Sorry Tony, I keep forgetting to get those measurements for you. From the seam between the wing and the valence the hole sits 12" in, then 3 3/4" up from the lower edge (on a Sprint).
So on to the floors and chassis legs, the floor pans looked ok, but on further inspection they were very pitted and pinholed. The NS floor was damaged as a result of a previus repair done to the chassis leg. So it was off with the old and on with a new set from the club.
Not difficult, just uncomfortable when you're laying on your back! The best way to do it is to remove as much of the underseal amd paint as you can so that you can see the spot welds, which can then be drilled out. The subframe bolt tube can then be removed by using a 25mm hole saw which leaves enough hole to fit the new one in, I cut the subrame off the old one for ease. There is no point in me going in to how to remove them as Robert uses the same method as me and he already did a great write up on how to do it here:
https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 66#p325407
So its off with the old which was a good thing as you can't see it from the outside but it was about to go...
and on with the new, or well test fitting the new one!
20191009_115151 by
james_shephard_uk, on Flickr
You can see where moisture had been sitting around the endge of the sound deadening causing rust and pitting, at the top it had broken through.
I had the one I cut off of Richards old car so thought it would be better to graft it in.
The it was a simple case of refitting the chassis leg, ensuring that the subframe mounting hole was in the correct position and then plug welding the new chassis leg in place. As per the factory it has been seam welded around the front and subframe bolt tube.
I will dress these welds later. The other side wasn't so easy, at first glance the floor looked ok.
But after cutting off the three times previously welded chassis leg it was apparent that this side would need to be replaced as well.
This is where things got interesting, to do this properly I needed to repair the bulkhead properly as well, so again it was out with the angle grinder on Richards old bulkhead!
A new seam and some minor repairs later....
and I was ready to fit the new chassis leg in the same way as the other side...
At the same time I found that the front OS subframe mount needed repairing
I had one cut off an old car to use as a template for repair patches...
So it was a simple job of cut the old rust out and weld in a new section followed by plug welding a new reinforcer followed by the bolt tube which was checked for alignment. They are now aligned better than the factory!
This marks the end of all of the major welding jobs, all that is left is to go over the car and finalise all of the little jobs and dress the welds. Unfortunately it is this that takes time!