The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted:Thu Apr 02, 2020 10:25 pm 
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Really good work there Matt. That photo of a lovely rear end reminds me I must get some proper oldskool numberplates for my car. Period plates do set a classic off for me, far better than modern plastic stuff. :thumbsup:


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:59 pm 
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Fantastic work Matt, looks really good.

Tahiti Blue is a great colour.

My first Sprint was Tahiti with Black Trim, TVC916R, no longer with us unless it is tucked up in a barn somewhere.

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British Karting Champion 2015, Matt England


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PostPosted:Wed Apr 08, 2020 1:18 pm 
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Quote:
Fantastic work Matt, looks really good.

Tahiti Blue is a great colour.

My first Sprint was Tahiti with Black Trim, TVC916R, no longer with us unless it is tucked up in a barn somewhere.
Cheers Malc. When it finally gets back on the road I'll pop round for a cuppa! Hopefully we will be back in relative normality then.

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Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:01 pm 
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Matt, I've just had a good read of the whole thread, top class work. Looking at your repair panels, I'm not convinced you needed the help of your mobile welder, although it is useful to make swift progress and to learn some tips.

I'm a bit out of touch with what is available in car paint these days. Before 'two pack' and later 'water based' we used to have a choice of cellulose or single pack synthetic. Single pack synthetic was known as 'Nacker lacquer' as it gave a good finish 'off the gun' which avoided the need for cutting and polishing and was ideal for that quick 'blow over' between auction and forecourt. I've known folk to 'wipe a car down with petrol' before masking up and painting, a classic 1970's technique.

I've used 'Nacker Lacquer' to paint under wheel arches in the past. It is quite a 'soft' paint and covers well whilst offering good protection against chipping. I don't know if it is still available, but worth asking one of your paint suppliers. It is a slow drying paint, so tends to flow out quite nicely when brush painted.

I wouldn't use it on the panels though, I think it's nickname says enough.

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PostPosted:Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:10 pm 
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The reason it was called Knacker Laquer was because you were knackered if some one had used it before you got to it! Once it was on, nothing and I mean NOTHING could be painted over it! Every paint medium know to man, then or now, reacts badly to the stuff.

And it was an absolute be-atch to get off again, sandpaper clogs instantly (it's so soft) paint stripper won't touch it. I've seen experienced painters crying whilst they wave a blowtorch over it then scrape the remains away.

I'm not sure if you can still get it, I haven't seen any for years (thank God) Other brands were available, but the one I remember best was correctly named Valflash, from Valspar Paints company.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted:Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:24 pm 
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Another paint i've used in the past and not sure if it's still available was called Sikkens Autofine and was a one pack acrylic, so just the paint and a special thinners to match. It wasn't particularly dangerous to use either, you didn't need a suit of armor like you do with isocyanate 2 pack, nor did you need much heat in the spraybooth, you could apply it in temperatures that would make cellulose "bloom". It went on like cellulose but flowed out much better so you could get a mirror finish straight from the gun. I painted my GT6 with it, Signal Red. Anyone knows that a)red fades if not kept polished and b) I hate polishing cars, but this stuff kept its shade over many years of hard driving with minimal waxing. I must ring Jawel (who supplied it in the 80s) and see if it still exists! Anything that good is probably long gone though!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 14, 2020 11:40 am 
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Thanks for the tips on the paint front Malc and Steve. I've blown in the repaired areas with a mixed aerosol for now. I am happy with the match and the finish is also quite good - even before flatting and polishing. Once the car is back on the road I can decide which way to go, but at least it will be reasonably presentable and solid again at this stage.
Thanks also too the folk who offered advice regarding the fitting of the headlamp panels. I will make sure these are bolted in rather than welded to facilitate access for the future.


Earlier on in the project, I fitted a new lower wing section and also part of a repair panel. The nearside was better in general than the offside, so not as much filling and prep to do this side. The process was the same; filling, sanding, priming, guide coat etc. I managed to get it painted over the Easter holidays as our family trip to Cornwall was obviously cancelled. In general I am happy, although it isn't perfect I think once flatted and polished it should look ok. These rear wings have really made me appreciate the skills of bodyshops!

Once the paint had 'gone off', I refitted the bumper quarters having painted and wax protected the insides. I also fitted the chrome trim at the rear, along with wiring up the rear lights etc. I also prepared and painted the leading edge of the n/s sill and painted the lower part in satin black 'tough' paint.

