully I will get started on that at the weekend...........


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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 8:11 pm 
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Blimey, VYK is proving to be a right pain in the butt to work on!
I’m in the process of removing the gearbox to change the clutch and flywheel. Unfortunately I don’t have the facilities to crane the engine and box out together so I’m working underneath in a single garage. I can’t believe how bad the access is for the exhaust manifold to downpipe connection. I’ve got just the middle bolt out, the top one moves a little then siezes, and I can’t even see how I can get a spanner or socket to turn the bottom one due to the limited space! Can you really get to the bottom bolt from underneath? Ive used half a can of plus gas and some heat but have had to walk away before I break something.

I’ve found this thread; viewtopic.php?t=33048 which looks useful. I may have to go down the route of taking the manifold off? Does anyone have any other tips please?
The downpipe has been butchered in the past and I have a new one to fit so I’m not bothered about butchering it further.

Looks like I also need a prop centre bearing carrier as mine has seen better days. Any one bought one recently that can report on supply and quality? I’ve seen the thread on the Ford transit conversion but don’t fancy that.

I’m in that - one step forward two steps back - period that you get when tinkering with old cars. All very frustrating! But I will get there.....
On a more positive note, the engine is running quite nicely. And having now got the car up on stands and had a proper look underneath, it all appears to be solid with just one small patch of welding on one of the chassis legs that I don’t like the look of, so will re do it.

So much for dreaming of being on the road this year......... :roll:


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 Post subject: Okay........
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:40 am 
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Location: Caithness, Scotland
Quote:
Looks like I also need a prop centre bearing carrier as mine has seen better days. Any one bought one recently that can report on supply and quality? I’ve seen the thread on the Ford transit conversion but don’t fancy that.
Why not?
The Ford mount is a cheaper alternative which is very long lasting.



Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 4:34 pm 
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Dave Mac Props in Coventry have remanufactured them; good quality, though the one I bought had metric threads in the mountings.


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 Post subject: Re: Okay........
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:14 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Looks like I also need a prop centre bearing carrier as mine has seen better days. Any one bought one recently that can report on supply and quality? I’ve seen the thread on the Ford transit conversion but don’t fancy that.
Why not?
The Ford mount is a cheaper alternative which is very long lasting.



Only that I just want something off the shelf that fits. No modification needed, I’ve got enough to do already!


Last edited by Bish on Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:14 pm 
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Quote:
Dave Mac Props in Coventry have remanufactured them; good quality, though the one I bought had metric threads in the mountings.
Thanks for that. I’ve sent an email.


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 Post subject: Re: VYK The Russet
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 4:40 pm 
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Well today was a better day to be in the garage. I invested in one of these at the weekend - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+T ... ack/p71324

Removing the heater blower motor gives enough space to get my new favourite tool in to heat the top bolt enough to free it off.
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I also found access to the bottom bolt easier with the starter motor removed
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I say easier lightly because it’s still only an eighth of a turn on the spanner at a time, but it’s now off and I’m relieved to have not sheared any bolts.
Looking at the old and new downpipe s together you can see where the old ones been butchered in the past. The new one is a Rimmers stainless which matches the rest of the system so it will be going on when the time is right. I know looking at old threads that jonners didn’t like them - or much else from Rimmers- but has anybody else had any experience of fitting one? That angle on the downpipe to middle pipe looks a bit funky to me? The old one was blowing like a good un too!
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With renewed enthusiasm I cracked on and the gearbox is now out too!
A good day! Now all I need is for England to stuff Tunisia and it will be a great day!


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