So, with the rear end and wings now complete I must now start at the front end - it won't go away!

I have had a brief prod over the last weekend and removed the bonnet for improved access. Further areas of rot were exposed on the o/s around the hinge support - I've seen James repair this area before, so will need to revisit his tutorials. Not an easy repair though. It has certainly had some 'repairs' in the hinge area before, so I will need to expose this first... I hope to find it solid and not full of P38!

Here we go...!
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_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 14, 2020 4:10 pm 
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Back end looks great Matt 8) Looks as though you have your work cut out at front :shock: The paint does look well in the photo's. Well done :D

Tony.

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PostPosted:Tue Apr 14, 2020 7:42 pm 
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why not send your poor editor some of these pictures and text. Copy for next issue of Dolly Mix will be light due to no rallies / meets to report......


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 14, 2020 8:13 pm 
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Quote:
why not send your poor editor some of these pictures and text. Copy for next issue of Dolly Mix will be light due to no rallies / meets to report......
Sure thing Steve. I will do so!

_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 28, 2020 5:36 pm 
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Hello all.

I've now moved to the front of the car and am well underway repairing the headlamp mounting area. I've used James' 'project RUK' as my guide here and replicated the amount of metal cut from the front panel in order to get access to the eyebrow panels.

Starting at the nearside, I first removed the fairly rotten headlamp mount panel by drilling out the spotwelds. Before I did this, I took a few measurements etc as a guide to when I come to refit the new ones. I then removed the eyebrow panel, again this didn't really take too much effort - most of it was pulled out by hand!
The wings around the eyebrow panel area are really good though, so I am pleased here. I will spray a liberal coat of wax here after fitting up the replacement panels.

The inner valence was very rotten. I carefully drilled out the original spot welds before removing the remains of the panel and cleaning up the inner wing mounting flange - all is nice condition. There was a hole in the inner wing towards the front (by the valence), so while this was all removed, I cut out the rot and made a repair piece to 'let in'. Otherwise, this area is solid and I could look right into the chassis leg from here - again all looks good.

I also managed to repair a small hole right up at the top of the inner wing, near the flange for the outer wing. The area was very tight and I couldn't really get a grinder in to cut out any of the area, so I ground it back as much as I could with my belt sander (this is the best tool I have had during this project). I was then able to bridge the back of the hole from inside the engine bay with a piece of copper then carefully fill in the hole. This worked well...I was concerned I would end up blowing holes up to the windscreen!

With that complete, I found another series of holes around the bonnet hinge area. Again, I cut a section out and made a repair section. This is an odd section as it has a slight lip on the edge from two pieces of metal sandwiched together.. I presume this is original and not the fact it has a panel over a panel? Anyway, I managed to replicate this, and once cleaned up looks good.

With that complete, I then offered up the club valence repair panel. Using the whole panel this time, I marked up the flange location before drilling a series of holes in the panel in order to plug weld it back on. I seam welded the rest to what was left of the original valence. This all went well.
A coat of epoxy primer over the area and a skim of fibreglass filler over the welds and that is as far as the nearside has got for now.

Moving onto the offside - the inner valence here had been repaired in the past. Earlier on in the project, I had cleaned it up and decided it was 'good enough', but looking at it now, it has obviously just been stuck over the original rusty panel - understandable given the lengths to do this properly. Anyway, it really is rusty and I've come so far now, I decided to replace this side too, so Alun kindly sent me one very promptly by post - thanks Alun!
Again, removal was easy, the majority of which by brute force and ignorance. All very corroded and nasty. Wings are all good though and as I write I am just cleaning this area up to fit the panel. The hinge area is bad, in fact much worse that the nearside, with some repairs required around the hinge support bracket required also. James kindly gave me some advice here, so I will set to carefully carry out this during the next few evenings.


All the best. MC
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_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Sat May 16, 2020 8:54 pm 
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hI folks.
I'm still plodding on with the front end of the car, it seems to be taking longer than I thought!

As mentioned before, the offside area around the bonnet hinge support was really rusty, so needed sorting before I fitted the new eyebrow sections. I gave the area a good clean up with my belt sander so as I could see what required cutting out - most of it.. but I made some templates first out of cardboard while I still had a 'datum' to work to.
I then cut out and repaired the sections one at a time. There were 3 or 4 plates to let in. Once complete I linished down the welds a little and epoxy primed the area. I sealed the welds with a bit of fibreglass filler, before priming again and then a coat of epoxy mastic paint. I am pleased with how the repair came out and from inside the engine bay looking forward, it looks tidy enough.

I was then ready to fit the club eyebrow panels. Copying James' procedure here, I used a few machine bolts and Tiger Seal to fix in place. Both sides were straightforward, however the offside was found to slightly protrude at the wing section, so I had to trim a couple of mm off the back to fit - a shame, but once fitted and sealed up it is fine. I think this may have been as a result of a slight misfit of the repairs mentioned at the beginning.


I have also painted up the headlamp panels ready to be fitted, along with the headlamp bowls, which were in reasonable condition still.

I have decided to use Rivnuts to hold the headlamp panels in place so as they can be removed for cleaning /rust prevention in future. I think I will also use them to hold the spacer bracket to the inner valence, rather than welding it in...it can then be fully painted and protected. I managed to salvage the old brackets from the original panels and will put a couple of Rivnuts in the side to mount the panel to, so as the bolts don't foul the headlamp assembly. I have also made up some small retaining brackets for the far side of the headlamp panels to be mounted to - again with a rivnut to bolt in place.

I have a NOS front valance panel to fit, so thought at this point I would make sure it fits. It isn't a genuine panel and annoyingly although the width to the wings is fine, the sections that are fixed to the inner valance are too short..by about an inch. I drilled out the spotwelds holding these sections to the main panel and measured up and welded in an extension to the leading edge so as it can be re-welded to the panel in due course. Today I welded these in place, having made sure it all lines up ok.

The nearside front wing flange is corroded beyond repair, so I managed to carefully clean up this area and weld in a repair flange today. I think I will probably just tack the valance to the wings in place and seal the centre with Tiger Seal, that way I can paint the two flanges and negate the need for metal on metal contact and future rust issues - although I am open to suggestions!

Hopefully within the next few weeks I can get the panel fitted and painted up. I also need to weld the cut out areas above the eyebrows on the front panel.

Plenty to do, but we are getting closer to completion now!

All the best.

MC
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_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Sun May 17, 2020 9:30 am 
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The job never goes to plan on a Triumph Matt :wink: Lovely bit of welding though :thumbsup: A real shame about the front panel.

Tony.

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PostPosted:Mon Jun 08, 2020 2:18 pm 
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Hello all.

Work on the front end has continued over the last few weeks.

The lower front panel is now fitted. Once I had extended the flange where it mounts to the inner valence all was ok. The new front panel was a good fit otherwise, and I managed to carefully graft it onto what was left of the original panel. Once the welds were ground down and with a skim of filler it is barely noticeable. Before I fitted the panel, I painted the inside with Epoxy mastic.
The panel to wing joint was sealed with Tiger Seal and also a few dabs of weld to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. I am hopeful that this approach will prevent rust in future as the two sections remain both painted.

With it all fitted, I was then able to weld back in place the cut outs on the upper panel which were cut out to access the eyebrows. This all went back ok and I took my time to avoid to much heat build- up in this area.

Then it was a case of cleaning everything up and removing some surface rust from the front panel before epoxy primer, filler, primer, guide coat...and so on, before a coat of blue topcoat last weekend. It has come out really well and should look good once flatted and painted.

I have now started to refit the headlamp panels using the rivnuts (very easy), grille etc which is really rewarding! A few repairs to the indicator and headlight wiring are required as there are some poor previous repairs here.

I am pondering on using rivnuts again for the numberplate rather than just screwing into the panel with self-tappers. I have tried to look for some plastic plugs to fit - bit like the indicator retainers - anyone used anything else to good effect?

So, next few days will be continue to refit. I can then start to put the interior back in which will be a nice change from all the metalwork.

BFN.
MC
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_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted:Mon Jun 08, 2020 7:25 pm 
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Location:Maidstone
You’ve made a lovely job of that Matt, well done you. I have read with interest about your front panel work because my car seems to be a bit crusty in the same areas. Not too far gone just yet, but going anyway. Should I have a go myself coz you’ve made it look like a breeze - which of course it’s not!! I may tackle it one day.........

I have often thought that Tahiti blue is my favourite Sprint colour ( an uncle of mine had a Tahiti Sprint back in the day ) and now I’m convinced it is. :thumbsup:


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